My take on the Top Speed 3 Conversion/Build

[tlandauer]

Well, I got the Tunnel Fever awhile aback when I bought a VS1 from mtbenjamin77 and another ML PS-295 from Highflyerbill. The TS3 from Towerhibbies was $89 a pop a few weeks ago, couldn't resist. So here I am. it was intended as a quick build as my work is still going crazy in June, let's see how far I can get before the high summer sets in as I have a shovel nose Miss Timex which needs to be completed. ( Jim Clark's gorgeous build!)
As you see, the transom was COA ( cracked on arrival) as Chilli noted in his build. I performed the first necessary surgery : remove the fuel tank platform and the hump on the middle floor, stuffed with FG cloth rolled into the openings, filled the open space in the inner transom.DSCN3551_3750.jpg DSCN3555_3754.jpg DSCN3561_3760.jpg DSCN3564_3763.jpg
I ordered G10 FG plate and cut two strips to reinforce the inside, the FG hull is flexible due to the removal of the fuel tank platform.DSCN3565_3764.jpg

[tlandauer]

Now the gelcoat has been sanded away and you see how big the crack is, this is cause by the transom doubler inside not extending all the way to the bottom, and flex on the transom would stress the thin FG hull. The dark line is solid epoxy mixed with Great Planes Milled Fiber Glass showing from insideDSCN3607_3766.jpg. I made a template and cut a G 10 to reinforce from the outside. This will make a bullet proof, hopefully. DSCN3609_3768.jpg DSCN3611_3770.jpg DSCN3620_3773.jpg and thanks to Properchopper, I learned the bubble trick and this pilot hole drill. DSCN3622_3775.jpg

[tlandauer]

I was told that the ideal layout for the TS3 is for the battery to be placed as far back as possible. I bought Dinogy (4s, 6000mah) from Mark F at the 2013 RCX and these are pretty long batteries at 200mm! I debated whether to put the steering servo in the back and use solid rods or placing the steering mechanism in the front, in the end I opt for the latter. So I need to cut out templates for the radio/servo box. Since I don't to CAD design, this is decidedly mid-20th century approach! I am using 1/4" basswood for the bottom and the sides are 1/16" birch ply from MidwestProducts. Cross member is 1/4" plywood.
DSCN3623_3816.jpg DSCN3627_3820.jpg DSCN3631_3824.jpg, the other "occupants" of my family is not amused at my converted work bench!
The partially finished box:DSCN3637_3830.jpgDSCN3638_3831.jpg

[tlandauer]

These are the water lines and I also debated whether to group the three wires from the ESC in one big opening or three separate exits. The latter was easier for me to manage:DSCN3687_3878.jpg DSCN3698_3889.jpg DSCN3711_3902.jpgDSCN3716_3907.jpg DSCN3723_3913.jpg

[tlandauer]

The stock aluminum backing plate is quite thin and knowing how I tend to over do things, I will strip it in no time. I like beefier blind nuts instead. However, because the shape of the transom is narrower on the top, I can't use the blind nuts Great Plane makes for the top, luckily I found smaller ones at a hobby shop. I am using SAE 6-32 bolts and blind nuts instead of the M3 that is featured with the kit. DSCN3730_3920.jpgDSCN3732_3922.jpgDSCN3746_3936.jpgDSCN3733_3923.jpg DSCN3737_3927.jpg

[tlandauer]

Think I may be still able to use the stock servo stand, will definitely save me some work: DSCN3740_3930.jpg DSCN3742_3932.jpgDSCN3743_3933.jpg
That's it for now, thanks for looking!
I would love to hear opinions regarding how to link the steering arm on the OB. I can't decide whether to use ball link/cup or simply use this: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK076&P=SM
Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Also if I solder the steering cable , anything I need to know? I solder brass w/o any problem, but never soldered steel cable.

[Gabe_k]

looks sweet! ive always wanted to drive an outboard boat

[kendt]

I just redid the radio box for mine so I could fit a t180 in it.If it was a nose hair wider the cowl wouldn't fit. I put the servo up front and used cables with clevises on the servo end and ball links on the motor end. Soldering cable can be a real pita. Use lots of and lots of flux. I found a soldering iron worked better than a torch. I couldn't get the flame low enough and the solder just dripped off. I actually ran my cables out through the sides of the box about 2in from the servo instead of running them out the back. Im using 6s packs and the cable were a pain inside the box.

[Heaving Earth]

lookin good tim! do you have any vids of your other tunnels?

[capnswanny]

Nice Work!
If I were to do-over I too would move the servo forward.

I found the recommended CG of 7.5 to 8.5 worked for me. Weight too far fwd and it hooked and dove.
With my light REK leg I ended up with my esc under my servo aft, the battery butting against the ESC aft, and I cut off fwd end of the box!

To get the COG where you want it you may end up with the ESC on top of the battery to get the weight aft.

[jim82]

Looking good Tim.. With the steering cable on my VS-1 I used Loctite 638.. On the ball link or just plain clevis you can use either but I would use the ball link you can make more adjustments with less bind..

[tlandauer]

looks sweet! ive always wanted to drive an outboard boat

Thanks, I love how they ride on the water and seeing the motor out side is cool too. The outboard really gives me a feeling of machinary, lol...

[tlandauer]

I just redid the radio box for mine so I could fit a t180 in it.If it was a nose hair wider the cowl wouldn't fit. I put the servo up front and used cables with clevises on the servo end and ball links on the motor end. Soldering cable can be a real pita. Use lots of and lots of flux. I found a soldering iron worked better than a torch. I couldn't get the flame low enough and the solder just dripped off. I actually ran my cables out through the sides of the box about 2in from the servo instead of running them out the back. Im using 6s packs and the cable were a pain inside the box.

6s and t180ESC! Which tunnel are you running? Must be blazingly fast!
I plan to run my cable outside too, I just haven't decided at where it will enter: Plan A is to enter in the rear where the ESC is, the brass tubes will go in at a slight gentle angle and will put rubber belows on inside, then the cable will go to the servo. Plan B is to enter near where the servo is, but I like this better because there will be nothing inside to bother loading/unloading the battery. This means the brass tube will run longer and therefore heavier, I am also trying to save every gram of weight, so in the end I need to think which will be the most weight saving.
Thanks for the heads-up on soldering!

[tlandauer]

lookin good tim! do you have any vids of your other tunnels?

Thanks, Heving Earth!
I unfortunately don't have any videos of these two, in fact, don't have much video on any of my boats. Why??? Ask Lenny, he will tell you why!!
Seriously, I go alone and I can't drive and video at the same time , ( Lenny will be more than happy to clarify on that for you). I beached my Mean Machine twice during her maiden and I wasn't even holding a video cam.
Hopefully during the summer i can drag my 12 yr. daughter to shoot some vid!

[tlandauer]

Nice Work!
If I were to do-over I too would move the servo forward.

I found the recommended CG of 7.5 to 8.5 worked for me. Weight too far fwd and it hooked and dove.
With my light REK leg I ended up with my esc under my servo aft, the battery butting against the ESC aft, and I cut off fwd end of the box!

To get the COG where you want it you may end up with the ESC on top of the battery to get the weight aft.

Thanks, I did study your picures MANY MANY times and I liked what you did. I also like the shape of your box but mine ended up kind of square.
I am planning to leave enough clearance below the ESC should I find it necessary to move the battery that far back. Thanks for the tip!