Project HPR 233

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  • TheShaddix
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2013
    • 759

    #31
    Is there any reason you don't want to cut those mounts out of CF ? What would be nice is if you sandwich these wooden mounts in between 2 CF plates.

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    • ls1fst98
      Senior Member
      • Oct 2009
      • 859

      #32
      I would imagine they are templates?
      HPR 135 redemption, HPR C5009, modded zelos 36, 32 boats and counting.
      Flier ESC dealer, pm me for details.
      https://www.facebook.com/groups/EliteRCBoats/

      Comment

      • TheShaddix
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2013
        • 759

        #33
        His first image shows a cardboard template, then, as he said, he transferred the template onto wood and cut out those mounts. I just think the boat needs something stronger than just wood engine mounts. It's unheard of to use wood for such things.

        Comment

        • tlandauer
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Apr 2011
          • 5666

          #34
          He has a fantastic "system", I wish I have an aluminum template for the motor, I had to rely on medicine pill bottle. I also believe the wood is the "second" stage template. But it looks so good, I can almost eat it!
          Helmut, looking great!!!
          Last edited by tlandauer; 02-10-2015, 03:45 AM.
          Too many boats, not enough time...

          Comment

          • ls1fst98
            Senior Member
            • Oct 2009
            • 859

            #35
            I would prefer to do a hard template in wood, then do any tweaking, filing, and fitting on a wooden template then transfer that to my final cf plate. That way any mistake made in trimming is done on wood and not a large expensive piece of CF. It's how I did my 51 victory mounts. Got a rough shape in cardboard, then did wood and mounted the motor to see angles and what not. Make the trimming. Then transferred that to my cf sheets. You can't bolt motors to cardboard and this way you get a complete and final look without messing with the cf til it's 100% ready.

            Also wooden mounts have held many large cc gas motors which vibrate and shake a hull far worse than any FE
            HPR 135 redemption, HPR C5009, modded zelos 36, 32 boats and counting.
            Flier ESC dealer, pm me for details.
            https://www.facebook.com/groups/EliteRCBoats/

            Comment

            • mudl
              Senior Member
              • Aug 2008
              • 159

              #36
              Hi Guys

              the wood motor mounst are only templates.
              Wood is not strong enough.
              But later to this.

              Next step was to make the right holes to mount the drives on the Boat.
              First i thake the drives as a stamp,with a ink pad on self-sdhesive labels.
              After this i construct the middle point for the holes where the flexdrive goes trough ,on the labels.
              Than i cut out the labes and stick it on the right pace on the hull.
              After this i drill the holes.
              Next step was to mount and position the drives exactly.
              Last stpe was to drill the 4 holes for the back support

              so here some pictures









              Comment

              • mudl
                Senior Member
                • Aug 2008
                • 159

                #37
                here some more pictures
                and next time it goes on with the final motor mounts

                bye
                mudl









                Comment

                • mudl
                  Senior Member
                  • Aug 2008
                  • 159

                  #38
                  Hello

                  now mounting the final Motor mounts

                  I sent my wood tampletes to frind of mine and he makes the mounts on a cnc milling machine from 6 millimeter Carbon.

                  I psition the carbon mounts exactly in the hull and mark the position.
                  Than i grind the hull and the carbon plates very exactly that the palte connect optimal in the hull.
                  After this i fixed the carbon paltes with super glue.
                  Next i stick it with resin.
                  After this i laminate the motormounts with a 5 zentimeter carbon ribbon in front and in the back side in the hull.
                  I think now they are strong enough for the Lehner Torqstar.









                  Comment

                  • mudl
                    Senior Member
                    • Aug 2008
                    • 159

                    #39
                    some more pictures









                    Comment

                    • ls1fst98
                      Senior Member
                      • Oct 2009
                      • 859

                      #40
                      Very nice! Yea those aren't going anywhere for sure.
                      HPR 135 redemption, HPR C5009, modded zelos 36, 32 boats and counting.
                      Flier ESC dealer, pm me for details.
                      https://www.facebook.com/groups/EliteRCBoats/

                      Comment

                      • mudl
                        Senior Member
                        • Aug 2008
                        • 159

                        #41
                        Next is the tubes for the flexdrives and the inlet for the Watercooling.

