ML GSX338 V2 P Sport Hydro 1st Build

[mojoracer]

Awesome build, thanks for sharing.

In the bold, I don't completely understand. I know the no trip piece but I'm confused where you add lots of epoxy to the sponson sheer plate???

Where the top edge of the no trip side sheeting meets the sheer. I want to soak as much epoxy in this seam as possible. Once this dries, much of the no trip top edge sheeting gets ground away shaping the rounded section. The attached photo shows this joint well.
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[mojoracer]

Inner sponson bottom skin installation:
The long narrow stips are mounted to the frames. I pre bent these by hand. No heat was required, just marked area with pencil and tweaked the wood. I applied epoxy to the stringers and frames under these skins. I used a screw to retain the front and a couple of clamps held the rest.
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[mojoracer]

Shingling the sponsons:

There are 3 flat pieces that cover the bottom of the sponsons. For the rear ride pad, I varied from the kit parts with a carbon fiber piece. Same dimensions as the supplied wood part. Install the rear ride pad 1st. The front of the pad butts up to the notch or "Step". The 2nd photo shows the step. The rear will hang over the back of the rear sponson bulkhead about 1/8th of an inch. Glue with epoxy. Make sure this ride pad fits perfectly flat to the frames!
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[mojoracer]

The center or 2nd "shingle goes on next. This part is the same dimension as rears. I am using the kits plywood piece for this. Apply the same as the rear. Butt the front edge up to the notch. The rear will hang over the pad behind it. This gives the shingled roof look. The front piece is a bit long. I fitted the part to the sponson and marked it to the tip of the sponson sheer. I cut off some of the excess material before I installed it. Use plenty of epoxy around the tip. I put a screw in the tip to hold this end down tightly to the sponson sheer plate. This are will be ground and shaped after the epoxy dries.

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[ray schrauwen]

Where the top edge of the no trip side sheeting meets the sheer. I want to soak as much epoxy in this seam as possible. Once this dries, much of the no trip top edge sheeting gets ground away shaping the rounded section. The attached photo shows this joint well.
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Gotcha! Thanks. I added extra wood on the inside and sanded it down to the profile on my GRX310. I'm going to add a few piece of FG cloth etc.. like you have shown.

Awesome Bob. I can now run over more of your boats with confidence yours will survive, mine, well, time will tell....lol...

[ray schrauwen]

......oops

[mojoracer]

Gotcha! Thanks. I added extra wood on the inside and sanded it down to the profile on my GRX310. I'm going to add a few piece of FG cloth etc.. like you have shown.

Awesome Bob. I can now run over more of your boats with confidence yours will survive, mine, well, time will tell....lol...

My Q sport you ran over at 70MPH survived pretty well due to the cloth on the joints and energy absorbing foam packed inside the frames.

[ray schrauwen]

Yeah, I know

I've only ran that boat twice since then I think. Looking forward to running it soon.

I was sure I cut it in half but you Mc.Giver'ed it back for the next heat when I think I might have cooked a rotor.

Anyway, just shows how well you build a boat! ...and how bad I drive at 70mph. Maybe Q isn't my bag, lol...

[Shooter]

Looks good, but will it survive the Wednesday night grind line?

[mojoracer]

Looks good, but will it survive the Wednesday night grind line?

Hence the high level of internal reinforcement!

[mojoracer]

Finishing up the sponson bottoms:
Used the GP sanding block with some fresh 80 grit self adhesive sand paper. Ground the inside edge of the ride pads and bottom sheeting flush. I also finish sanded the back of the sponsons to clean up some sloppy epoxy. Use a scrap piece of wood the right width to get into this tight spot. Stick on some sand paper and you have a nice way to sand in these tight spots. Sand the outer edge of the bottom sheeting flush to the no trip sides. Fresh 80 grit made quick work on this step. Finally, shape the front of the sponson tips bottom side.
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[mojoracer]

I applied cloth strips to all the bottom sheeting to stringer and bulkhead joints. After the strips were in place I put brushed another coat of West System over them. To make sure the top of the sponson side sheeting stays put, I reinforced the inside of the joint. Using a bent epoxy brush, coat with epoxy. I then packed some strips of fiberglass cloth up into this tight spot.

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[cybercrxt]

Cowlings are boxed up, and ship out today Bob. Build sure is looking good! Mike

[mojoracer]

Installed some 1/4" plywood that the servo and motor mounts will sit on. I put some more cloth tabs on the center section joints. I also added some balsa and 1/4" sticks to stiffen the bottom pan where the batteries will mount. The balsa was capped with 1/64th plywood to level things out. These items will tie into the stringers and make the bottom pan stiffer. I also scored a NEU 1521 motor on the forum today to power this boat.

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[mojoracer]

Deck it out:
Installed the top deck. Pretty easy process. Coat your top edges with epoxy and place clamps and some weights. I used a couple of 6S 6000mAh bricks and a big TP Power motor! The part laid down quite nicely.74.jpg75.jpg