Shockwave 26 Repower/Improvements

[Tamelesstgr]

Bruce,

I did about 5 or 6 smaller batched of the expanding foam and ended up with smaller strips that extend from the opening through the nose. It was difficult to keep the foam even, but so glad I did that.

I measured my Uncle's SV27 trim tabs and the holes match up correctly, however, the way they set up the rudder on the shockwave limits me somewhat (especially with adjustable trim tab options) because the offset rudder uses one of the trim tab holes for mounting. I wonder if cutting stainless will be too difficult for my recripicating saw? Maybe Aluminum?

[RCBoaterGuy]

I've away from boats for quite some time, that's why I haven't been checking this acct much. Wanted to focus on finishing other projects since boats seem to be a never ending nightmare.

Really interested to see when i start cutting the plastic away from the transom how flemsy it may become...
I have this feeling you won't like the results. Keep something in mind, that hull was molded as two pieces - top & bottom then glued together. If chop up sections of it, you'll mess up the structural integrity of the whole unit. Based on what I've read, the consensus seems to be that adding CF or FG sheets to the interior is the best way to make ABS hull's stronger.

....added with new 5" rudder assembly - Why are you adding such a large rudder??
I did a lot of searching on eBay & various Asian vendors awhile back looking for an aluminum rudder setup for my SW26. I was not able to find exact matches, but did come with nice setups that are close. I attached pix of one setup that's about as close as I could find to stock dimensions.

I like those custom spin fin \ trim tabs Ken came up with, 1/2 tempted to send him a sheet of SS stock & $$ to make a set for me. Functional & lightweight, perfect for the SW26's.

Once there set, shouldn't be any reason to mess with them - so why the extra weight of adjustable ones?? I'm guessing your referring to something like these... http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=ose-tab1015 -- or these -- http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=ros-spdt-150

CNC props are very light & an excellent choice for dialing in a boat, can always get S&B octura's from Dasboata once you know the best size for your setup

8mm tubs... sorry never heard that term before, not sure what your referring to.

Hows the progress on the boat? Im waiting on a few parts to come in and my new 3s lipo packs (2) to get my boat singing across the water :)

Really interested to see when i start cutting the plastic away from the transom how flemsy it may become. i dont anything on the back to move and a LOT more weight is being added with new 5" rudder assembly, adjustable trim tabs, cnc prop, stainless bullet for prop and 8mm tubs... hmmm maybe a layer or so of FG might help if i feel like drag might buckle the transom or allow it to move. anyone have that thought or have worked with plastic hauls before?

[ECSURFER84]

I've away from boats for quite some time, that's why I haven't been checking this acct much. Wanted to focus on finishing other projects since boats seem to be a never ending nightmare.

Really interested to see when i start cutting the plastic away from the transom how flemsy it may become...
I have this feeling you won't like the results. Keep something in mind, that hull was molded as two pieces - top & bottom then glued together. If chop up sections of it, you'll mess up the structural integrity of the whole unit. Based on what I've read, the consensus seems to be that adding CF or FG sheets to the interior is the best way to make ABS hull's stronger.

....added with new 5" rudder assembly - Why are you adding such a large rudder??
I did a lot of searching on eBay & various Asian vendors awhile back looking for an aluminum rudder setup for my SW26. I was not able to find exact matches, but did come with nice setups that are close. I attached pix of one setup that's about as close as I could find to stock dimensions.

I like those custom spin fin \ trim tabs Ken came up with, 1/2 tempted to send him a sheet of SS stock & $$ to make a set for me. Functional & lightweight, perfect for the SW26's.

Once there set, shouldn't be any reason to mess with them - so why the extra weight of adjustable ones?? I'm guessing your referring to something like these... http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=ose-tab1015 -- or these -- http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=ros-spdt-150

CNC props are very light & an excellent choice for dialing in a boat, can always get S&B octura's from Dasboata once you know the best size for your setup

8mm tubs... sorry never heard that term before, not sure what your referring to.

I wasnt necessarily cutting away the structure if you will but cutting away the little parts along the transom to get the new rudder assembly and bolt block installed. I used a dremmel to grind down those areas just enough to get it installed. So as far as using the 5" rudder, this decision was made after many hours reading up on the spartan chine walk. Im running a spartan not a SW, fyi. 8mm tubing for the cooling system. see attached for parts (minus the prop which came in later) and the finished build. want to see how it runs with all the stuff on it now. been using the dremmel to grind down the leading edge and bottom of the stock turn fins as i feel the surface area of these will help pull the boat in the direction of the turn vs the teardrop ones i see many of us purchasing. They arnt as pretty but its the result im looking for. this isnt a light frame anymore, after all the upgrades.
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[ECSURFER84]

really wish the pickups were on the other side of the rudder, im afraid the wash from the prop is gunna reduce actual water flow. instead send a bunch of air up the tubes.

