37" TFL Genesis single motor SAW build

[fweasel]

Powerplant arrived today! Now I can get back to this project and install the motor mount and stuffing tube.

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[fweasel]

Installed the hatch bolts and neoprene water seal tonight. I love projects that don't require epoxy to cure.

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[vinnyp]

Ryan,
I like your hatch bolt system. Similar to what I did for my MTR. However, although I thought of using a piece of carbon fiber to screw the hatch screw to, I couldn't figure out a way to secure the nut to the carbon fiber, other than epoxy. What method did you come up with? That was the reason I went with aluminum tabs, then drilled and tapped them. BTW, after a leak check, my gasket leaked. Still gonna have to tape the hatch... I have posted these before, here they are again as a reminder.

[kfxguy]

Ryan,
I like your hatch bolt system. Similar to what I did for my MTR. However, although I thought of using a piece of carbon fiber to screw the hatch screw to, I couldn't figure out a way to secure the nut to the carbon fiber, other than epoxy. What method did you come up with? That was the reason I went with aluminum tabs, then drilled and tapped them. BTW, after a leak check, my gasket leaked. Still gonna have to tape the hatch... I have posted these before, here they are again as a reminder.

He got the stuff from me. It’s steel flat nuts and he epoxy on I’m sure. You need to make sure where you position the hatch bolts that it will push down on the whole hatch evenly. If not, it will leak. The way I figure it out is to press down in the areas that I think I’m going to put them and then pick the hatch up and look at the witness marks in the foam. You get it close like that. Install the bolts. Screw then down. Look at the marks now and the seal. Sand the areas that contact more till it evens out. I have many boats I’ve done this that need no tape. It does work if you install it correctly (no offense meant in any way). I had to figure all these things out but I don’t mind passing what I’ve learned along.

[vinnyp]

He got the stuff from me. It’s steel flat nuts and he epoxy on I’m sure. You need to make sure where you position the hatch bolts that it will push down on the whole hatch evenly. If not, it will leak. The way I figure it out is to press down in the areas that I think I’m going to put them and then pick the hatch up and look at the witness marks in the foam. You get it close like that. Install the bolts. Screw then down. Look at the marks now and the seal. Sand the areas that contact more till it evens out. I have many boats I’ve done this that need no tape. It does work if you install it correctly (no offense meant in any way). I had to figure all these things out but I don’t mind passing what I’ve learned along.

Thanks Travis. Never thought of checking for high spots and sanding them down. I will have to try that.

[fweasel]

Behind schedule, but making progress recently. Installed a sleeve for the stuffing tube and added two more hatch screws at the midway point of the hatch. Glued in the motor mount. Glued in the servo mount and setup the pushrod linkage and servo. Installed the motor and aligned the driveline.

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[fweasel]

Converted the ESC from a parallel battery setup to series and used larger gauge wire so I can run 6S and 8S setups

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[srislash]

Looking good buddy.

[fweasel]

Looking good buddy.

Thanks, I wish it was in the water already. Plumbing, electrical, and flotation to go. Think I'm done with epoxy.

[fweasel]

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Cut out the main flotation pieces. Will fill in around the batteries and rear deck after everything else is installed.

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Picked up a Turnigy 40V BEC. Needed to be waterproofed, so off came the shrink wrap.

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Cut off the 5V/6V jumper pins and used one of the pieces to solder a permanent bridge between the 6V pins. Covered the entire circuit board front and back with epoxy.

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Glued in the carbon battery trays with black aquarium silicone. Funny, the boat is looks so much closer to being done with those tings in place.

[fweasel]

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Wanted to figure out a waterprrof solution for the steering push rod that didn't involve a rubber bellow on the outside of the hull. Because of the epoxy pour, the transome wall is very thick and I wasn't able to slip one in like a RTR boat anyways. You can see the old push rod hole that was filled with epoxy off to the right. It was in a bad location when using the offset rudder mount and had to go. I might drill that out and use it as a drain with a rubber Aeromarine plug

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Cut a piece of 7/16 brass tube, fit a bellow over the end and zip tied it in place. Drilled out the existing hole on the back of the boat with a 7/16" drill bit for a super snug fit on the brass tube.

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Slid the tube and bellow into the hole from the inside of the hull

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exposed a small lip of the brass tube to make dripping CA into the gap easier without the fear of any getting inside the tube. Other than the paint work that needs to be cleaned up in that area, the rudder mount and pushrod is all very tidy and neat. No deflection on the push rod, no awkward bends, much better.

[srislash]

Nice work Ryan.

[fweasel]

Nice work Ryan.

Thanks. Really cutting this close. All of the pretty stuff is going to have to wait until next winter.

[srislash]

Thanks. Really cutting this close. All of the pretty stuff is going to have to wait until next winter.

Doesn’t have to be pretty to win a record.

[fweasel]

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Cut down the rudder about 3/4", filled the cooling hole with epoxy, reprofiled the bottom, and sharpened the leading edge

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De-pinned the ESC 12V wire becauea I'm using a 6V BEC. Always better to de-pin vs. cutting the wire. Makes things much easier when you need to rebind.

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polished the flex cable

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all in one piece, ready for the maiden