33" Mono, Project "Playboy"

[Simon170]

Hi guys, just thought I'd start a thread on, and maybe pick up some pointers for, my first boat build
I've got a mono as I like the look of them the most, its going to be a fun/sports boat, no racing (although I still want it fast) so will probably be going with a Florida keys, playboys weekend toy type feel with a bright metallic paint job.
Im into RC a lot and have scratch buit a 1/6scale crawler and built/modded a bunch of other stuff, but boats are new to me so let me know if I do something wrong.

I gotta get a alot more parts before I can progress and get started mounting things up.

So far I have:
The 33" mono hull
Leopard 4082 1500kv motor
Cooling can
Billet motor mount
Seaking 180 ESC
BEC
Spektrum DX3S

Obviously I need a lot more stuff, which I'll be ordering from OSE soon, let me know if this all looks ok:
Speedmaster Stinger Strut for 3/16" prop shaft
150 Assembled Octura Cable with drive dog.
.150 Teflon tubing.
Prop nut.
1/4" brass stuffing tube.
Speedmaster dual pickup tapered rudder with 4" setback
Aeromarine 5mm motor shaft to .150 cable coupler
Dubro pushrod seals
x2 OSE water outlets
x2 bulkhead fittings
Prop - errrr yeah, open to suggestions on that one as a I have no idea on the black art of choosing these! lol

Am I missing anything, any comments?

I have some more pics of the hull, I'll get them off my phone later and post them up

Thanks in advance.

[properchopper]

.150 cable is on the small side ; better to go .187 - 9/32" brass with teflon insert (smooth/quiet) or 1/4" tube sans teflon.

[Simon170]

Thanks for the help Proper, its this kind of help thats going to stop me making a costly mistake. Appreciate it.
So I'd need 9/32 diameter stuffing tube
OSE .187 assembled cable with 3/16 shaft http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ose-1190
and .187 teflon tubing http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...=oct-oc187t-24

[Fluid]

Don't forget the new coupler. What voltage are you going to use?




.

[785boats]

Simon.
You'd better change your collet to a 5mm -.187 size too.
What batteries are you intending to run. We'd best make sure they are up to the task if you already have them with all your other R/C gear.
Paul.

Edit.
Oops, seems Jay posted while I was typing.

[Simon170]

Fluid, 785 boats
Thanks guys, got that noted, cheers for the reminder.
Eventually I want to use 6s, but might start on 5s to see how it goes once built up. I don't have the battery packs yet as I was going to see what space was left after everything is in there and buy accordingly. Was thinking maybe Gens Ace.

Does the rudder setup sound about right? The correct amount of set back needed is a bit of a mystery to me, I went with 4" as it was the most common. I know the rudder is on the big side but I might cut it down if needed.
Going to leave turn fins and trim tabs for the moment, as from what I've read they are not always needed.

[Simon170]

Heres some more pics of the hull. The hull builder kindly painted it white for me, just so it was ready to go, but I'll be painting is something a little wilder once its built. I wanted a Outerlimits style hull with a rear overhang and I think he did me proud.

[785boats]

Simon.
I generally like to have the leading edge of the rudder level with the front of the prop.
I think you will at least need a set of turn fins to help get you around the corners.
Trim tabs? Some people say they are just water brakes, and are not needed. But I've got them on all my monos.
Try it without & see how she handles. You can always add them later.

[Simon170]

Thanks for the reply 785boats.
The stinger is 82.5mm long, plus a bit extra for the shaft and dog drive, then the prop. I'm guessing that should put me around the 4" mark for the start of the prop. The next size down in set back is 2 3/8" of set back, which I assume is too short... but only an assumption. From what I've read the 6 1/4" tall rudder is too much and I will have to cut it down.
As turn fins are only cheap I'll add a set to the order just incase.

This really is a learn as a you go for me lol, now trying to figure out how to bond/secure the stuffing tube and motor mount to the hull.

[Spartanator]

33" Mono, Project "Playboy"

Some people have been using RevoElectrix packs with outstanding results. I prefer SPC lipos myself.
Could you post a picture of the bottom of the hull? Please.

[Simon170]

Hey Pal, yeah sure I'll add one now.
I have big 8200 SPC packs that I use in my race Clod, Summit and Wraith, absolute love SPC!

[Spartanator]

33" Mono, Project "Playboy"

Thanks for posting the picture! I was trying to see if the hull was really stepped...
The SPC 8200mah packs have crazy runtime in a Summit. (I had one, the ERevo)
So maybe you could run two 4s 6500packs in parallel from SPC for runtime and voltage? I personally think trim tabs help in case of a blow over, but they don't really make them in the right scale for RC...
If you look at a 1:1 Power Boat you can see that the tabs are long and skinny. Most shops that make RC trim tabs just make them a square which helps but I like the 1:1 tab style better. If I just doubled the tab length I bet I would notice a hull that becomes more stable.
If you have a well balanced hull and run mainly in glass then tabs aren't really needed... IMO, but I have driven Power boats so maybe my "thought" is correct... Maybe not. But it is wise to run without them first but leave room for installation if needed.
It's a cool looking hull.

If you get a chance, Look up the Playboy Cigarette Edition, it's an awesome Power Boat.