[RCBoaterGuy]

First off, my apologies, thought you were working with a SW26 like Ken & I are.

Now things make much more sense

What a lot of guys that have boats with rudder water P/U's with intake holes only on one side like yours do is add an auxiliary pickup to the transom. Have one pickup feeding the ESC & the other feeding the motor.

I got an aeromarine pickup in my parts box - yours if you want it. https://rocketcityracing.com/images/...020__90622.jpg - painted the bracket a nice medium blue, should look good on your boat, too big for my (real) boats.

Have Proboat IM31 & MG29, the rudders on both boats have inlets on both sides of the rudder to solve the issue you expressed concerns about. Attached pix of BJ29 to show what I'm referring to.

really wish the pickups were on the other side of the rudder, im afraid the wash from the prop is gunna reduce actual water flow. instead send a bunch of air up the tubes.

[RCBoaterGuy]

Ken - did the foam in my SW26 same way you did, in stages.

What happened is: I used this stuff for most of the boat... http://www.funrcboats.com/ProductInf...uctid=FOAMSHOT - got tired of continually running out of foam.

So last order got the large size... http://www.funrcboats.com/ProductInf...uctid=FRCBFOAM - that's the stuff that went haywire - in my Mini-V.

Finally just said "F" this, boxed up both the IM31 & MG29 indefinitely, I'd list them in the classifieds, but I know what will happen, so... turned my attention to my trucks. Don't have all these issues with them, everything always goes real smooth.

See post #33 - never ending nightmare. For some reason I just cannot seem to get boats figured out, constant problems, except the SW26...

Redid the ESC mount couple months ago, strapped one of these to it... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Venom-Atomik...p2047675.l2557 came out real nice. But still need to test the latest batch of foam before trying use it with this boat. Not doing a repeat of the Mini-V fiasco.

This boat did reeeellll good on her maiden, I do not want her getting fouled up.

But my hobby allowance is going to the trucks till all four are done - almost there.

Bruce,

I did about 5 or 6 smaller batched of the expanding foam and ended up with smaller strips that extend from the opening through the nose. It was difficult to keep the foam even, but so glad I did that.

I measured my Uncle's SV27 trim tabs and the holes match up correctly, however, the way they set up the rudder on the shockwave limits me somewhat (especially with adjustable trim tab options) because the offset rudder uses one of the trim tab holes for mounting. I wonder if cutting stainless will be too difficult for my recripicating saw? Maybe Aluminum?

[ECSURFER84]

First off, my apologies, thought you were working with a SW26 like Ken & I are.

Now things make much more sense

What a lot of guys that have boats with rudder water P/U's with intake holes only on one side like yours do is add an auxiliary pickup to the transom. Have one pickup feeding the ESC & the other feeding the motor.

I got an aeromarine pickup in my parts box - yours if you want it. https://rocketcityracing.com/images/...020__90622.jpg - painted the bracket a nice medium blue, should look good on your boat, too big for my (real) boats.

Have Proboat IM31 & MG29, the rudders on both boats have inlets on both sides of the rudder to solve the issue you expressed concerns about. Attached pix of BJ29 to show what I'm referring to.

"Real" boats huh? :) Sure if you are willing to part with it, i'll gladly accept and install!

I might just shave down the inlets to the front of the rudder like they did for the stock rudder.
traxxas-spartan-rudder-comp.jpg

[Tamelesstgr]

Some progress this last week. Was able to test and gps with 2s Lipo pack, about neck and neck in terms of speed compared to the 8.4v nimh pack I have been using.

Painted the windshield and trimmed with pinstripe tape, a hair dryer helped with getting the curves to blend nicely and lay flat. Just waiting for my logo sheet to come in and then I can apply them and get the clearcoat on.

I just ordered a 3s pack and GT Wattmeter that will log max values (amps, volts, watts) so I can see what the boat is actually doing out on the water versus estimating by holding it in a hot tub and trying to record the highest value on the screen.

I'm also not completely happy with it's turning attitude, seems to skip a little on turns, I don't know if that has more to do with the hull and chines, or the turn fins? I'm going to try making a little longer pair that has more curve to them.

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[Tamelesstgr]

Figured out a way to run aftermarket turn fin brackets with the stock Shockwave rudder set up. The bracket will overlap one hole on the trim tab and I'll even it out on the backside with a flat washer. On the Starboard side I trimmed half of the bracket away, so only 1 bolt through the transom, but I think it will hold up. Just waiting on new stainless hardware to arrive and we will be good to go this weekend. Logos and final clearcoat are drying, should have some pics posted in a few days. 3s lipo, GT watt meter and props packed up for testing.

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[RCBoaterGuy]

When I said "real boats" I meant the Proboat IM31-v1 (close in size to Spartan's) & Miss Geico 29-v2. Not the mini boats.