                        I take brass tubes with 10/9,1 mm for the flexdrive tubes.
                        First i burn out the tubes,so that the material is very soft and easy to shape.
                        I cover the tubes with a black heat shrink.
                        After this i fixed it in the hull at the back end with super glue.
                        To shape it i put a teflon and the flexdrive in it and mount the motors with the coupplers.
                        I shape the tubes with the fingers.This is very easy.
                        After this i made two mounts for the tubes out of a 10 mm carbon plate.
                        I glue it with a black thick resin in the hull.
                        That the resin stands at his place i used rubber o-rings .
                        The o-rings are fixed with super glue in the hull,so the resin cannot run out.

                        Next is the watercooling.
                        I drilled a 5mm hole in the bottom of the hull.
                        After this i glued a 5mm brass tube in an angle of 90 degrees into the hull.
                        This lets enough water in for cooling while the boat is driving and i also use electric pumps for cooling.









                        Comment

                        • mudl
                          Senior Member
                          • Aug 2008
                          • 159

                          #42
                          and some more photos







                          Comment

                          • TheShaddix
                            Senior Member
                            • Sep 2013
                            • 759

                            #43
                            Looks great with the motors mounts! I would add some more support in the middle of those stuffing tubes as they seem really long and thin. You want to minimize vibration. Also, what is the size (in mm) of those water inlet tubes on the inside? They look a bit small but maybe that's because the boat is so huge.

                            Comment

                            • jj2003
                              HIGH VOLTAGE ADDICT!
                              • May 2011
                              • 1501

                              #44
                              Originally posted by mudl
                              Hello

                              now mounting the final Motor mounts

                              I sent my wood tampletes to frind of mine and he makes the mounts on a cnc milling machine from 6 millimeter Carbon.

                              I psition the carbon mounts exactly in the hull and mark the position.
                              Than i grind the hull and the carbon plates very exactly that the palte connect optimal in the hull.
                              After this i fixed the carbon paltes with super glue.
                              Next i stick it with resin.
                              After this i laminate the motormounts with a 5 zentimeter carbon ribbon in front and in the back side in the hull.
                              I think now they are strong enough for the Lehner Torqstar.





                              Greeting's Mudl,
                              I have been a fan of pbfpassau for some time now. Red Eye Express is one of my fav's! You have some great builds in the past and I'm watching this one close.

                              I have one of Radtek's HPR233 hulls and I've been gathering parts up quietly for it. Would it be to much to ask for a paper trace of your motor mount template's pictured above? They don't have to have the holes traced just the overall shape. I'm using LMT 3080's so I would drill out my own center's.

                              I've tried a few guys who have built these before (even Hanspeter) but no one has kept a template of the mount's for the 233. I think I'll be using two pieces of 4mm CF back to back for a total of 8mm. Or I may order a sheet of 12" by 24" CF from a company here stateside. Not sure what I want to go with just yet. The sheet I have right now is finished on one side so bonding the two 4mm pieces would not be an issue. I've done it before using 3 pieces of 2mm CF
                              and it was strong as ever. I just don't know how easy 6mm CF will be to cut.
                              "If guns cause crime, all of mine are defective"
                              45"Speedfreek
                              , Fightercat #068 ​, MyYoutube Vids

                              Comment

                              • Fella1340
                                Fast Electric Addict!
                                • May 2013
                                • 1035

                                #45
                                Looking great as always. I'm very curious as to how you'll run the watercooling and use water cooling pumps as well. Will the pumps run full time to supply cooling or will you be able to switch them on and off, letting the cooling system run normally with them off? I hope that makes sense. Any details you can share as you install it would be appreciated.

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