56" Cat. My First Boat build!

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Products
1 x 8mm - 1/4" stainless steel collet for dual motor setup US $22.00
2 x SSS 5694 1200kv 6 pole brushless motor with water cool US $210.00
2 x 1/4" flexible cable with stub shaft 400mm long US $28.00
1 x Vertical servo mount Version 2 US $10.00
1 x Aluminum rudder (150mm) US $50.00
1 x Stainless steel M5 x 25mm hex socket screw x 10 unit US $1.40
1 x Stainless steel M4 x 18mm hex socket screw x 10 unit US $0.99
1 x Stainless steel M5 5mm nylon lock nut x 10 unit US $0.28
2 x Waterproof push rod rubber seal bellow with aluminum fitting US $6.00
1 x Aluminum stinger 1/4" shaft for catamaran US $120.00
2 x Aluminum cowl locks version 3 US $22.00
2 x Aluminum water pickup flush type dual US $11.00
2 x M5 brass water nipple US $2.00
1 x Water outlet large US $2.30
1 x Teflon tube 4mm 4m long US $10.00
2 x 6.35mm (.25 or 1/4") drive dog stainless steel US $6.40
Shopping list for build

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This is a shot of the 42" cat next to the 56" cat.

Started making motor mounts with 4mm thick graphite

lots of repairs, while doing the build. This is why you buy the hull in a store so that you get a good hull. This one is one that needs a ton of repairs!
Making the hull stronger with webbing.
The center brace in the nose is 1/4 playwood that has fiberglass matt on both sides it was added after I shaped the plywood and I left 1'' matt on the edges to make a strong bond to the hull.

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Opps It got posted twice.

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Boat load of parts!

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My first boat build


roughed in the motor mounts.

This is the stearing servo mount. All parts are being bonded to hull with 30 min. epoxy.

Stingers use the 1/4" shafts. I will need to have the ends milled down to fit the props.


Motors are mounted!
getting ready to bend the 11/32 tubing. The wire around the tubing is to keep the tubing from crushing while bending.

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S/S PROP SHOP 5517/3 C/R set of castings that I found on ebay.

[TristanJones]

Awesome build!! Hope this works out well for you. I watch with keen interest.

[Cooper]

Going pretty good! Get the batteries in there with all hardware now so you have a general idea of center of gravity. I'm not positive where this hull likes to be but a general spot is 30% from the back foreward from the ride pads. And keep in mind that where you place the batteries you might want to move front or back depending on prop, water conditions, ect. In my opinion once you have the stuffing tubes in the hard part is over!

[Doug Smock]

Looking good Jack!

[Cooper]

Boat load of parts!

Lol , original :) (boat load of parts!!!)

[MrUnlimited]

Where did you buy the Flier esc and what amp are they rated?

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thx. Haves lots to do still. The cables that came with the rudder is got me wondering how they install. I also was wondering if the stuffing tube goes all the way in the stingers untill it stops. If this is the case then it will stick out about 3.5 inches past the holes I drilled. I seems to me that it would other that making stinger ajustments harder. but once I got it right it would make the cable flex less and also make the stingers stonger. Do I use silicone to seal the hardware from leaking inside? Also The 1/4" cables need to be turned down to fit the 3/16 prop holes. I with that I didn't have to do that. I hope the motors don't snap the shafts. Also because the hull was so bad. That lots of the gel coat is missing. I need to fix this. Do I add epoxy to the inside to make up for what was sanded off? I have more webing that will add strength to the sides as well. I also bought hatch fasteners and need to know what is needed to make a good seal? I could use some help with this if you you like?
Also I found that some people use WHITE MARINE-TEX HEAVY DUTY STRUCTURAL EPOXY.

SIZE: 2 OZ PACKAGE

COLOR: WHITE

"HANDLES LIKE PUTTY, HARDENS LIKE STEEL AND SANDS LIKE WOOD"

THE MIGHTY REPAIR KIT

MARINE TEX LICKS THE TOUGHEST REPAIR PROBLEMS FROM LEAKY HULLS TO CRACKED WATER JACKETS * FORMS TENACIOUS BOND TO FIBERGLASS, METAL, GLASS, MANY PLASTICS, HARD AND SOFT WOODS, PLYWOOD AND PORCELAIN * CURES TO HIGH STRENGTH REPAIR; COMPRESSIVE STRENGTH IN EXCESS OF 13,000 PSI * NONMAGNETIC * NON CORROSIVE * NON-RUSTING * WATERPROOF * IMPERVIOUS TO DIESEL FUEL AND MANY COMMON ACIDS, ALKALIES, SOLVENTS AND CHEMICALS.

MARINE-TEX SIMPLIFIES THE MOST DIFFICULT REPAIR OR RESTORATION PROJECT. MARINE-TEX IS A HEAVY-DUTY STRUCTURAL EPOXY. THIS EASY TO USE PUTTY CAN BE MOLDED TO ANY SHAPE. CAN BE APPLIED TO VERTICAL AND OVERHEAD SURFACES. FEATHERS SMOOTH AS GLASS. BONDS TO PROPERLY PREPARED WOOD, STEEL, ALUMINUM, MOST PLASTICS. PERMANENTLY JOINS DISSIMILAR MATERIALS WITHOUT GALVANIC ACTION. FAST, EASY REPAIRS FOR JET SKIS, SAIL BOARDS, SURF BOARDS. CAN BE DRILLED, THREADED, SANDED, PAINTED.

MARINE-TEX SIMPLIFIES THE REPAIR OF WATER JACKETS, CRANKCASES, RADIATORS, REFRIGERATORS, AUTO-BODY DENTS, RIFLE/GUN BEDS AND OTHER EQUIPMENT.

PART # 2007126 WHITE

Is this what I need to make the hull smooth?

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Where did you buy the Flier esc and what amp are they rated?

They are 280 amp and I hope that is enough! I should have went with the 350 amp. They will run on 16s lipos though. I bought the direct from the manufacture. Cathy is the sales rep. She is easy to work with and service is unreal! Here is here email. [email protected] I payed less than 200.00 each I think around 180.00.

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Did you guys catch the holes that I drilled so that the motors cool properly? I still need to add a rear mount. it will be a simple saddle that has holes on each that will have zip-ties holding it in place.

[Doby]

Just so I can check my calculations...you did say 16S on 1200 Kv motors...correct?

You might want to consider an alternate method for your servo mount....4 small bearing areas epoxied to the hull might not hold up long with the stresses this set up will see. Consider a mounting method that bolts it through to the tunnel of the hull.