Lotta talk in the "RTR Fast Electric Talk" section about the new IM31-v3; don't get the impression that people somehow think its not a "real boat", so not quite sure why my V1 should be any different -- maybe I should just throw my boats in the dumpster & stick with what I know... R\C trucks.

About the mini boats...
The lake I normally goto was practically dry when I took the SW26 for her maiden late Sept last year. I honestly didn't think they would be able to refill it for this summer (so I would be limited to going to ponds).

When it did start filling up there was driftwood everywhere; at one point there was a pile of it at lake side big enough to build a two bedroom house. Smack that stuff with a MG29 going a good clip & you might as well pack it in, cuz your coming home empty handed.

But somehow they managed to get it most of the way full. With a triple digit heat wave + a major league drought in full force I have my doubts about how long the water will last.

Got the Mini-V couple years ago but never finished it cuz everybody on this site thinks they know more about designing boats than the engineers @ PB. So they whack off the outdrive & bastardize the transom on any\all boats so equipped.

Several months back I decided to scourer this forum & read everything I could find about that boat. Finally found a thread where a member said he wants to keep the OD, but make it so he can use standard 1/8" smooth bore props.

When I saw the solution a light bulb lite up (like Wiley Coyote when he gets one his brite idea's). I just said... no f'ing way, it can't be that simple, well it is & best of all I had the parts on hand because nobody took me up on my offer back @ xmas time.

From there I just started fiddling with it in effort to get 'er dialed in. Unfortunately, that process has not gone very smoothly.

Set the IM17 up very similar to the MV, only diff was the ESC, dam boat barely moved on the maiden. Was trying to establish a baseline prior to going brushless. Next time I take one of the other boats to the lake I'll take this one too & see what happens. Make decisions afterwards.

"Real" boats huh? :) Sure if you are willing to part with it, i'll gladly accept and install!

I might just shave down the inlets to the front of the rudder like they did for the stock rudder.
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[ECSURFER84]

When I said "real boats" I meant the Proboat IM31-v1 (close in size to Spartan's) & Miss Geico 29-v2. Not the mini boats.

Lotta talk in the "RTR Fast Electric Talk" section about the new IM31-v3; don't get the impression that people somehow think its not a "real boat", so not quite sure why my V1 should be any different -- maybe I should just throw my boats in the dumpster & stick with what I know... R\C trucks.

About the mini boats...
The lake I normally goto was practically dry when I took the SW26 for her maiden late Sept last year. I honestly didn't think they would be able to refill it for this summer (so I would be limited to going to ponds).

When it did start filling up there was driftwood everywhere; at one point there was a pile of it at lake side big enough to build a two bedroom house. Smack that stuff with a MG29 going a good clip & you might as well pack it in, cuz your coming home empty handed.

But somehow they managed to get it most of the way full. With a triple digit heat wave + a major league drought in full force I have my doubts about how long the water will last.

Got the Mini-V couple years ago but never finished it cuz everybody on this site thinks they know more about designing boats than the engineers @ PB. So they whack off the outdrive & bastardize the transom on any\all boats so equipped.

Several months back I decided to scourer this forum & read everything I could find about that boat. Finally found a thread where a member said he wants to keep the OD, but make it so he can use standard 1/8" smooth bore props.

When I saw the solution a light bulb lite up (like Wiley Coyote when he gets one his brite idea's). I just said... no f'ing way, it can't be that simple, well it is & best of all I had the parts on hand because nobody took me up on my offer back @ xmas time.

From there I just started fiddling with it in effort to get 'er dialed in. Unfortunately, that process has not gone very smoothly.

Set the IM17 up very similar to the MV, only diff was the ESC, dam boat barely moved on the maiden. Was trying to establish a baseline prior to going brushless. Next time I take one of the other boats to the lake I'll take this one too & see what happens. Make decisions afterwards.

I was torn between a proboat and the spartan when i bought my first boat, the spartan. I really like the proboats, they are well made and good looking, i just needed/wanted something bigger and faster. Impulse was my first choice but I was also torn between buying a RTR vs ARTR. Having absolutely no experience with boats i started with an RTR. I was stuck on fiberglass hulls, so i was completely surprised to receive a "plastic" hull. guess we'll see how she holds up in the long haul.

Just upgraded all the exteriors (except the turn fins which im modifying the stock to have a clean sharp lead and bottom edge using a dremmel). Need to lower the trim tabs and i hope this helps with the out of the hole issues i see. if i slam the gas it acts like it wants to do a full rotation upside down because of the torque im assuming. so i have to walk it out of the hole and up on plane. maybe some extra trim tabs will help.

