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Revolt drive line would work fine JMHO on 4s bullet proof. I would add a strike maybe 6" long one on each side. Ending at or just past the transom to form a small air trap to get the hull free from water drag. Turn fin up front to help it come about. Looks like a fun build. Good luck.Do It Like You Mean It .....or Don't Bother -
the skeg on the bottom you cut off is what he is talking about I believe. Because the bottom is so flat, the hull needs an opposing surface to give it "guidance" or directional control. without it, it would be like unbolting the turn fin on a hydro.
If it were me, I would reinstall the skeg on the keel, somewhere around your CG. Use a short skegged strut with a shortish offset rudder as close to the transom as possible. speedmaster will have the strut you need.
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without the skeg up front there would be no need for turn fins in the rear. In its simplest form, that hull needs the front skeg, skegged strut, and rudder. I would run it at that point and see whats what.
I try to think of it like a mono hulled sailboat with a center board. The center board serves two purposes, to prevent it from capsizing in strong winds, and to give the rudder an opposing surface. without it the boat simply would not turn, it would do more of a dog leg of sorts.Comment
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I'm thinking about putting two skegs on this boat one on eather side of the center line and at the cg which is 10.5 inches from the back of the boat, question is how long do you feel the skeggs should be? and also since there is so much room in there would this be a good choice to build a twin with two 2000kv motors, with two 85 escs. just a thought.Comment
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CG should be found with the boat at a "ready to run"state, and measured from the transom forward.
All motors, batteries, mounts and hardware should be in there prospective locations.
With an electric setup, most CG corrections can be made with battery placement because they are the heaviest item in the boat. With gas boats, the engine and fuel tank placement are more critical because they are the heaviest objects in the boat, and they are not easily moved.Comment
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Ok so I don't install a motor a cg but just where I want inconjunction with my stuffing tube and adjust cg with the batterys.
I got a strudder, It seems small but it is for a .150 flex, as mentioned before are the strikes the, how can I say it, ok like the ribs on the bottom of the boat.
or should I install skegs in the bottom,two, one on eather side of the centerline near the transom if you know what I mean.
thanks again for your help on this.Comment
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I would do a single skeg down the keel, somewhere close to the cg.
Planing strakes are the ribs in the hull that run parallel with the keel. they are designed to help a deep vee get up out of the water. I would not use them on a flat bottom hull like this simply because it needs no help to get on top of the water.Comment
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Great, thats the answer I was looking for, but one last question for now anyway, How long or how deep do you feel the skeg should be? the one I cut off was at least 2.5-3 inches long, seems a bit large to me but then again it was a gasser.
thanks again.Comment
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Your boat has a flat botton like the Dumas kit so this link can be a help :http://www.dumasproducts.com/product...roducts_id=791 GillGO FAST AND TURN RIGHT !
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