Painting with a spray gun...first time..

[Richie the shipwright]

Chris dude....think you got your wires crossed somewhere... Wasnt me that suggested an airbrush. Have another read.... The touchup gun i suggested has the trigger on top of the gun...(LIKE AN AIRBRUSH). Electric.....Listen to heaving earth he is 100% on the money.

[electric]

Here are the starting pictures. Actually, the boat was purchase for 20 dollars and had stickers all over it and had cracked gelcoat from a pretty bad accident. I took off all of the stickers and sanded everything down. The nose is pretty 'off' and at one point the someone poured in quite a bit of epoxy in there. I tried to level out the nose a bit and took out all of the cracks. I also put two pieces of carbon fiber underneath to strengthen the upper deck since it was quite thin. This boat will be raced in a club class which requires you race 2s with a x440 prop and a Feigao 7l motor. In it's day this was a very competitive boat and was made in Australia. Good boat to practice my painting on.

I built a temporary paint booth from pvc pipe today also. Will takes some pics of that when I get it all ready to go next weekend.

[electric]

Progress Update..I have most of the paint in now and here is the painting plan per House of Kolor steps. A WHOLE lot of reading of spec sheets went on. I am going to layout the plans so others may comment and also have a few questions. Sorry for the details, just getting a summarized plan together.

1. KD 3002 Primer (plus Catalyst and Reducer)
Sand boat with 320 grit dry, wipe off with denatured alchol and then apply 2 to 3 coats of primer. Let dry for 24 hours.
Bought grey primer (kd 3000) first, but then realized they make a white primer and thought it would be better to get that since the bottom and parts of the top will be white. ($50.00 mistake, will use the grey on next boat)
Bought touch up Gun 1mm, but then read on the Tech sheet that they recommend 1.8mm, so I compromised and ordered a 1.5mm gun. Seems to be a consesus to paint with something between 1.4 and 1.8??
Bought the fastest drying reducer (65 - 70degrees)
2. Apply White Base Coat
Wet Sand primer coat 400 - 500 grit, clean with denatured alchol (Interesting to me that HOK tech sheets are okay with sanding dry or wet, different grits for each way though)
Paint is premixed for spray gun HOK paint, bought two 4oz bottles of it. (tcpglobal.com)
3. Apply Intercoat SG100 InterCoat
This goes on right after the White Base and is designed to allow taping with out pulling up paint
Wait 1 hour to dry and tape. (REALLY, this part un-nerves me. The spec sheet states you can tape after 1 hour and then go right to the second color...worried the paint will just pull up with the tape)
4. Tape off for second color
5. Apply second color (purple)
6. Remove Tape after purple is put down
7. Immedietly go to spray on Klear (UC35 Kosmic Klear)
This needs to be applied inside of 4 hours and I will do roughly 3 or 4 layers
8. Let Dry
9. Polish

First let me say, wow, this paint is expensive. I now understand what the material costs must be for a painter. I also was suprised at how once you start putting the base color down you pretty much don't stop until you are all the way through to the clear coat. No sanding in between so long as you stay within the time frames recommended.

I am going to start assembling my spray booth and will show pictures of that contraption. It involves air conditioner filters, fan, pvc and lots of plastic sheeting.

Again, if you see anything that concerns you please comment, I am learning as I go, and I am posting this to try and avoid making any major mistakes.

[Chrisg81983]

Interested in seeing the progress and spray booth that you made it sounds real cool thanks

[Heaving Earth]

Progress Update..I have most of the paint in now and here is the painting plan per House of Kolor steps. A WHOLE lot of reading of spec sheets went on. I am going to layout the plans so others may comment and also have a few questions. Sorry for the details, just getting a summarized plan together.