Im a complete noooooooob to this hobby, but i grew up around boats and love them. this was perfect (minus the non ability to ride it, altho i could probably hold on to the back and it pull me around like a tug boat :) Aside from that i wanted to find something that i could play with/modify/tinker that was more affordable than a real boat. i love rc, had trucks and cars in the past, nothing to talk about but i was into them. thought about planes and said, if i wreck this thing im gunna be at square one again.... boat it is, less chance of smashing it into hard ground and more opportunity to salvage parts if i somehow beach it. PLUS it gets me out on the water!

So i chose the spartan because most of the time im at my dads beach house on the river, which happens to be next to a harbor, and boats come and go from there all day long, i wanted a boat that could handle the 1+ foot chop rolling into the beach. this boat does amazing with it, skipping across like it was in a field of daisies.

i think once i get the hang of taking the boat apart, learning the dynamics that go into it and the fine measurements, i'll build the next one. probably a twin 51". there is a beautiful p-1 fountain hull that i want. some guy in germany makes it, but it costs more to ship than the damn hull costs all by itself!!!

[RCBoaterGuy]

Ken,
First off, I really like the design of the one's you hand made. I think you were going in the right direction with those. As far as fabrication & working with various materials, remember I live in an apt so don't have a proper workshop - or room for 29 & 31-inch boats.

I use a dremel tool ( http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...-pc-68696.html ) with that hobby vise for most of my fabricating needs. Get dremel #420 cutoff wheels in 20-piece paks. Also keep plenty of course & fine sander drums on hand. Wally Mart, Lowe's & Home Depot have them.

Those cutoff wheels hack through everything I've thrown at them, brass stock, stainless stock, some over 1/8" thick, stainless bolts, wood, you name it. The thicker metals chew them up pretty quick, but that goes with the territory, part of being an RC hobbyist.

Aftermarket...
Also thought about them. While checking out all the available options kept thinking to myself.... remember, Darin Jordan designed shorter + rectangular fins for your IM31... http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ose-1400

So kinda steered away from the raked \ angled type fins. Just feel like Darin knows a lot more than I do & that he had to have a dam good reason for that design. So decided to follow his lead & found a nice set @ Kintec (see attached). If memory serve's me right, I found aluminum versions somewhere on the net.

What's nice about those is: you can trim some material off the back's & bottom's till you find the sweet spot for your boats setup.

BTW: how did you come up with that painted? window \ windshield you put on the canopy?? That is very nice!!

That was my primary fear about painting my boat, having seen that, no more fear.

Figured out a way to run aftermarket turn fin brackets with the stock Shockwave rudder set up. The bracket will overlap one hole on the trim tab and I'll even it out on the backside with a flat washer. On the Starboard side I trimmed half of the bracket away, so only 1 bolt through the transom, but I think it will hold up. Just waiting on new stainless hardware to arrive and we will be good to go this weekend. Logos and final clearcoat are drying, should have some pics posted in a few days. 3s lipo, GT watt meter and props packed up for testing.

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[ECSURFER84]

Ken,
First off, I really like the design of the one's you hand made. I think you were going in the right direction with those. As far as fabrication & working with various materials, remember I live in an apt so don't have a proper workshop - or room for 29 & 31-inch boats.

I use a dremel tool ( http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...-pc-68696.html ) with that hobby vise for most of my fabricating needs. Get dremel #420 cutoff wheels in 20-piece paks. Also keep plenty of course & fine sander drums on hand. Wally Mart, Lowe's & Home Depot have them.

Those cutoff wheels hack through everything I've thrown at them, brass stock, stainless stock, some over 1/8" thick, stainless bolts, wood, you name it. The thicker metals chew them up pretty quick, but that goes with the territory, part of being an RC hobbyist.

Aftermarket...
Also thought about them. While checking out all the available options kept thinking to myself.... remember, Darin Jordan designed shorter + rectangular fins for your IM31... http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ose-1400

So kinda steered away from the raked \ angled type fins. Just feel like Darin knows a lot more than I do & that he had to have a dam good reason for that design. So decided to follow his lead & found a nice set @ Kintec (see attached). If memory serve's me right, I found aluminum versions somewhere on the net.

What's nice about those is: you can trim some material off the back's & bottom's till you find the sweet spot for your boats setup.

BTW: how did you come up with that painted? window \ windshield you put on the canopy?? That is very nice!!

That was my primary fear about painting my boat, having seen that, no more fear.

I left the rectangular on mine as well because i felt there was more surface area to pull the boat into turns vs. the teardrop ones. Im doing whats shown in that kintec image with my dremel, and also across the bottom of the turn fin too.

[ECSURFER84]

i went with this dremel because of the flex shaft, makes getting in those tight spots easier, and also easier to hold
http://www.amazon.com/WEN-2305-Rotar...rds=wen+rotary

[Tamelesstgr]

Here is the finished paint job and I finished assembling the transom hardware. Custom printed logos and 3 coats of clear ontop of everything. Should be ready to rip while I'm on vacation.

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