HPR C5009 - 3 day build !!!

[ManuelW]

Hello Guys,

today I want to present you the review of a HPR C5009 which I built two weeks ago. And it was quite a special project, something that I didn't do before. So I hope you enjoy it.

HPR C5009 - Bullet Proof

The build was a HPR C5009, the owner is my friend Chris, a new member in our club "VTE - Marine - Racing". He doesn't have much spare time at the moment and it also was his first twin powered cat ever. So he came up to me and asked me for help either with experience or maybe even with the total build. And thats what I did for him.
So he brought me the brand new untouched hull on friday along with a medium sized parcel containing almost all necessary parts needed for the build. This was important as for a fast build you can't await to order parts and having them shipped.

Aim of the build was to build it above average in time and make it ready for its maiden.

So here the introduction:

hull

As said the hull is a HPR C5009 from Hanspeter with a length of 45" or 115cm. Its the "Bullet-Proof" version so the one with the best/highest strength officially offered on his website. Bare weight of the hull was just an amazing 2150g so Hanspeter gave his best again. Except two very little airbubbles in the GelCoat the finish was superior, technically without any issues at all.
The seam is also very well made, in the rear area double layer of GFK seam tape with 225g/m², side walls are reinforced all the way to the tips with a full layer of 245g/m² carbon weave. The tips themselves are filled generously with thickened resin as well as the seam between the tips. Adds some weight but it was carefully done and therefore definitely reasonable.
The cowl is as well a bullet-proof one so no chance for a GPS, even a Holux. But no matter, then it will be taped outside. Just don't forget a little piece of flotation.

Here some pictures:

[ManuelW]

setup

motors:
2x TP 4050 (40x83mm) with 2350kv, big water jackets by MBP-RC, 40mm rear support brackets made myself (not on the photo). Sadly the motor cables are quite long but as its coated copper wire I simply can't just shorten them. The collet clutches are the SZK-type also by MBP-RC. These are really excellent stuff for 5mm motor shaft and 3/16" flex shaft.

ESC:
2x Turnigy 180A, recent version with additional caps on a PCB. These were cut off immediately and were replaced by two 1000µF low-ESR caps which were directly soldered to the PCB of the ESC. Beside this a few other minor mods have been done to the ESC's.

Hardware:
Drives and Rudder are original HPR; the hydraulics are from MBP-RC.

lipos:
2x 6S 5000 40C and 2x 6S 5000 45C from Hobbyking

servo:
Fitec standard size servo with carbon fibre mount. Didn't like that one at all. Was immediately replaced by a nice low profile servo and the original HPR low profile servo mount.

lipo mount:
Lipo mount system by a member of the german forum named Isomar.

miscellaneous:
Emergency cut-off system by Emcotec with a magnet switch and LED (very cool!), 4.75mm flex shafts by H&M with H&M prop shafts (were replaced with HPR prop shafts), 2S Lipo as receiver battery with an U-BEC System. And the rest of the small parts needed for a build eg water in/outlets, shrink tube, 6mm bullets, silicon wire,...

pics:




So that was the introduction of the build!

[ManuelW]

Over the week-end I was busy with other things so no time to start the build. Real start was monday morning. Quite exactly on 10am I drilled the 1st hole in the untouched hull.

Status Monday lunchtime

Did quite some work on monday morning, mainly different bores for the drives including a lot of measuring and alignment of the parts. For the water intakes I already prepared two pieces of bent 4mm brass tube, marked the holes on the hull and drilled them with a 4.1mm bore. The bores for the stuffing tubes were already made. One was almost perfect as I'm used to. Sadly for the other one the drill bit moved a little so it had a very minor oval shape. But as it is laminated from inside anyway it doesn't matter.







Meanwhile I had already a few parts baking in the oven. These were parts of the drives where I glued in the last flange bearing as well as the set of flex shafts. For these I glued the HPR prop shaft on the free end of the flex. As for sure first everything was degreased using brake disk cleaner and then glued using Loctite 648.



