Johnny's HK Flowmaster
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Use a foam roller to roll off the excess resin and avoid pooling. Also, you have to just keep pressing it in while it's curing. This is a wet layup method so don't expect it to conform to the boat by itself without a vacuum bag. Just need to babysit it till it's fully cured, then touch it up with some quick 5 min resin. It gets better with practice and you'll develop your own system. As far as my friend's setup, it's reliable because the props are the right size, they sit mostly out of the water, and the boat has no drag at full speed. You usually burn things up when you start propping up and going from 42 to 47mm prop or higher if your esc can't handle it.Comment
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Thanks for the tips, but this is my first and last attempt at this stuff. The next hull will be purchased with all the cf work done by a professional...and that may be happening soon. I just got my tax return the other day. Do you usually do one or two layer inlays?Comment
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I do a single layer but I use 12k carbon which is 4 times the thickness of the normal 3k, so technically, 4 layers of inlay. The downside is it's more stubborn to conform, takes way more resin, costs a bit more, and harder to cut. But that's what I did on the other flowmaster.Comment
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I'll use spray glue on boats that have complex curves. Some people don't like to use spray glue but I've never had an issue with it and I know of a very well respected boat builder that holds many records and he uses it. If it's good enough for him, it's good enough for me. The main thing is just use it sparingly, just enough to make it conform. The epoxy will "override" the spray glue.32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) wasComment
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