carbon fiber lay

[Rhadieselp]

i just bought from kintec z poxy 40, and some carbon fiber cloth. I was going to do a single layer in genesis, and MG.
One for strength as-well as looks. I found this video on youtube. i have been trying to figure out how to do this correctly searched through the forum but could not find a DIY. Is this a way to apply it for these boats or I'm i way off? If anyone has video or, a picture processes with some details i would really appreciate it.

[Boadey]

I too would love to read something explaining the "correct" way to do this. I am new to fe boats and I'm getting the itch to start customizing my BJ29 , not new to rc but definitely new to boats. Looking forward to learning from those of you with the knowledge thanks

[Boadey]

Wow I really would have thought there would be a how to write up this.......searched and found nothing.....this kinda sux I really dont want to guinney pig my fresh new hull , or give it a shot based on the limited info I have found ( most of which I might add were contradictory of one another)
If one you experienced guys have the time could you please provide the forum a wire up? I'm sure a lot of others would love to have this as well, thanks

[larryrose11]

There are a variety of techniques people use. 3 basics approach,
1. Wet layup, just put it in. Pro: easy. Con: chance of insufficient bonding, heavier due to extra epoxy
2. Wet layup, compression molding. Pro: great bond, squeezes some of the extra epoxy out. Con: mode difficult, requires peel ply fabric.
3. Vacuumed bagging: Superior bond, conforming to complex shapes, 80% fiber content by weight. Cons: complex, requires 20 inches of vacuum minimum, extra materials (peel ply, breather material, vacuum bag, mastic….), super slow cure epoxy, like West Systems 105/207, which are expensive.

I found a method that works great for home use is compression molding, using foam blocks and wood board to mechanically clamp
For good compression molding:
- Fully wet the surface. This ensures there are NO VOIDS between the CF layers.
- Mechanical clamping: you must do this for a strong part. the CF likes to move on ya when wet. It is much more springy than fiberglass, and it does not like going around corners. If you bonding it to a inside of a hull, then cut stiff foam to fit where the CF is going to fit, and put a piece of plywood on the back to serve as a support for the c clamps.
- a porus releasing film: I use a Peel Ply Release Fabric. The film let the extra matrix squish out from the CF when ya clamp it. I also have put a paper towel on top of the release film to absorb the extra matrix, so it doesn’t just leak out all over the place.

To review, The layers are:
1. Supported Part to bond to or mold with a film.
2. CF wetted with epoxy, as others have listed
3. Release Fabric
4. Paper towel to absorbe extra matrix
5. stiff foam
6. Wood backing to clamp
But all of these layers in a bunch of C clamps, and clamp it down hard for 24 hrs.
This will ensure that the CF layers are close to one another, and all the extra matrix it squished out, making it light and strong.
After your done, and take off the peel ply layer, the CF will look completely mat.
You can use a small amount of mixed epoxy on a paper towlel, rubbed over the surface, and it will look great.

So, I know that this is a lot, but if you want to use CF to be strong, not just pretty, then compression molding works.

[egneg]

I made a paper template of the shape I needed for my hull. I then put masking tape on the cloth leaving about 1/8 inch inside of the template. I cut out the shape with the 1/8 inch tape left on the edges to keep it from fraying. I then did a final fitting tape side down. Satisfied with the fit I sprayed the underside (tape side) with a adhesive spray and let it tack up so I could reposition it if needed. I then layed the cloth into the hull and used a small foam paint roller to smooth it out and and work it into all the corners and bends. I then used finishing resin to wet the cloth with a 1 inch paint brush. I did 2 coats, the first was used to lock down the cloth and the second was to give it a smooth wet look. Here are 2 pictures, the first is after it was put in with the adhesive spray on the underside, and the second is the finished job.

S5000142.JPGS5000152.JPG

[larryrose11]

egneg,
Did you weigh the hull before and after?

[egneg]

No I didn't. I am running a Neu 2230 1Y on 10S2P.

[Boadey]

Outstanding!! Thanks for the posts fellas if anyone else would like to contribute to this, that would be great. A lot of the nice hull lay ups I've seen all seem to have a couple things in common (besides being done by KBB) the carbon fiber lay up has almost a flat appearance to it? If you look at the cut panels used over esc's and such, there is a clear contrast between the fiber that was layed and that from a panel cut to shape and mounted. Does anyone have any insight as to the technique used for this result. Thanks again to those who have contributed and please help out if you have some experience to share.

[Cooper]

Well every situation is different , sort of,,,, sometimes the surface is wetted with resin then the cloth laid on, then wetted again. Then squeegee excess resin off as the excess resin just adds weight and not strength. Some apply another layer to get a smoother look like said above.
Sometimes just scuffing the surface (for a good bond) then laying in the cloth then wetting. Again rolling and removing excess resin.
I've also used the spray adhesive (go with a very light mist, doesn't take much) for some places the cloth doesn't like to stay put. The basic concept you are trying to do is adding another layer for strength, it will be stronger if it has a good solid bond with surface you are coating.
As far as edges, tape, spray adhesive, a layer of light fg cloth applied with adhesive, sewing a thread on the perimeter, are all different ways to keep clean edges. A general idea on resins, the longer they take to cure the stronger they are. (Finishing resin)
So the ideal DIY for lay up is pretty varied, as these are just a few ideas. Keith at kbb has done some phenomenal carbon and fiberglass layups. As many other members also. It's also a good idea to make sure you have everything cut, fit, tools, clean up stuff, readily available. As I always end up wearing resin. Good luck and look through the builds section for some more ideas.
The flat shiny plates of cf are just that, pre manufactured plates that come in various thicknesses.

[Heaving Earth]

Use rubbing alcohol to get that pesky epoxy off hands and places you don't want it btw

[grsboats]

The panels you are referring are made via RTM (resin transfer molds) In this case the resin is injected in closed molds with the fiber inside under pressure so they look diferent than the ones hand laid up or vacum bagged.Gill

[jcald2000]

Do not use Finishing resin for laminating, or any hobby store resin, they are all designed for sealing wood and have 1/2 the strength and are brittle compared to laminating resin. West is much better, the longer the cure the stronger the bond.