After laying in the cloth pressing corners and squeegee the excess resin I laid wax paper over (resin will not stick to unbroken wax paper) hatch and clamped a wooden template so I will end up with a small lip, gap , to accommodate foam seal.
And added one light coat of filler (pc 11 marine paste epoxy) to smooth out where the scoop was. After that dried I sanded down. It's hard to get the pic but it is smooth and ready for paint.
One of the parts I hate! I don't know what the white semi hard pad is in the rudder support but whatever it is it isn't flush. And the seam glue was mounded up. In order for a better lay of reinforcing I ground this material down somewhat flush. It doesn't look pretty but it's getting covered with carbon plate and carbon Kevlar weave. These are the pics of before and how I go about doing it. I backlight so I don't have to worry about holding light and use a flex shaft grinding tool.
I had the same issue is my Fantasm hull. Instead of using a cf plate like I wanted, I used layers cf cloth and built the area up around the excess seam glue.
Looking good!
"There's nothing else I really want to do other than get up and build boats." - Mike Fiore
On my Rivercat SAW boat I flooded the entire transom with Locktite Hysol Aerospace Epoxy. It made that transom extension extremely strong. So much so that I had a blow over that bent the heck out of the rudder and strut. To make matters worst, I had to take a pair of channel locks to the strut to straignten it back out. To this day she doesn't even have a stress fracture in the gelcoat.
On my Rivercat SAW boat I flooded the entire transom with Locktite Hysol Aerospace Epoxy. It made that transom extension extremely strong. So much so that I had a blow over that bent the heck out of the rudder and strut. To make matters worst, I had to take a pair of channel locks to the strut to straignten it back out. To this day she doesn't even have a stress fracture in the gelcoat.
I was thinking of doing the same, did that much epoxy add much weight?
I wanted to do the same but with this hull the rudder support, I think , is too deep. I think it would add too much weight. On my ekos/river I did the same thing as you described. I usually don't run a shear bolt, just tight rudder, but the one and only time I did I hit something! (should have known-usually used nylon but this time I used the brass!). And it broke pretty good but not completely apart so that is why I did that to the king. I think I ended with a plate completely across the transom, never had a problem since. --we run in the river, usually clean water but the occasional carp, turtle, stick, always something unforeseen. -- I even thought of chopping down the rudder mounting area on this hul so I could do that but I think it was just going to be too much more work unnecessary. Plus I would have to fing really long bolts.
I use this "blade runner" saw with a ceramic blade to cut cf. I have just about every saw from work but for the hobby stuff this little saw has proved itself. I use a rather high tec gadget for fitting pieces.
Then the tape comes off and a little dab of ca so I can place it. I used simple 5min epoxy with fiberglass filler. Whatever was oozing out the sides I smeared over the rough areas as it will be a touch smoother for laying cloth. And the dot in the middle is where the high-tec tool parted, epoxy was setting quick. I did stuff the cf sheet but not much as its getting covered.
Hello Cooper, build looks good. I like the attention to detail. It's those details that make a difference. I am about to do a similar build, with the same fg hull. No real speed goals other than to have fun with it. Following your thread. Alan
Thanks Alan and welcome to the forum! I have several months before I can hit the water so paying attention to detail kinda stretches out the build time. It would be torture if I was done and everything frozen! Lol!!!
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