HPR C5009 Bulletproof Mystic

[fweasel]

Now that the paint and bodywork is done, I'm on the clock to finish the rest of the repairs before august. I sourced all of the replacements parts I needed to rebuild my now discontinued MBP click drives. Unfortunately, the body I received had bronze bushings pressed in instead of ball bearings. The bearings popped out without much effort on the old drive, but the bushings in the new drive were incredibly stubborn. There's wasn't enough of a shoulder to tap them out from the inside. Heat was not helping either. I ended up clamping them in the mill and bored out the bushings leaving only a sliver of material on the outside circumference. About 5mm into it, they let loose and spun out. Rough afternoon for such a minor project. New bearings are on order from Boca. For the record, they're 6x10x3, 4 in total, and the outer bearing is flanged.

IMG_20200829_124043.jpg 20210422_224938356.jpg 20210422_232609260.jpg 20210423_004451580.jpg 20210423_004934339.jpg

[fweasel]

Last years shootout crash rebuild is complete. I stripped the hull down before I left Missouri last summer in about an hour. Turns out, it took a lot longer than that to put it back together after the hull was fixed. Ran it for the first time last weekend on small props and everything checked out. Leaks a small amount of water, but much less than it did before. Temps were hotter than I'd like to see on small props, but the warm lake water wasn't helping that. I decided to try two MHZ water pumps, but when they arrived, they were bigger and heavier than I anticipated. That won't work. I'm going to try some TCS pumps designed for micro-dosing applications. They're much smaller, flow quite a bit, but are more expensive. Hope I can get them delivered before the shootout next month. The plumbing will be an easy modification and I already have a receiver controlled switch to power them off the LiFe receiver pack.

PXL_20210712_004752806.jpg PXL_20210717_163820717.jpg PXL_20210717_163923152.jpg PXL_20210725_160321428.jpg Shootout2020_George.jpg

[vvviivvv]

Glad to see it back together,

Did you manage to order some TCS pumps? I tried to order for my C5008 build but never heard back... Which model did you get?

also was concerned about when trucking on as they shouldn't be ran dry (also have a switched channel I was going to use them with) but what happens when you start going high speeds and water is forced in?

Maybe ill try and get another response as would be nice for the C5008.

[fweasel]

Glad to see it back together,

Did you manage to order some TCS pumps? I tried to order for my C5008 build but never heard back... Which model did you get?

also was concerned about when trucking on as they shouldn't be ran dry (also have a switched channel I was going to use them with) but what happens when you start going high speeds and water is forced in?

Maybe ill try and get another response as would be nice for the C5008.

TCS is a UK company, so I'm surprised you didn't get a response. I ordered them from a US based distributor on the east coast. Per Tyler Garrard's recommendation, I'm using the M200 pumps. The exact model I got was the M200S-W-V. The W is the waterproof version and the only version they had a pair of in stock at the time. V was for the standard Viton seal. These are impeller based pumps, not gear driven, so pressure from the water inlets at speed can still blow though. I'll be switching them with the 3rd channel on my receiver and the plan is to drop the boat in, make a quick little run to the starting position to prime the water lines, then activate the pumps. Hopefully I'll have time to test this all out at home before the shootout.

[fweasel]

The new TCS pumps have arrived. Turns out, they're just a hair smaller than the gear pumps I bought from MHZ. Should be an easy install once I get the wiring harness built and epoxy the electronics.

PXL_20210729_202146478.jpg

[fweasel]

Finished up the cooling pump setup. The boat primes the pumps after a quick spin and the remote operated relay works perfectly. This will be a big help with the incredibly warm water at the mini shootout.

PXL_20210731_153701314.jpg PXL_20210731_154640593.jpg PXL_20210731_195321685.jpg PXL_20210731_195416711.jpg PXL_20210801_160159758.jpg


Video of the initial pool test

[fweasel]

Decided to add a last minute carbon bulkhead support under the front deck to slow the progression of two hairline gelcoat cracks that started at the forward hatch lock holes. Epoxied it from the front and used CF cloth tape on the rear face.

PXL_20210808_170310586.jpg

[plinse]

Careful with such local reinforcements.
I know they are often made and they make the hull stiffer but as long as it bends smoothly it does not break
This actually adds local stiffness which results in even higher local forces. I have seen boats with such reinforcements to crack the deck locally almost like a stamping tool

If you really want a big boat to be strong your only chance for the long term is to fill it with foam.
Either use 2K construction foam to fill the bow (and perhaps some thin carbon like 0,5mm to hide it but this will bend and prevent local stress) or take some time and cut parts from foam that fit slightly pressing them inside. This supports the complete hull and not the small local spot.
This is what I did in my HPR C5009.

A good example for local stress was my complete motor mount with 2 motors and rear supports on each motor to break out of my Baby Raptor after 2 seasons of really pushing the boat hard. The stiff carbon bulkhead did not move while the hull wanted to move. Luckily the cracks were just in the glue, not in the hull.

Best Regards, Eike

[liteumup69]

Water jacket

Okay, water jackets back from the machine shop and just wrapped them in carbon. Waiting for the epoxy to dry. Now I'm going to get a tweezers and pick out the splinters from my hand.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]164745[/ATTACH]
My receiver Life battery and power switch were delivered this week. I water proofed the switch as well as the ESC wire extension and Y harness. I need to start filling voids with foam and then find mounting positions for the electronics under the rear deck.

I know it?s a older thread but who made your water jackets? I need a pair made

[fweasel]

I make them myself. I used to send the jackets out to have the fins machined off, but now I do it on my own lathe. Once you have a smooth, recessed surface, you can attach the thin strip of carbon fiber veneer and epoxy it in place. A friend of mine didn't want all of the hassle of the real stuff, so he just wrapped his in CF vinyl.

[liteumup69]

Do you have any pictures of just the cooling cans? I?m looking for a set, no one makes them for Neu 2220?s

[fweasel]

Do you have any pictures of just the cooling cans? I?m looking for a set, no one makes them for Neu 2220?s

The original jackets I sent out to be machined were standard 40mm Chinese made jackets paired with 40mm TP motors. The machine work was for cosmetic purposes only. The second set were made by MBP for 44mm Lehner motors and required no modifications. They are no longer produced unfortunately.

[BUMBLESPECIMOODA]

TCS is a UK company, so I'm surprised you didn't get a response. I ordered them from a US based distributor on the east coast. Per Tyler Garrard's recommendation, I'm using the M200 pumps. The exact model I got was the M200S-W-V.

Do you have contact information, for the US based distributor?

[fweasel]

Do you have contact information, for the US based distributor?

I believe the only US distributor was Servoflo

[vvviivvv]

Unsure why i never got a response, it turns out the owner of TCS is into RC boats and runs in our offshore RC boating class in the UK.

Turns out i haven't needed the pumps yet for the C5008, and my other 3 saw boats already have pumps fitted.