1. KD 3002 Primer (plus Catalyst and Reducer)
Sand boat with 320 grit dry, wipe off with denatured alchol and then apply 2 to 3 coats of primer. Let dry for 24 hours.
Bought grey primer (kd 3000) first, but then realized they make a white primer and thought it would be better to get that since the bottom and parts of the top will be white. ($50.00 mistake, will use the grey on next boat)
Bought touch up Gun 1mm, but then read on the Tech sheet that they recommend 1.8mm, so I compromised and ordered a 1.5mm gun. Seems to be a consesus to paint with something between 1.4 and 1.8??
Bought the fastest drying reducer (65 - 70degrees)
2. Apply White Base Coat
Wet Sand primer coat 400 - 500 grit, clean with denatured alchol (Interesting to me that HOK tech sheets are okay with sanding dry or wet, different grits for each way though)
Paint is premixed for spray gun HOK paint, bought two 4oz bottles of it. (tcpglobal.com)
3. Apply Intercoat SG100 InterCoat
This goes on right after the White Base and is designed to allow taping with out pulling up paint
Wait 1 hour to dry and tape. (REALLY, this part un-nerves me. The spec sheet states you can tape after 1 hour and then go right to the second color...worried the paint will just pull up with the tape)
4. Tape off for second color
5. Apply second color (purple)
6. Remove Tape after purple is put down
7. Immedietly go to spray on Klear (UC35 Kosmic Klear)
This needs to be applied inside of 4 hours and I will do roughly 3 or 4 layers
8. Let Dry
9. Polish

First let me say, wow, this paint is expensive. I now understand what the material costs must be for a painter. I also was suprised at how once you start putting the base color down you pretty much don't stop until you are all the way through to the clear coat. No sanding in between so long as you stay within the time frames recommended.

I am going to start assembling my spray booth and will show pictures of that contraption. It involves air conditioner filters, fan, pvc and lots of plastic sheeting.

Again, if you see anything that concerns you please comment, I am learning as I go, and I am posting this to try and avoid making any major mistakes.

Ok so a 1.5 is ok. Maybe a bit heavy so be careful on the base and clear, and prolly a little small for primer so do like 5 coats. 1.2 - 1.4 is best for base/ clear, 1.8 for primers.
Wet or dry sand is fine. I prefer dry cause you can just blow it off. Wet makes sludge that gets in every crack and is tougher to get out.dry dry dry for me.
Dont sand basecoat. Sand primer then just go. Sanding basecoat is only when you've made a mistake.
I assume the intercoat is a clear basecoat, so if something does peel, it's not color coat. Not familiar with house of colors, just guessing based on what ppg and others do it that way.
Use vinyl tape to get cleanest edges.
Hour dry time is fine. If you're uncomfortable with that add some heat to make sure paint is dry.
Yes once you start it's best to just keep going.
Good luck man

[electric]

Ok so a 1.5 is ok. Maybe a bit heavy so be careful on the base and clear, and prolly a little small for primer so do like 5 coats. 1.2 - 1.4 is best for base/ clear, 1.8 for primers.
I could use the touch up gun which is a 1.0mm for the clear and base if you think that is a better way to go than using the 1.5 gun? I might be willing to buy yet another gun (1.2mm - 1.4mm) if you think it is worth the money to go ahead and get it right.
Wet or dry sand is fine. I prefer dry cause you can just blow it off. Wet makes sludge that gets in every crack and is tougher to get out.dry dry dry for me. Then I will go with dry, I prefer that as well.
Dont sand basecoat. Sand primer then just go. Sanding basecoat is only when you've made a mistake.
I assume the intercoat is a clear basecoat, so if something does peel, it's not color coat.You are correct, it is like clear coat that has a matt finish that is designed to prevent pulling up the color base coat when doing artwork. Thanks for pointing out that if it does pull up it will just be the clear coat, thus protecting the base color. Makes sense and makes me feel better about the process. Not familiar with house of colors, just guessing based on what ppg and others do it that way.
Use vinyl tape to get cleanest edges.
Hour dry time is fine. If you're uncomfortable with that add some heat to make sure paint is dry.
Yes once you start it's best to just keep going.
Good luck man Really, that is all I have is luck? Chuckle. This is why I picked a small cheap boat so that I am not too crushed if it does not go well and it gives me a good learning platform. I am starting a build on a "big" Q hydro next week and that's the one where I want a "perfect" gloss paint job on.

xxx

[Heaving Earth]

haha im sure youll do fine. its a learning curve for sure.
the 1.5 may do just fine. generally a 1.4 is the most common for base/clearcoats, but there are those 1.3 and 1.2 out there. the difference is gonna be the how large or small the atomized droplets are. smaller tip is gonna give smaller peel. larger tip is gonna give heavy peel. give your gun a try on a test piece and see if you like it. i always grab a panel of something to test new guns before i just start spraying.

