Cheetah Build

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • electric
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • May 2008
    • 1744

    #16
    Originally posted by rearwheelin
    If it's not too much trouble can you post a link to Tony's write up ? Thanks
    Here you go(see below). If you do an "advanced search" on the top right of your screen and search for user "properchopper" and keyword "cheetah", you will get a few others for this boat he has done. Also, just search on cheetah for the keyword and a bunch of stuff will come up.

    http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hlight=cheetah

    Comment

    • rearwheelin
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Oct 2008
      • 1941

      #17
      Originally posted by electric
      Here you go(see below). If you do an "advanced search" on the top right of your screen and search for user "properchopper" and keyword "cheetah", you will get a few others for this boat he has done. Also, just search on cheetah for the keyword and a bunch of stuff will come up.

      http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hlight=cheetah
      Thanks , nice to go straight to it .
      "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex... It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
      --Albert Einstein

      Comment

      • kenrid
        Fast Electric Enthusiast
        • Dec 2012
        • 33

        #18
        Great build. I wish I had read Poperchoppers earlier posting, as I have the same hull with a short strut and rudder and it spins out on the turns and runs too nose heavy. I have ordered up a new 1/4 inch strut and larger rudder and will try again.
        FE30, Kintec Pursuit, Revolt 30, ML GP400 V2, Blackjack 29 (RIP), HK Outer Limits

        Comment

        • electric
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • May 2008
          • 1744

          #19
          Answering a PM I just got on this. Ken, I purchased the http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...os-spds-013-SK strut for this boat. I then ground off the "skeg" underneath it. The only other thing is I may have used brackets from a smaller strut so that it would fit on the transom, but it has been too long not sure about that. It was the hardest part about building the boat for sure.

          Then I used brass tubing insert to reduce it down with a bushing to end up having it work with a 3/16" shaft. Another club member was able to use the standard strut. As I recall he glued in a piece of plywood inside the transom. He then attached the strut brackets using wood screws and epoxy to hold them in place as he screwed them in. This enabled him to get the brackets down low enough to make it all work. I liked his solution better.

          Here are some pics of mine. By the way I am racing this boat in P-offshore in just a few weeks. Still going strong. The only other thing I would do differently would be to mount the motor further towards the transom. I almost got the weight too far forward on it at 10 1/4" from the transom to the back of the motor. I have to put the batteries about 1" from the very back to get the COG right.

          By the way, notice the long rudder. Keeps the nose down and the boat planted on the turns. I have even put a small piece of tape about 1" long hanging off the bottom of the rudder on windy days to keep it down while racing. You lose some speed, but keep it on the water... It also has a Neu motor in it now

          Hope this helps.
          Attached Files
          Last edited by electric; 03-01-2016, 09:04 AM.

          Comment

          • Wavewalker
            Member
            • Dec 2014
            • 62

            #20
            I am building myself (first time cheetah) If you would please give advice on stuffing tube and size shaft. I think 1/4 to 3/16, But I need length and size. And anything also I might need to know

            Respectfully Yours

            Wavewalker

            Comment

            Working...