Hpr 06 / 115 build

[Chrisg81983]

I am building a Hpr 115 that I had gotten from Manuel here on the forum I must say he was very helpfull and is a great person to deal with. I will try to make this thread as detailed as I can for everyone to see but if I leave something out please feel free to ask.

My setup will be :
2x lehner 2240/7 with 6 connection points to run delta or wye
2x cc 200 Hv or 2x cc 240 lv not sure what ones to use I have both new for this build
Savox 1251 mg low profile servo
Hpr drives
Hpr rudder
Hrp motor mounts
Hpr low profile servo mount
Hpr lipo tray system
Motor collets from modellbaupirate one one of the most precise made in my op

Tip ::: Upon ordering a Hpr hull you must request the air scoop, and windshield. It no longer comes standard with the hull / hulls. So they are being sent with my new order, but I don't think there is a charge for them. According to Manuel many people were not using them they were just getting wasted.

[Chrisg81983]

Here's the hull and hardware for now
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[Chrisg81983]

Today I got the drives mounted
For starters I made a exact template of the sponsons transom along with the hole for the drive in it's required spot for this I just used a 1/2 in marine grade ply it worked great and I added a 5 mm cf plate onto the transom of sponson here are the results

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[Chrisg81983]

Next the rudder was installed by making a template out of double sided tape. The same method Manuel used on his build here on OSE. It worked perfect, but the pics might show it's a tad off because it's stuck on with the double side tape just to take a pic for u guys to see. Oh and I polished the blade up real quick, but still needs a final polish when boat is completed.

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[Chrisg81983]

That's all I can do for now as I am waiting for the rest of the cf, and other parts. The motors should ship out any day now as well. If anyone has any questions / comments or info that I will need or that can help please let me know thanks for looking hope to get some feedback.


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[liteumup69]

looking good Chris, Will defiantly follow the build, Did you settle on a epoxy?

Paul

[Chrisg81983]

Thanks
I have been in touch with Manuel about the epoxy, he is getting me a bunch of other parts for the build so when he sends them he is going to send the epoxy that he uses for his builds. Any place I found that has true epoxy resin will not ship to my location.

[sigelitest]

does the stinger use square ended cable to hook up.

[Chrisg81983]

No mike they don't we went over this I need to use the locktite retaining glue ( 603/638). Now I know how well u listen to me while we are on the phone. (LOL)

[Chrisg81983]

Here u can see what I mean the 3/16 or 4.75mm flex gets glued into the prop-shaft. Some may solder them as well I have used both methods. I find the locktite is easier to do but just requires a little more time. I will cook in oven for 1hr on 60 degrees celsius rotating half way through.


Here the top of drive is not mounted yet

[nata2run]

All very nice Chris... Getting out the popcorn for this one. Just wait, it wont be long till your back with the HPR135 LOL

[Chrisg81983]

Thanks
I know exactly what you are saying I wanted the 135 even before I got this one. Just figured I'd start here, but hey theres always room for one more.

[Remmie81]

Awesome Chris!

Regarding the propshaft and the flex here is how I do it (never lost a propshaft)
(maybe you know this already but could be helpfull to other people who read this)

Take rough sanding paper (eg grid 80) and roughen up the part of the flex that goes into the propshaft.
Then with grid 120 roughen up the innerside of the propshaft.
Clean the end of the flex and the innerside of propshaft with brake cleaner.

Take loctite 648 and fill the propshaft about 20% with it
Put Loctite 648 on the flex everywere were it will touch the propshaft.

Put the flex slowly into the propshaft while turning it to approx 1/3, this to make sure that any airbubbles can come out.
When you feel backpressure there is air trapped in the propshaft, keep turning untill the air comes out.
Now continue untill the flex reached the bottom of the propshaft.
Turn it for a few more times to make sure all air is out.

Now leave it standing on the propnut with flex to the sky for 24 hours and you are good to go.
Or like you said, put it in the oven for 1hr on 60 degrees celsius rotating half way through.

[nata2run]

Agree with the above, 648 is the way to go. I don't know how well solder works, but the cable will break before the glue. Use a flex saver or a collar around the cable just incase your collet lets go and you loose the whole drive with props and all.. Happened to me on my maiden... Really sucks waiting for new propshafts. I ordered 2 spares striaght up for the 138. Hmm only to discover the 2 were smaller and didn't fit a 3/16. Now have to wait for new ones.

[Prop-a-Gator]

Nice to see your build get going Chris. I never tire of following these. The polished blade is a nice touch. The sponson templates are a good idea. I wonder if it is something HPR could provide as standard if you buy their hull and drives - just something cheap, rigid and precise like laser cut ply. (just a hint if you're listening, Manuel )