Venom King of Shaves P1 Mono Build.

[lt130th]

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Beginning with a stock, RTR King of Shaves P1.

Goal: 4s-6s setup

- Strip the interior
- Full carbon fiber inlay
- SeaKing 180A V2 ESC
- Aquacraft 36-56-2030kv
- JW .078 wire drive
- offset rudder

Ran this boat one time in OEM trim with an Octura X640. First impression - it looked cool on the water, but definitely deserves a stronger hull and hotter electronics.

[lt130th]

Removed all the electronics and hardware.

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[lt130th]

Removed all the interior wooden structure (by hand with little effort). One-piece 2x2 twill 3k carbon fiber layup in place with West Systems 105/207. I wrapped it 360 degrees and overlapped the ends a few inches on the top of the bow. What a difference in the hull stiffness. Definitely more confident in this hull handling more power/speed. Also cut a 2mm plate of carbon fiber to reinforce the transom. Going to bond it to the transom with West Systems G-flex 655 and apply a generous fillet to tie it into the hull walls and floor.

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[lt130th]

These boats come with the integrated rudder extension and stinger. I cut the plate they mount to the hull by so I can mount the rudder, offset, and run larger props. I noticed the original super-short rudder would come out of the water pretty easily on the one run I did before tearing into this boat. Even the slightest hop over a wake and the boat would lose steering control for a moment. I didn't like that so I massaged a spare rudder to replace the tiny stock one, and give a little extra control (hopefully).

[lt130th]

Test-fitting the electronics for CG, taping off motor mount, ESC and transom plate for epoxy. I had to trim the motor mount to the contour of the hull floor where the motor needed to sit. Wanted to get as much contact between mount and hull, and also get motor as low as possible. This is actually a 40mm motor mount, but I've drilled new mounting locations for the 40mm ring, and will be using a shim to support the 35mm motor. So by simply moving the motor ring back to the further slots, a 40mm motor can be dropped right in.

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[lt130th]

You can see in these pic's, when I did the inlay, I cut a window so the Venom logo in the hull floor could still be seen. Pretty friggin stoked that I nailed that!

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[lt130th]

Getting internals in place and ready to install transom hardware and new stuffing tube.

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[lt130th]

Holes drilled out and hardware mounted. The original owner installed the turn fins, which left holes in the hull, obviously, so I went ahead and put that back on. I've been using plumber's putty on through-hull bolts, for water-sealing. So far I've had good results with that method of keeping transom hardware holes leak-free. That's an Octura x447 prop in the pic. Offsetting the rudder allowed plenty of room for prop's.

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[lt130th]

Kintec order just shipped, with CF battery trays & motor mount finishing washers. This boat could be in the water next week.

[Tamelesstgr]

Really nice work! LT1 30th Anniversary (your screen name) is that a 97' Camaro by chance?

[lt130th]

LT1 30th Anniversary (your screen name) is that a 97' Camaro by chance?

Yes, it was (white with hugger orange stripes)...one of several Ford & Chevrolet F-body vehicles I owned between the mid 90's and early 2000's. It was a pristine specimine, but gave me many of the typical GM issues like failing opti-spark, power window & door locks melting from heat in the metal contacts (fire hazard), inability to keep both daytime running lamps lit for very long, LED's on the dash going out, etc. Also, the torque arm bolts came lose, often, & once, the clutch master cylinder piston sheared in two when I disengaged it at a red light. I remember that awesome spark plug on the rear of one of the heads which required one knee on the intake, one knee on the shock tower, & a combination of socket swivel & extensions combined with 50-60% of your arm length into the engine bay to remove/replace it...and of course the other seven plugs were accessed from underneath the car, LOL. Despite those problems, I still had a lot of fun with that car & would own another one. Of course, if I were to own another GM F-body today, it would receive similar treatment as this KOS P1 to rid it of GM's deficiencies.

[lt130th]

Cut & shaped stuffing tube. Installed with G-Flex 655. Cut a relief in the stinger backplate for the stuffing tube.

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[lt130th]

Epoxying feet to carbon battery trays and test-fitting for installation.

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[Tamelesstgr]

Test-fitting the electronics for CG, taping off motor mount, ESC and transom plate for epoxy. I had to trim the motor mount to the contour of the hull floor where the motor needed to sit. Wanted to get as much contact between mount and hull, and also get motor as low as possible.

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How quickly do you need to remove the tape after you get the epoxy where you want it?

[lt130th]

G-Flex 655 starts getting tacky after 15-20 minutes. I pull the tape off right away to get a smooth edge.