Motor mounts

Hanspeter does already offer very nice CNC machined motor mounts from 3mm CF sheet. But I wanted to make my own ones as I wanted some minor adjustments on the position of the motors. But I asked Hanspeter and he was so nice to draw the circumference of the mounts on a sheet of paper. So I cut them out but modded these a little. This was necessary as you can really see that the bullet proof hulls are thicker than the standard ones.

[liteumup69]

Manuel, You have a PM

[ManuelW]

status monday evening

Monday afternoon I was quite busy with cutting out the motor mounts. First I just wanted to cut them out of 3mm CF sheet as regular. But then I kind of fell over some spare material I had left in my garage. It was a special sandwich sheet, around 7.5mm thick, thats almost 1/3", with a 4.5mm Nomex Honeycomb core and on each side a 1.5mm thick CF sheet (4 layers 370g/m² Atlas 1/4 weave). Christian knows the sheet, he always says its as stiff as a massive steel sheet of the same thickness, just without any weight.

Anyway I had enough material left so I marked the mounts and then cut them out using a solid carbide tool. For the optic freaks: Yes I know, the structure on each motor mount is not symmetrical, thats something only Chris would care about.







The fine work was done using a tool with a K80 grit:



Next step was to mark both bore circles on the mounts (6x60° LK 25mm M3 and 3x120° LK 30mm M4) before I drilled these. The material is extremely hard to machined, therefore also the bores are a little frazzled. Better would be having these CNC machined.
A little critical was the combination of the thick motor mounts with the SZK collet clutches and their huge OD of 18mm. It really had to be a precise work but finally it came out good. Afterwards I made a test fit of both motors inside the hull:

[ManuelW]

As everything fitted nice I did lighten the mounts a little. This also enables room for wires and cooling lines. Afterwards the weight was just 42.3g for the set - not too bad.



Next step was as usual, align them within the hull and mark the position. Then sand the surface, degrease it with brake disk cleaner and align the mounts again. I always use little drops of CY to fix them.







Like I always do I used thickened resin and weave reinforments to laminate the mounts. For this motor size/weight and size of the mounts one layer of weave over the seam has to be enough. Color is simply back. I think it came out quite good.

[ManuelW]

So that was the status on Monday Evening, tomorrow will follow Tuesday!

Have a nice evening!

regards,
Manuel

[srislash]

Cool,TP's in this one.Signing on.

[keithbradley]

Nice!
Have you used the Emotech cutoff before? I've considered them but I haven't been able to find much info about them.

[ManuelW]

@ Keith:
Sadly no use before and with the original Emcotec stuff we were NOT satisfied. Beside named in the shop usable for powerboats its NOT waterproof. German manufacturer MTL produces a water proof version featuring an aluminium ring with bolt circle which is glued with silicone to the top of the switch.

status Tuesday lunchtime

I spent the morning working on the driveline. First I removed and trimmed the weave around the motor mounts, to give them a nice look. Then I annealed the brass tubes for the stuffing tubes and gave them a smooth bend. As said a 3/16" flex shaft is used, next step was to cut it to the right length so they were ready for use.





Very important for me was to make it as symmetric as possible on both sides. I was quite satisfied, not to tell from Chris the owner who was even more satiesfied. In some spare time I cut out two support brackets for the stuffing tubes out of 2mm dark black GFK sheet and filed/sanded them to the right shape. Also did some sanding work in the rear of the boat and then degreased everything. I did even sand the little nuts for the screws to ensure a good bond.
Afterwards first I aligned everything and then I fixed the parts using a few drops of CYA I used some 5min epoxy which was colored black and thickend to glue in the support brackets for the stuffing tube. For the rear including the water intakes I used some 20min epoxy, also black colored and thickened.

[ManuelW]

status tuesday evening

On tuesday afternoon I didn't have much progress as I had to go to the training & therapy. In the evening Chris gave me a visit to help and check the progress. So we cut the stuffing tubes to the right length at the transom and finally mounted the drives using aquarium silicone to seal them. Then we cut the teflon liners to the right length and screwed in the motors. It started to look like a boat or at least similar.