[electric]

Getting closer to painting time. I hope to get the primer on tomorrow(Thursday) and then paint the boat on Monday when I am back in town. Here are some pics of the paint booth. Amazing what you can build with pvc pipe, duct tape, and plastic. I have a filter up top for inbound air and then a fan with a filter on it to pull the air out on the bottom. My hope is that the filter on the outflow air will keep most all of the paint confined within the paint area. Really has a good flow to it. I think even a lower setting on the fan will be fine. The paper on the floor I got at home depot for $10.00. The fan was like $17. I would guess maybe $50 for the whole thing. The nice thing is I can break it down (did not glue the pipe) and then re-use it as needed with the only cost being some new plastic and a roll of tape.

Oh and one pic of the next project, a gp400 "Q" hydro arrived today.

[electric]

few more pics..

[egneg]

Wow is all I can say!
The 1.5 is not ideal for the primer but can be used if you know how to set up the gun properly. The 1.0 detail gun is good for BC/CC only. You need to practice on sign blanks or some other suitable hard surface long before you try painting the boat. You need to do your research and know how to handle problems (and you will have problems), this is what separates the beginners from the pros. The number one problem when painting is lack of proper preparation. If this isn’t right nothing can save the paint job. The paint guns need to be setup right and have the proper cigar shape pattern or you will have garbage as well. House of Kolor (HOK) is very good and the intercoat can save you from starting over. The CC is the hardest to get right as it’s really a 3 part system so pay close attention when measuring out the different parts. The reducer you have is very hot (should have gotten the medium) and is not forgiving if you get it wrong. The most important thing is preparation!!! Most all problems are due to improper preparation.
The airbrush is fine for artwork but should NOT be used for general painting.
The paint you selected is about the best there is but good quality painting is an art form and takes time to master. There are forums dedicated to this subject as I belong to a few and have been painting for many years.
Good luck – you will need it.

[electric]

Wow? As in a good thing right? I hope. Chuckle. Well, like I said this boat is a "test" boat (twenty dollar boat) so it will make a good learning boat. Thanks for the advice. I do plan to work with the gun on some scrap surfaces a bit to get comfortable with it. I may break down and buy a 1.8mm gun on my drive home as you are the second person that has told me a 1.5mm will work, but is pushing it. I do realize that there is a huge learning curve and a lot of information to digest. I am trying to read as much as I can and look at youtube video's to eliminate issues as much as possible, but I guess at some point you just learn by doing. The reducer seemed right only because of the cooler tempertures, but I will note that the medium is better to use. Do you think the 1.0mm gun will work better for the BC/CC coats than the 1.5mm? I appear to be very adept at buying the wrong paint guns. I know that Harbor Freight has a two gun package on sale(have the coupon with me) for 44.99 that has , 1.4mm, 1.8mm that has good reviews.
http://www.harborfreight.com/profess...kit-94572.html

[egneg]

What you have will work - no need to buy more stuff except for a good respirator (a must for the primer and CC).

[electric]

What you have will work - no need to buy more stuff except for a good respirator (a must for the primer and CC).

OK. Yes, I do have a (3M) high quality respirator(the kind with two filters and full mask).

[electric]

Well, I sprayed the primer. Overall it went very well. I did break down and buy the 1.8mm gun and I am glad I did because I think it layed down better with that. I was painting at about 35lbs of pressure and it seemed to go well. There are some runs where I tried to lay it on to thick to cover my bondo work rather than being patient and waiting for the next coat to do it, but no big deal because of course I can sand it out. A few problem areas showed up as well which will need a little bit of work, but pretty happy with it.

Let's talk about the stink. Wow. My really good mask must work because I was not aware of the smell level until I got done and pulled the mask off and the smell will knock you down. I quickly dug up some fans and have them going full blast to air out the garage. Luckily I had about a one hour lead time before my wife got home to lower the level of smell.

[Heaving Earth]

You really shouldnt be spraying in the house buddy. It's Gonna smell bigtime.