37"Daytona:Bullitproof

[srislash]

Well guys I've finally decided to get on with my first Dihedral design hull. So here is what I have:
37" FC hull
2 Trackstar 4074 2560kv motors
110 stingers(to be shortened)
MBP collets and 150 R&L cables
A customized mini rudder from OSE
Savox 'shorty' servo
And a pair of SK 120 ESC's(which I am still undecided if adequate)

[dmitry100]

Since when did you get yourself some MBP Clicks on your Fantasm, shawn? :) How do you like them?

Do they stand up to SAW ok? I heard they can sometimes move (left/right) etc after a crash...

[srislash]

Those have been on there since I built it Dmitry. They have been great but mine are a little stiff to tune as I got a little loose with epoxy back there when I built it.

[iridebikes247]

Looks like a fun build btw what cell count you thinking?

[srislash]

Looks like a fun build btw what cell count you thinking?

Thinking 4s Mike but I have 5's as well, lol. Y'know, sport!

[kfxguy]

5s is gonna haul. The 120's may do it but you might be cutting it close. We like overhead, just in case. Pair of seaking 180's would be ideal. I know you've got plenty of props to play with so it would be safer. This should be a very fast but budget build. Can't wait to see it done!

[srislash]

I have a few Castle 200/240's here Travis, The garage sale air versions. I have been thinking of tuning a couple up for this. Once running maybe the 120's will be fine.

[srislash]

As per my usual I installed a piece of 1 1/4"x 3/8" aluminum stock into the transom overhang. This I later drill and thread for the rudder standoff. I layed a piece of CF cloth across the transom section first then the aluminum and then another strip of CF wrapped right around the seam up to where my stingers mount.



I also like to make stringer/deck braces for additional strength. I have found it really helps to stiffen it up and prevents the deck from collapsing if the boat takes a dive.

[ls1fst98]

Looks good as usual! Makes me want to finish my daytona I started like 3 years ago hahah

[srislash]

You were one of the reasons I bought one.

[srislash]

I got my stringers in, inlay and transom doublers in, and then drilled for my stingers and installed my motor mounts. All this done within a couple day window so all was mounted 'green'.

[srislash]

And here are the mounts setting up and after.



I am going with .150 flexes on this one so I installed a 3/16 flex thru the stinger and into a collett attached to the motor to maintain a good natural bend.

[srislash]

So this is my rudder which has been made from two OSE rudders. It is as close to 'scale' as I could come up with. I will most likely powder coat it later before final assembly.



Now for some thoughts from you guys perhaps; when I had these stingers on my Shocker I found they would get tweaked easily. So I have been thinking if I shorten them it would lessen the torsional side forces that tweaked them before. Does anyone know if the bushings just push through the tube wherever or is there a set ridge within? I seem to have up to 20mm or 5/8" to cut off of them

[kfxguy]

Looking good! I need some schooling on how to get my epoxy to lay correctly and not run. What epoxy are you using?

[iridebikes247]

I run the tfl stingers on my explorer I believe 108mm long. My boat was riding pretty wet so I cut off 18mm of stinger.

I ordered a bunch of bushings from OSE but after cutting it off I found I left the bushings intact, so just popped them out of the piece I cut off and pressed them into the drive tube. To answer your question I don't think they have a ring or at least the ones I cut down didn't, I cracked two drive posts from driving hard in choppy water since cutting down, much more durable.

The daytona will likely air out better with short drives