EKOS C1 Component Recommendations

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  • Davey80
    Member
    • Jan 2014
    • 85

    #1

    EKOS C1 Component Recommendations

    Hey guys, i'm prepping for my first boat build which will be a Venom EKOS. I'm just getting going with the purchasing process and am looking for the very best components available. I'm not trying to save any dinero on this build..going big!

    Any recommendations on the question marked parts would be greatly appreciated

    1) Hull & Hatch - Venom EKOS C1
    2) 2 X Leopard Motors /?(Looking for 60mph)
    3) 2 X Props /?
    4) Receiver / Spektrum SR310
    5) Battery & RX Tray / Venom
    6) Boat Stand / Venom
    7) Control Rod & Boot / Venom
    8) 2 X Drive Dogs /?
    9) 2 X Drive Shaft Housings /?
    10) 2 X Drive Tubes /?
    11) ESC & ESC Mount /?
    12) Drive Shafts /?
    13) Servo Mount /?
    14) Dual Pickup Rudder /?
    15) Couplers /?
    16) 2 X Struts /?
    17) 2 X Motor Mounts /?
    18) Carbon Fiber Inlay Sheet /Brand?
  • TheShaddix
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2013
    • 759

    #2
    2) The motor choice will depend on your batteries, best leopards are the 4082, for 5s/6s go with 2000kv, you'll hit around 80-85 mph on 6s and about 65-70 on 5s. If you want to go slower, get 1800kv or 1600kv. Also depends on your esc choice.
    3) Good props to start off with are the octura x442
    4) for receiver get the new dsmr receiver from spektrum
    5) for boat stand don't waste your money, build one from pvc with padded foam
    6) for rx battery try the turnigy life battery.
    8) i like the kintec tapered stainless drive dogs, they taper down to the size of your prop hub and look very nice
    9) for stingers whatever you choose do not get the ones that don't have supports
    10) i use 1/4 stuffing tubes without liners, so far so good (w/ .187 cables). As long as you grease/oil them regularly, you won't have issues and it'll run super smooth even without liner, plus you can add oilers for easier maintenance.
    15) for collets/couplers, i know they are pricy, but the best ones are the german mbp ones (sold here), no wobble, durable, great look, never slip or shift

    The ones I didn't mention are all up to your personal preference like the servo mount, etc. They are all the same. For carbon fiber, are you looking for finished sheets or just fabric?

    Comment

    • Davey80
      Member
      • Jan 2014
      • 85

      #3
      Shaddix thanks for the info. Good stuff, i will definitely be able to use. Couple follow on questions - Leopard breaks down the motor specs even further than the kv when referring to the "y" and "d" ratings. In layman's terms, what difference does that make in performance and which one should i consider? I'll probably go with the 4082 2000kv like you recommended, on dual Maxamps 3S batts in series.

      Secondly, you mentioned the Turnigy life batt for the rx. Just want to clarify that..do you mean go with that pack for powering the entire boat or just the rx?

      Lastly, for #15, i'm looking for the fabric that so many of you guys use to epoxy into the hull.

      Thanks!

      Comment

      • TheShaddix
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2013
        • 759

        #4
        For a second there I thought you were doing a twin motor setup. With a single drive you can get it up to about 65-70 mph on an x442 with a 2000k leopard.

        Not completely sure what the winds do. I've had both Y and D winds and they seem too similar to see any difference. People say D is more for torque and Y for high rpm.

        The life battery is only to power your rx and servo and to arm your escs. Life batteries are great, you can go a week on one charge and it's only 15 bucks. Just be sure to check it before you run your boat to see if it needs a charge.

        The cf fabric you can grab from ebay as they are all the same until you get into the high-end stuff where the weave quality matters: how big the gaps are in between each strand, small imperfections, etc. There are 3 kinds of thickness/strength you can go with for your task: 3k, 6k, and 12k. Most people use 3k for regular layups. It's up to you how strong you want the boat to be. With a 3k inlay you'll still have a lot of flex, but it'll be much tougher than what you have now. For what you're doing, regular cloth will do just fine as it takes less resin to saturate, is easier to drape over surfaces, and is cheaper/easier to get. Get some marine grade epoxy resin for real boats, also on ebay. This is a good option http://www.ebay.com/itm/CLEAR-EPOXY-...item4184a769fc

        Comment

        • Davey80
          Member
          • Jan 2014
          • 85

          #5
          "For a second there I thought you were doing a twin motor setup. With a single drive you can get it up to about 65-70 mph on an x442 with a 2000k leopard."

          Correct, this will be a twin motor setup. 2x Leopard 4082's

          Reason i asked about the RX batt is because up till now i've mostly dealt with rc vehicles, and the electric ones I have all use the main battery to power all the electronics on the vehicle as well as the motor. Just was curious what the advantage is in having power separation between the boat electronics and the motor. I'm guessing it just provides a longer run time? ...maybe slightly more power?

          Thanks for the info on the CF!
          Last edited by Davey80; 06-12-2015, 07:13 AM.

          Comment

          • TheShaddix
            Senior Member
            • Sep 2013
            • 759

            #6
            It's safer this way for the esc's. And most high end esc's need a separate battery to power them (swordfish 240/300, etc). I know that with seaking 180A it's especially wise to not use the power from your main batteries. What esc's are you planning on getting? Maybe I missed it somewhere but I don't recall you mentioning it.

            Comment

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