Cheetah build (cat problem solved)

[Brothers 1718]

Never had a lick of trouble with them, I own 3. The LVC comes on without delay, I disabled it and run a timer... They are good work horses!

I guess the 220sf is back on the shopping list.

[Brothers 1718]

Your current speed (question#3) is more important, what is too slow for you? Actually it is a good thing that you ran such a small prop, ten minutes with a high draw setup will burn things up. Going to a SF220 won’t help with that issue.

Ten minutes of “straight” runs can be very rough on the ESC and motor because each run includes strong acceleration. This is what really draws the amps, once on step and at speed the amp draw drops substantially. We know you are new to this, we are trying to help, not to discourage you. There is plenty to learn, pick you references carefully.

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I shall take what you said on board impart your knowledge. Currently living noob life . I need to check the temps and speed when I run tommorow I don't have a GPS yet but I can figure something out. Money is kinda tight.

[Brothers 1718]

Your current speed (question#3) is more important, what is too slow for you? Actually it is a good thing that you ran such a small prop, ten minutes with a high draw setup will burn things up. Going to a SF220 won’t help with that issue.

Ten minutes of “straight” runs can be very rough on the ESC and motor because each run includes strong acceleration. This is what really draws the amps, once on step and at speed the amp draw drops substantially. We know you are new to this, we are trying to help, not to discourage you. There is plenty to learn, pick you references carefully.

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I shall take what you said on board impart your knowledge. Currently living noob life . I need to check the temps and speed when I run tommorow I don't have a GPS yet but I can figure something out. Money is kinda tight.

[CraigP]

On the LVC, most of these problems are caused by excessive voltage drop from the batts to the ESC. This can include too small of wire, weak solder joints, too small or too many electrical connectors. Given the wide range of construction techniques and beliefs, I’m amazed that any ESC based LVC’s actually work! The timer is nearly fool proof. Your smart phone probably has a timer on it....

[Steven Vaccaro]

But disabling the bec will can also lead to failure. Excessive low voltage, over a run can cause issues. I like to lower mine to 3v for racing and 3.2v for sport use.

[Brothers 1718]

I was just about to clear coat my boat this week so I could post all the pictures from the build one time when a little miss hap happened and. This was the result. A 18 inch crack running on the seem all the way through the fiberglass but not through the carbon Kevlar. How do I fix it fiberglass on the inside and the outside. Or just let the boat sit until I have the money to get carbon fiber.

[CraigP]

But disabling the bec will can also lead to failure. Excessive low voltage, over a run can cause issues. I like to lower mine to 3v for racing and 3.2v for sport use.

True only if the LVC is disabled AND you ignore/don’t use a timer. I leave about 30 seconds extra (bring in early) so I avoid issues. Timers only work with known setups. Use your LVC on new setups or batts, until you get familiar with it.

[kfxguy]

A 4092 is not too big of a motor. It’s actually the size I prefer. Anyone who’s ever owned a cheetah knows that it’s a big, wide hull that likes to run wet and takes power to push. I’ve built several. Personally I’d skip the sf220 for this hull and use a sf300. This hull can be an amp hog if you can’t get it to run loose with out blowing over. A abc 1915-17-45 works well on this hull. The motor you have is just fine. Upgrade the esc and prop. That setup will go about 70 on 6s if you have everything dialed in.