Scott's JAE

[Scott T]

Our club is running 4 cell riggers for the first time this season, so I had to join in. This should be an easy build, I cheated and bought the pre-built kit from Zippkits! Joe even sent me the version that was pre-drilled for hardware, so I also got the Zippkits hardware (except motor mount) to make life easy.

I will need to make some changes along the way though, since I'm dropping in a BIG BLOCK 1518/1.5D. There are probably more appropriate motors, but I had one sitting here doing nothing, and I can't bare parting with it.

Speed control will be a fan-cooled Barra 125. It handled the motor no problems in a DF33 - I know the fan won't work as well in the confines of a rigger, but it should be OK.

Prop will be an ABC H7 to start with.

IMAG2609.jpgIMAG2618.jpg

[Scott T]

I made a bubble cockpit for it. Two reasons - 1. to help clear the motor, and 2. becasue they look cool!. I used a balsa frame to get the shape right and blue foam for filler. Then glassed over the whole thing. The bottom was hollowed out and glassed from underneath.

[Scott T]

Next up was the motor mount. I don't think the 1518 will fit into the Zippkits mount, so I made one of my own. I may also change motors to run in our Spec class, so I wanted a mount that will allow quick motor changes.

I grabbed an old Associated RC10 Graphite chassis and my Dremel and went to work. The chassis was the perfect thickness and the resulting mount is very stiff and light. Keen eyes will notice I removed the top of the wooden bulkhead for motor clearance. This did take away from the stiffness of the hull, so I will address that later.

[Scott T]

Time to address the sponsons. The weather was good, so I wanted to get them painted. First I removed the side overhangs from the area behind the ride surface (where the turn fin mounts). I also gave the top edges a bit of a radius, but left all lower areas nice and sharp. Then I re-sealed these areas ready for primer. Prime, sand, prime, sand, paint, done!

[Scott T]

I wasn't sure how to address the removal of the top of the bulkhead. I was going to add a new piece across the top in front of the motor, but that would create access issues. Hmmm...time for more carbon fibre!

There wasn't enough RC10 chassis left, but AndyM gave me some small carbon pieces a few years back. I made up a doubler for the bulkhead, but made it chunkier than the wooden bulkhead so there would be plenty of stiffness without the top piece. Lots of dry fitting before finally epoxying it into place. The resulting piece weighed almost nothing, but has restored the stiffness lost by cutting the bulkhead. Great result!

[Scott T]

Laying out the electrics hasn't been fun. I want to put the battery on the left side of the tub with the motor wires running down the right side (for balance reasons). But my batteries would fit better if mounted on the right side (of course! LOL). BUt I think I can make it work on the left. I also need to make a decision on the servo and receiver pack.....

[785boats]

Nice one Scotty.
It's going to be a fun class.
Would a canard rigger be race legal?

[grsboats]

nice Project and you will be pleased as me...here's what I did to my Jae:Leopard 4082 2000kv,esc T180 ,running on 6S is fast and fun ...vídeo http://youtu.be/ym0vOQDDbIc
Gill

[Scott T]

Gil, sounds liike you have a fast JAE! I'm sure I'll love this boat.

Paul, yes, I'm pretty sure canards are legal. Should be a fun class, canardly wait! LOL

[ezhitz]

Can you tell me how far from the transom did you mount your motor thanks

[Kris Flynn]

Nice work Scott! As always of course

Hope you got a few spare sets of boom tubes and bottles of CA if you are racing with those guys in your club!

[Scott T]

ezhits - the motor mounting face is 170 mm from the transom (outside face)

Kris - yeah mate, got some spare booms, and I always have plenty of CA and epoxy!

[ezhitz]

Thanks Scott

[Scott T]

Tub and hatch are now sanded and ready for paint. Tub will be clear coated only, hatch will be red like the sponsons, with some sort of windscreen on the bubble. I'll probably get some graphics made for the tub to jazz it up on the sides.

Inside shot shows doublers for where the battery Velcro will be attached and for the safety loop plugs (requirement in Australia). The battery will attach to the left side of the tub, with the motor wires running down the right side. I considered a shelf for the battery like many others used, but this way gives me more access to the motor plugs. I've also laid a bit of glass in to add strength to the motor mount since the last update.

[Scott T]

Basic painting is done, just graphics to go on (possibly after testing). Next is re-assembly and fit-out, which I can do after the kids are asleep at night