He did say 4-8 layers.
It looks like about .8 sqM to me, as it is on CAD will your computer not tell you what its surface area is? Using 200gsm cloth and with a 50/50 cloth to resin ratio which should be achievable for vacuum infusion it should be about 320g per layer, 1280g for 4 layers or 2560g for 8 layers. if you are looking at a many layered layup you may want to consider heavier cloth for some of it, I can get 600gsm carbon for less than 50% more cost than 200gsm as you would have needed 3m of the 200gsm for the same bulk it is less than half the price, it has big tows and you will get print through if used on the surface but 2 layers of 200gsm then 2x 600gsm and 1x200gsm will give a hull stronger than 8 layers of 200gsm for less than the price of 6.
It's just 1.5lb EPS foam. I probably should have told the foam place to use something stiffer and more dense because It's not as detailed as I wanted it to be. But hey it's a learning process.
Reason I am going with 3K CF is because I want the cloth to wrap around the strakes and steps perfectly. A heavier cloth is less malleable, so that becomes more difficult. To save a bit of money, I changed to just 2 layers of CF. They will most likely be the outer layers. And a few (# undetermined) layers of fiberglass will fill the inside for more rigidity.
Anyone know the most effective pattern of CF and FG. I was also thinking about sandwiching the FG in the CF but I'm not sure.
If you think it's absolutely necessary to use some heavier cloth and don't think it will cause problems in the steps, I could get another layer. It's actually the same price for 12k as the 3k. Glass is like 1/5 the cost though, so I can add-layer it up considerably cheaper that way, which is preferred.
This is the way I make my bulletproof saw cf riggers: first laywer done with 130g fiberglass to avoid air bubbles and easy to contour details,wait about an hour to start the cf 180g 4 laywers and if you want an even stronger boat you can end up the hand lay up with one hibrid c.f/kevlar cloth.I had some very bad blow overs during fast straight passes with almost no injuries to my hull .Hope this help Gill
90 & 45 degrees is the most effective. Plain weave is the stiffest cloth, Twill softer and Harness is the most flexible.
If you want to save a few bucks try 2 layers 6 oz. carbon, 2 layers of 6 oz. glass then 2 more layers of carbon. Think I beam.
I was looking at this type of hulls I found a nice one that I thought would make for a nice brushless boat. http://www.horracing.com/product_inf...roducts_id=232 that and some nice hardware from hor as well. I will look at running his motors as I like them as well. I have 3 motor that are the SSS5694 and 2 SSS3674 they make great power and the cost is fair. Same goes for the hardware. You can spend more for your boats, but why? You still have to build them for what they are going to be used for.
twissted from speed. Lead, fallow or get out of the way. Copy cats in back of the buss!!!
Trust me, I know there are cheaper ways to get a R/C boat. But this is a learning experience. Buying a hull and installing the parts wouldn't be worth it. Building the boat is where the fun is at, and learning something along the way is valuable too.
When used as an inner layer, innegra make a laminate that is tougher than a laminate of CF - FG - CF, and innegra is lighter too.
Innegra is 0.84 G/cc
FG (s-glass) is 2.44-2.48 g/cc
You could end up with a stiffer, and lighter hull.
This is the route I plan on going for my custom hull.
The hull has been sent out to the foam cutter. I should have a physical model within the week.
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Where is the foam cutter service?
Is there a link?
How much did that cost you?
Cheetah, Super Rio, (Mod) Starship (Mod and sold),
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