As we had some time left we marked the screws for the rudder, then we sanded the tail part from inside, degreased it and filled it partly with thickened resin. When the resin was curing we did prepare the T180 ESC's which mean:
-shorten motor cables, soldered 6mm Nessel bullets and then used shrink tube
-shortened battery wires, soldered 6mm Nessel bullets/connectors and then used shrink tube
-additional stock caps desoldered (what did the Chinese think when they invented this?)
-added two 35V 1000µ Low-ESR caps for each ESC which were directly soldered to the controllers PCB, then shrinked them

Now I think the ESC's look fine. The cooling nipples also were a little too long, I modified them on Wednesday.





So that was the work on Tuesday, then I gave my bed a little visit.

[ManuelW]

status wednesday lunchtime

The drive lines as well as drives and rudder were almost finished, just had to bore the holes for the rudder and then mounted the rudder and hydraulics. Next step was the Emcotec Switch. First I marked its position on the hull, then I drilled the holes for the switch and the antenna mount. As my friend Christian "the file" is a fan of precise bored holes I gave my best to get a real round bore - here is the proof:





When they are delivered they come with some stainless cross slotted screws but they looked horrible and I threw them away. Replaced them with some nice stainless M2 countersunk screws. Looks a lot better immediately.



Another important point were rear support brackets for the motors. A few manufacturers already produce these for the 40mm can diameter motors but Chris didn't like these. So I had a pair of 40mm ones machined (wire erroded) in the style of the Lehner LMT support brackets out of 6mm aluminium sheet. They were also glas-blasted (is this the corect term?) and now have a clean look beside their very low weight.



Next was to give them a test fit within the hull as it needed to be symmetric. Used some cardboard for an example to cut the same shape out of CF sheet.

[ManuelW]

I used a 2.3mm strong high strength CF sheet for these and made some 5.5mm bores which I sanded bigger to the right fit. Then I pressed in some inserts with an M3 thread also using silicone. That should hold almost forever.







To make these supports it always takes quite some time and effort, especially when it needs to be done precise. In the meantime MBP-RC has these parts ready to use in his shop. Just 2-3 days too late, otherwise I'd have used these.

[ManuelW]

status wednesday night 03:00am

As the aim was to build the boat as fast as possible I had hardly any time on Wednesday afternoon and evening to take many pictures. It was simply no time lift as taking nice pictures also takes some time and effort.

In the afternoon I shortened the cooling nippels on the ESC's and removed any edges. Now they come another 5mm closer. Tube is a 7x3mm and secured on both ends.



Then I glued in the lipo mount system as well as the motor rear supports using some aquarium silicone and it came out pretty fine.





When the silicone was still curing I laminated the low-profile servo mount from HPR using some resin and some glass weave. The little fringes I removed for sure later on. Such a low profile servo looks way better in that hull and also the bowden linkages to the rudder work better.



The rest was just small work. One interesting point was the Turnigy UBec Chris had already soldered together using some BEC connectors. I made a test run but the U-Bec already needs a few ma current which is bad. So you can't let it be connected as it will empty the receiver battery.



Therefore I desoldered the connectors and cut a Y-connector to get some connectors. Now it was the following order:
2S receiver battery lipo --> emcotec switch --> U-BEC --> receiver
The soldering job was done around 10:00pm.

But this combination didn't make a good job in the test runs, the 2S receiver lipo was replaced with a 2S receiver LiFe and the U-BEC was completely removed. The Emcotec switch could stay was replaced with the water-proof version by MTL.

So at around 03:00am in the morning the boat was RTR and when i say RTR I mean RTR including:
-lipos shrinked to lipo sledges
-lipo mounts glued in
-ESC's programmed
-checked rotation direction of both motors, spinning inwards
-installed flex shafts using some grease and also filled the drive with grease
-installed complete cooling circuit with black cooling lines and secured all ends. Interesting fact is that I just needed a little less than 1m of cooling lines for the full boat. Which means the cooling circuit is short and therefore increased efficiency.
-made water intakes even with the running surface using sanding grit and milled some intake grooves.
-installed servo w. aluminium servo horn and all linkages
-installed receiver and connected everything
-installed hatch lock system with 4x M3 scews.

[ManuelW]

Here some pictures which were taken at 3am in the morning:
I was finished, in every meaing of that sentence