My first construction, mystic 114

[golfito]

Thank you so much guys!
As soon as I have something resolved I will send photos. That way it's easier to communicate.
Greetings.

[golfito]

[golfito]

15318013_1619236335044768_3192385024745330231_n.jpg15350509_1619236395044762_7606090963455740324_n.jpg15232160_1619236435044758_8500386007818641836_n.jpg15241344_1619236171711451_5995041915597915364_n.jpg15349772_1621190894849312_706249579406781287_n.jpg

[golfito]

15401064_1621190938182641_1184720684349388973_n.jpg15356685_1621191044849297_8718253805815053453_n.jpg

[golfito]

Today I finish the rudder with my modifications. I will start with the stingers shafts and the motor mount.

20161209_185508.jpg20161209_185524.jpg20161209_190005.jpg20161209_191213.jpg

20161209_185508.jpg20161209_185751.jpg

[TheShaddix]

The carbon looks way too wet and bumpy, that happens when you pour epoxy onto the surface, then lay the cloth down, but don't press/roll it in so it flattens, so now you have epoxy puddles under and over the surface. A foam brush/roller would have solved the problem to get the excess epoxy off of it. I would definitely sand that down (60-80 grit) and do another inlay on top. Also, what is the purpose of those fake hydraulics on the rudder if they are just for the look, but the main, functional ones are very obvious and not concealed like on some boats. I don't get the point of this redundancy, should be either one or the other.

My advice would be for you to focus on refining all the parts you make because clearly you do great work on some things like that rudder bracket. It could use additional sanding and polishing to get the scratches off. I'd also add some plugs where those holes are on the hull for the steering cables to dress it up.

[golfito]

Thank you very much for the advice and recommendations.
I will try to correct the appearance of carbon. It was not a good job. Lack of experience and anxiety... haha. Also had a base with many potholes and balloons.
With the rudder could not make it work correctly. The mechanism I didn't. Too much friction was generated in wires when passing by the arms. Maybe could pass the rubber bellows inside...
The recommendations are well received.

[boredom.is.me]

Loosen the pushrod holder on the servo arm. The nut only needs to be tight enough to stop it from shaking.

https://vimeo.com/195183770

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[TheShaddix]

Oh, that is true, it looks like his linkage is also too tight at the rudder, you can see the couplers are not rotating along with the wire.

As for the surface having defects, you should always block-sand it first before any carbon work. Those small bumps are super easy to remove. Now you can still do that, just make a wooden block and wrap some 40-60 grit around that, it should flatten your inlay nicely. Put a vacuum hose there so you don't get any carbon dust.

[golfito]

Can I consult?
I'm going to use 6s lipos and 447 R / L.
I have the V2 and V3 versions of T180 turnigy. I'm going to put a bank of capacitors. Which version would be more appropriate?
The motors are tp 4050 1700kv or I also have a pair of leopard 4082 2200kv. But I go for the tp 1700kv.
Thank you!.20161231_172612.jpg20161231_174616.jpg20161231_174343.jpg

[TheShaddix]

what speed are you aiming for? Those TP 1700kv will give you around 75-80 mph and be a safe setup. The leopards 2200kv are good for 95+ mph, but not safe for continuous running. I run 2200kv sss motors but I use swordfish 240A esc's. I blew up multiple 180A turnigy/seaking esc's running that setup. It's just unstable unless all you plan to do is a few runs back and forth full throttle and bring it back.

[golfito]

Thank you very much for helping.
Think about using the 1700kv for fear of burning the T180. I also estimate that my boat will be considerably heavier than other mystic ones.
I had been advised to use the 2200kv when buying the hull. But I was afraid that the T180s would not resist.
75mph is something like 120km / h ... is more than I could drive ... lol.
I thought that the T180 V2 could handle the configuration better (so I read in the forum), but others said that V3 is superior. So I do not know which one to choose.
I have a pair of flycolor 150a too, but I do not dare use them in this boat. At least until you try it on another boat.

[golfito]

Also going through the forum, I find that the set of TX RX is not viable. Reading I find that my old DX3S (DSM) and my rx sr3000 / sr3500 / sr3300t are not advisable for navigation ...
Plan B, I will use a turnigy gtx3 which is a renamed gt3b flysky. From what I saw, if they're using it.
And lipos ... for now turnigy or zippy. It is very difficult to find good lipo material in Argentina. Even more with the new regulation of air shipments.

[TheShaddix]

Have you tried looking on hobbyking for lipos? I recommend those graphene ones. Just be sure to always use 50+ C rating.

[golfito]

It does not send more Hobbyking lipos, at least so it shows the screen to me of the web.
And there are no good quality lipos, or high raiting "C". I have a pair of zippy compact 6s 5000 40c. I am dealing with an importer to get something better.