Advice Please - Painting a Wooden Boat

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  • rickwess
    Senior Member
    • Apr 2013
    • 777

    #1

    Advice Please - Painting a Wooden Boat

    I've never really painted anything before (I don't count rattle cans or brushes) but I'm ready to jump in with both feet with my GP310.

    First things first. I have a pancake style compressor that can deliver 4CFM at 40PSI and found a place that sells disposable in-line air filters that attach directly to the spray gun. Speaking of which, I was planning on getting a G830 2.0 HVLP Gelcoat Touch-up Spray Gun. I can get smaller tips for use with epoxy paint.

    581-400x300.jpg

    I have access to Endura primers and paints.

    For the primer, should I be using a primer/sealer or a primer with high build capabilities?



    For the colour coat I was going to use Endura's top coat but was wondering if I I should clear over the top coat or as the clear suggests mix it with the top coat for the 2nd coat.



    Has anyone tried spraying gel-coat instead of epoxy paint?

    Any feedback, tips, tricks and gotchas from those with experience will be greatly appreciated.
  • srislash
    Not there yet
    • Mar 2011
    • 7673

    #2
    I would do the sealer then the high build primer Rick. It is a PITA getting rid of those wood grains but that wood will also soak up a ton of paint if you don't seal it.
    I usually seal with a quick brushing of epoxy, I know, redneck!

    Comment

    • detox
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Jun 2008
      • 2318

      #3
      Good automotive paints are very expensive. Cheaper Chinese color coat paints do not level very well and must be color sanded.

      Comment

      • rickwess
        Senior Member
        • Apr 2013
        • 777

        #4
        Originally posted by srislash
        I would do the sealer then the high build primer Rick. It is a PITA getting rid of those wood grains but that wood will also soak up a ton of paint if you don't seal it.
        I usually seal with a quick brushing of epoxy, I know, redneck!
        It's already sealed with epoxy. I was trying to go with a redneck gelcoat and tinted the sealing epoxy white. What a mess. I'm already 12hrs into it sanding most of it off.

        Comment

        • rickwess
          Senior Member
          • Apr 2013
          • 777

          #5
          Originally posted by detox
          Good automotive paints are very expensive. Cheaper Chinese color coat paints do not level very well and must be color sanded.
          Is Endura cheap Chinese? Composites Canada typically carries good products and sells to many boat builders in the southern Ontario area (i.e. Cottage Country). I was told these products were marine quality epoxy paint.

          Comment

          • flraptor07
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Aug 2013
            • 2451

            #6
            Don't know about the Endura, but I use all automotive paint. Started with spot putty for bigger imperfections then a high build primer, 3-4 coats sanding in between each coat till you can't see any grain or imperfections. Then I used a two stage base coat/clear coat urethane for my color, This is by far not the cheapest way to go but the results will be well worth the effort and expence.

            Comment

            • JimClark
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Apr 2007
              • 5907

              #7
              Sealing the wood in epoxy is not an option in my opinion it is a must unless you want your boat to last only one or two years

              Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk
              Last edited by JimClark; 02-12-2015, 12:42 PM.
              "Our society strives to avoid any possibility of offending anyone except God.
              Billy Graham

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              • flraptor07
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Aug 2013
                • 2451

                #8
                Originally posted by JimClark
                Sealing the wood in epoxy is not an option in my opinion it is a must unless you want your boat to last only one or two years

                Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk
                Jim you're right, I was assumeing it was sealed with one coat of epoxy like most do when building a wood boat. You know what they say about assume.......

                Comment

                • ray schrauwen
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Apr 2007
                  • 9471

                  #9
                  Rick made a mistake on a layer that didn't work out, I did this twice on my Whip 40. once I sanded it down there was still some epoxy in some areas of the boat so,I did what a member here taught me. I took a piece of old white T-shirt with no fuzz, pure cotton and use it to just wipe on a layer. You have to be quick and just removing the excess with the T-shirt left me a nice finish. If and when I go to paint, I'll wet sand it with 320-400, prime and paint with the Klass Kote it's called... Got it in Michigan. There is a dealer in Manitoba, not sure if they ship to Ontario. I'm trying to find out.

