Modifiing a Phil Thomas Stealth (Vs. #1) to be NAMBA legal

[longballlumber]

I again used West Systems, but this time I used a thickening filler (peanut butter consistency) to keep it from running. I also used a disposable syringe again cutting off the tip as a applicator for the thickened epoxy so it would go exactly where I wanted it.

[longballlumber]

After sanding (I hate sanding) the filler back down it was time to lay some cloth over the balsa. I am going to use 1.4oz fiberglass. I taped up the area with masking tape. I did this to better control where the resin and glass would be glued to the hull. It was a good idea, but it didn’t work as well as I planned. Once both side were “wetted” I could lay down my glass pieces and slowly brush out the air pockets and make sure the cloth was completely saturated with the West Systems.

[longballlumber]

After a few hours and the epoxy has cured, but not completely hard. I went back and removed the taped area. Again the process didn’t work as well as I wanted, but I think it can be refined to work a little better. Next time I will “trim” or score the tape line with an exacto knife before pulling the tape. After letting it set over night and fully cure, I sanded the glass edges by hand with 180 grit to blend into the hull. This will help hide the edges of the glass too. It didn’t turn out too bad.

[longballlumber]

With the balsa being as soft as it is, I went ahead and added another layer of cloth this morning extending out the overall surface of the glassed area. I am hoping the larger glassed area will help with blending in the seams into the original hull surface making it difficult to see there was any material added once it’s painted. That’s where it sits now!

[longballlumber]

Woah! Mike! I can't believe you are messing with that boat! That thing ran beautifully!!!! Looks like you are doing a great job as usual though.

Just out of curiousity....how far up are you moving the motor? ....and where does your stuffing tube exit the bottom of the hull?

Thanks,
Pete

Hey Pete,

Here are the measurements you were asking for. I am going to move the motor pretty far forward. Hopefully this will allow me to the boat boat "fly" a little more without it blowing over.

[ray schrauwen]

That is one helluva lot of work to make a hull fit a rule. Nice work mind you... you have great skills my friend!

[phil t]

On my boat Ihave the back of the motor about 13 1/2 from the transom. The batteries fit ahead of the motor. With the standard UL1 motor/esc It is steady on the water running about 40-45.
How about adding some ridepads about 1/8 over hang on the back and insides, it would give the hull more lift and run free on the water, it would make the pads about 1 3/4 wide, I would still keep the left outside edge angled.

[longballlumber]

On my boat Ihave the back of the motor about 13 1/2 from the transom. The batteries fit ahead of the motor. With the standard UL1 motor/esc.

Before I stated these modifications, my motor was at 13" from the transom to the back of the motor.

My packs will too be in the front of the boat and the controller can nicely tuck under the motor.

It is steady on the water running about 40-45.

It's my opinion this is one of the most competitive classes we have in the club. I am going to guess that you need to be 45 or better with a great running hull to do well in our club or any of the races around us. My eagle tree data has shown my hull/UL-1 motor and prop combo running Hi 40's (near 50) and pulling 80-90 amps. I really think I am going to need to be a tick better than years past because of the others rasing the bar.

How about adding some ridepads about 1/8 over hang on the back and insides, it would give the hull more lift and run free on the water, it would make the pads about 1 3/4 wide, I would still keep the left outside edge angled.

Before I started these modification the hull ran very good, but I did need to run the strut real deep. I was also putting a decent amount of lead at/near the CG to help with the boat blowing off. My idea is to try and move the motor mount forward near 2" so that I can run the strut depth much shallower. If that doesn't get the boat lose enough, I will try the ride pad suggestion.

I still have some non-trip at the transom with still making the legal transom width.

Later,
Mike Ball

[phil t]

Which motor and type prop works for you? So now the back of the motor will be at 11"? Sorry i mean 15"
I was refering to the non trip edge of the front sponson.

[longballlumber]

Which motor and type prop works for you? So now the back of the motor will be at 11"? I was refering to the non trip edge of the front sponson.

Hi Phil,

I will be moving the motor forward meaning it will be aproximatly 15" from the transom to the back of the motor... See last picture in post 20. Last season, I had the boat running pretty good with the UL-1 motor (2030Kv), AquaCraft 60amp controller, GrimRacer 5000mAh lipos, running an ABC H5 prop.

The last club race of the season, I put in an 1800Kv motor (AquaCraft) and tried an ABC H7. That setup showed some promise. I am going to try running the 1800Kv this season.

Later

[phil t]

Hi Phil,

I will be moving the motor forward meaning it will be aproximatly 15" from the transom to the back of the motor... See last picture in post 20. Last season, I had the boat running pretty good with the UL-1 motor (2030Kv), AquaCraft 60amp controller, GrimRacer 5000mAh lipos, running an ABC H5 prop.

The last club race of the season, I put in an 1800Kv motor (AquaCraft) and tried an ABC H7. That setup showed some promise. I am going to try running the 1800Kv this season.



Later

I have both those motors Have not used the H5 or 7 props Sorry i meant to say 15" counting the wrong way HA

[Shooter]

Mike, that looks great, and thanks for the measurements.

Yep, speeds are getting ridiculous......as long as the motors/wires don't burn up. During testing my boat was running low 50's with that 1717 prop and all the weight removed, but it didn't like rough water for some reason. Mike's boat was faster, even in the rougher water, and that lower KV motor is going to blow the doors off me!!

Regarding motor placement, I moved mine WAY up front late last year. It never blew over again, but it just never ran the same (topped at around 51mph) and I had some strange 'sounds' in the driveline. I've since ripped everything out and plan to make a real gradual angle to the strut....essentially no bend. Might be getting towards the limit of how long you can run a flex without some sort of thrust bearing at the prop end?!

I'm real worried about how far up front my exit hole in the hull is. You can see in the photo where I glassed over the old one.

SAM_1349r.jpg

[ray schrauwen]

I'm surprised you don't run a wire drive at this point.

I was curious about trying the 1800kv AQ motor too and might just give it a try.

Mike, that looks great, and thanks for the measurements.

Yep, speeds are getting ridiculous......as long as the motors/wires don't burn up. During testing my boat was running low 50's with that 1717 prop and all the weight removed, but it didn't like rough water for some reason. Mike's boat was faster, even in the rougher water, and that lower KV motor is going to blow the doors off me!!

Regarding motor placement, I moved mine WAY up front late last year. It never blew over again, but it just never ran the same (topped at around 51mph) and I had some strange 'sounds' in the driveline. I've since ripped everything out and plan to make a real gradual angle to the strut....essentially no bend. Might be getting towards the limit of how long you can run a flex without some sort of thrust bearing at the prop end?!

I'm real worried about how far up front my exit hole in the hull is. You can see in the photo where I glassed over the old one.

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[longballlumber]

Testing and modifying is what we do, and there is more than one way to skin a cat! As you know, I am a fan (and believer) that a flex cable and an “S” bend works well. The longer your stuffing tube is the longer the “S” is going to be…

Your motor looks to be a little further than mine will end up, but I do have lead in the tips of my sponsons. I have got to get this thing done. First club race is 2 weeks away. I won’t have paint on mine, not at this point.

[longballlumber]

I'm surprised you don't run a wire drive at this point.

I was curious about trying the 1800kv AQ motor too and might just give it a try.

I think with the proper set up (strut, turn fin, and prop) you can be just as competitive as the 2030kV motor. Ray, do you think a wire has a competitive advantage over a flex cable? Personally, I have never tried using a wire in anything.