Club racer Q Mono.

[Peter A]

So a couple of weeks ago I decided I had enough of running a petrol boat, so I sold it. I am just going to run all electrics again, so a new club racer to compete with the gassers on club days. After contemplating which way to go, Voracity, DF 45 mk11, Osprey or even an MHZ Racemaster, I remembered one of the guys in our club had a hull that should be suitable.
It is 42" long which should suit the racewater you get when running with gassers, the sort that is a tad too rough for the Pursuit.

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The first job was to remove the rails. The hull looks to be a kevlar/mylar layup and the rails and transom are the same material and foam cored. I'll leave the cored transom as it is nice and strong the way it is. Next was to re-glue the hull deck join where it wasn't joined well. Today I have glassed the join inside.

[Peter A]

A box of parts from OSE.

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Power for this is a Leo 4092 1390kv 2Y. I will use a T-180 V2 esc and set up for 6s 1P for general heat racing with 2P for when I really want to make a point or 10 lap races. Speedmaster stinger and rudder, trim tabs, turn fins and battery tray from RCBB. Stinger will be set up with a wet well for height adjustment.

[785boats]

Looks like a good, solid, reliable setup. Should run really well in racewater.

[Darin Jordan]

42" is 2" too long for a legal NAMBA Q-Mono.

40" max... IF being NAMBA or IMPBA legal matters...

[Peter A]

Thanks Paul.
Appreciate that Darin, but I'm in NZ and we have a 34" minimum length so no issues there. Not so many choices down under, and they cost a packet more for freight. I picked this hull up for $200 NZD. About $150 USD, which is about what it would have cost to get a hull here from the US or Europe. So overall not too bad a deal. I still have to make a hatch, but that is ticking in my head and I may start on that tomorrow.

Carbon inlay this morning. And a bit of support underneath to straighten out the humps and hollows. It will be a bit less work to blueprint the bottom later on.

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[Darin Jordan]

Thanks Paul.
Appreciate that Darin, but I'm in NZ and we have a 34" minimum length so no issues there. Not so many choices down under, and they cost a packet more for freight. I picked this hull up for $200 NZD. About $150 USD, which is about what it would have cost to get a hull here from the US or Europe. So overall not too bad a deal. I still have to make a hatch, but that is ticking in my head and I may start on that tomorrow.

Carbon inlay this morning. And a bit of support underneath to straighten out the humps and hollows. It will be a bit less work to blueprint the bottom later on.

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Looks excellent! Git-R-Done!

[Peter A]

Workin' on it. Good thing that work is a bit quiet, it's giving me some extra time to do these bits. Being winter here the shed is cold to work in at night, especially compared to a nice warm fire. Spring is only a week and a half away though!

[Peter A]

Made a hatch over the weekend. Drilled the transom today.

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[Peter A]

Motor mount and steering servo mounts fitted and glued as well as the flood tube. A couple of carbon tubes glued in also for some extra strength and to stiffen the hull a bit more.

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[785boats]

Looking good Pete.
The main reason I add carbon rods its to strengthen the bond between the motor mount & battery tray to the hull.
Looks fine on the tray, but they aren't touching the motor mount.
Can you epoxy something in between the rod & the mounts? Another piece of rod perhaps?
It will make a big difference to the strength of the mount.

[fweasel]

Cool build. Can you post a picture of the transom from the rear showing where the prop shaft and what looks to be a wet well exit the hull? Just curious for my own project I'm working on.

[Peter A]

Paul, I have extra epoxy glue through between the rods and mounts, you just cannot see it due to it being quite clear. I discovered a neat trick, if you warm it up, by putting the boat on a heater or in the sun the epoxy glue goes clear.

fweasel, here is a pic of the transom. I have had to fill holes that were there when I got the hull. It was drilled for speedmaster hardware, but not the same parts I am using. Still a bit of finishing work to be done here yet. I am nearly up to the sanding and filling stage before paint.

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[785boats]

Peter A
Paul, I have extra epoxy glue through between the rods and mounts, you just cannot see it due to it being quite clear. I discovered a neat trick, if you warm it up, by putting the boat on a heater or in the sun the epoxy glue goes clear.

Aaah! it's all clear now.

[Beaux]

Nice looking boat, good work .

[Peter A]

Well it has been a few weeks but it is finally painted. Time to fit it out, will work on this over the next few days, club day is in a couple of weeks.

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