                  I've finished oak tables etc in high school using clean pure cotton rags and it works well for sealing. From bare wood it may take a few coats.
                  Nortavlag Bulc

                  Comment

                  • ray schrauwen
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • Apr 2007
                    • 9471

                    #10
                    Originally posted by detox
                    Good automotive paints are very expensive. Cheaper Chinese color coat paints do not level very well and must be color sanded.

                    http://www.klasskote.com/
                    For what you get, I would not call it expensive.
                    Nortavlag Bulc

                    Comment

                    • capnswanny
                      Senior Member
                      • Feb 2012
                      • 817

                      #11
                      Originally posted by ray schrauwen
                      Rick made a mistake on a layer that didn't work out, I did this twice on my Whip 40. once I sanded it down there was still some epoxy in some areas of the boat so,I did what a member here taught me. I took a piece of old white T-shirt with no fuzz, pure cotton and use it to just wipe on a layer. You have to be quick and just removing the excess with the T-shirt left me a nice finish. If and when I go to paint, I'll wet sand it with 320-400, prime and paint with the Klass Kote it's called... Got it in Michigan. There is a dealer in Manitoba, not sure if they ship to Ontario. I'm trying to find out.

                      I've finished oak tables etc in high school using clean pure cotton rags and it works well for sealing. From bare wood it may take a few coats.
                      Thanks Ray, love the thin coat epoxy tip, I'm gonna try it out on the rigger!
                      This is NOT a toy?!?

                      Comment

                      • rickwess
                        Senior Member
                        • Apr 2013
                        • 777

                        #12
                        I assume it's still sealed. I've got so much time invested in sanding the past sins smooth that adding a thin layer with a cotton then sanding off the gloss with 400 is simple insurance.

                        Comment

                        • ray schrauwen
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Apr 2007
                          • 9471

                          #13
                          It worked well for me. The only problem I had was it was a hot day when I was doing it and mixed a batch to do the whole Whip 40. Did bottom first then top. Bottom is perfect and smooth, the top had some fluff that resulted in a slightly rough finish but, that's because the epoxy was kicking off whilr doing the top. When I do it again, I'll mix smaller batches and do bottom first, then top with second mix. It was a big boat and to make it easier for me I hung it from the ceiling bith a bungee cord and paper under to catch any (none really) drips. I hung it from the azz end so if it drips at all, the ride surfaces stay sharp and the sponson tips have the most accumulaion of epoxy. I kept checking on it to wipe drips until it set.
                          Nortavlag Bulc

                          Comment

                          • longballlumber
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Apr 2007
                            • 3132

                            #14
                            Originally posted by ray schrauwen
                            It worked well for me. The only problem I had was it was a hot day when I was doing it and mixed a batch to do the whole Whip 40. Did bottom first then top. Bottom is perfect and smooth, the top had some fluff that resulted in a slightly rough finish but, that's because the epoxy was kicking off whilr doing the top. When I do it again, I'll mix smaller batches and do bottom first, then top with second mix. It was a big boat and to make it easier for me I hung it from the ceiling bith a bungee cord and paper under to catch any (none really) drips. I hung it from the azz end so if it drips at all, the ride surfaces stay sharp and the sponson tips have the most accumulaion of epoxy. I kept checking on it to wipe drips until it set.
                            Wow Ray,

                            It sounds like you sprayed pretty heavy. I have been using the Klass Kote product on several of my hulls and I have never needed to spray that heavy. You might want to try a couple thin coats instead of one heavy coat. Remember paint is just that; paint (or pigment). It doesn't add any significant amount of strength. Keep that gun moving.

                            Later,
                            Ball

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