TFL 56" Genesis twin

[twissted]

This looks to be a great boat. brass tubes? what is the lenght that you used, all said and done? Should I change mine? seems like the shafts would flex with no drive tubes over them. Could you cover this part of the build more for me please. Thx.

[drwayne]

brass tubes, for ..?
water lines or the flex outers ?

[twissted]

Oh, I just glued them to the hull. So what did you do for the motor flex shafts?

[drwayne]

Here's what I have done in several builds.

Are your motors mounted yet ?
put all gear inside the hull, hardware on back, and find balance point
mark where the motors are in this balanced spot.
check flex length to suit.
do not use the brass outer just yet, nor do you cut the flexes...
connect flex to collet on motor
Aim the flex so it points towards the floor just before the stinger opening, this allows space for a radiused curve on the brass outer.
ergo,not a straight line from collet to stinger opening
tack glue the mount in place whilst aligned the stinger as detailed above.
with a shaprie mark the flex stub where it leaves the stinger
Do the alignment trick again, and mount the other with a tack glue spot, using the sharpie mark as length.
this helps align the shaft, motor and sets same lengths for later

Once the mount is tacked..work out where te brass tube will need to bend to allow flex to center on motor shaft.
The brass outer can fit inside the stinger, and I do this to aid alignment and prevents a gap infront the stinger where no support may induce whip/vibration.

Heat the area that needs to be bent ( not the 1" that goes into the stinger, or the couple inches before the motor)
A gas torch will heat it ok, when it starts to glow/track, let it air cool.
Bend carefully using fingers, a big curve is best, then test for alignment... if you rebend it often it will case harden and crack.. !
Otherside 'should' be a copy the first.

Id now fit the mounts permanently before the glue tack fails !

Now cut the flex to suit.


for the rudder pull/pull I used 2x 3/16 brass tubes as guides from rudder/hydraulic interface, and led to the servo.. at the servo end I use a bellow for waterproofing ( there's photos here somewhere ). ditto the heat and bend trick to form the shape

regs
W

[drwayne]

IMG_0125.jpgIMG_0122.jpgIMG_0126.jpgIMG_0136.jpg

[twissted]

Thank you

Here's what I have done in several builds.

Are your motors mounted yet ?
put all gear inside the hull, hardware on back, and find balance point
mark where the motors are in this balanced spot.
check flex length to suit.
do not use the brass outer just yet, nor do you cut the flexes...
connect flex to collet on motor
Aim the flex so it points towards the floor just before the stinger opening, this allows space for a radiused curve on the brass outer.
ergo,not a straight line from collet to stinger opening
tack glue the mount in place whilst aligned the stinger.
with a shaprie mark the flex stub where it leaves the stinger
Do the alignment trick again, and mount the other with a tack glue spot, using the sharpie mark as length.
this helps align the shaft, motor and sets same lengths for later

Once the mount is tacked..work out where te brass tube will need to bend to allow flex to center on motor shaft.
The brass outer can fit inside the stinger, and I do this to aid alignment and prevents a gap infront the stinger where no support may induce whip/vibration.

Heat the area that needs to be bent ( not the 1" that goes into the stinger, or the couple inches before the motor)
A gas torch will heat it ok, when it starts to glow/track, let it air cool.
Bend carefully using fingers, a big curve is best, then test for alignment... if you rebend it often it will case harden and crack.. !
Otherside 'should' be a copy the first.

Id now fit the mounts permanently before the glue tack fails !

Now cut the flex to suit.


for the rudder pull/pull I used 2x 3/16 brass tubes as guides from rudder/hydraulic interface, and led to the servo.. at the servo end I use a bellow for waterproofing ( there's photos here somewhere ). ditto the heat and bend trick to form the shape

regs
W

Yes I have everything mounted. I have a great alignment. I just though that you have something different than what I had installed. The only differance that I can see from this post is the amount of tube that fits in the stinger. I used the entire length of the stinger with the tube. Thank you for your reply.

[drwayne]

You're welcome, mate.
anytime

I mounted the driveline brass at front the motor, but the rear was free to move,as it was captured by the stinger...
I use sealant between the stinger interface to the transom underhull, and worked well.

Also mounted a small block behind the pretend hydraulic steering arm area, with a 3/16 hole in center. The brass tube fitted that for pull cable, and was glue d into place for additional support.
If the cables can warp the brass runner, the steering fails.
W

[twissted]

On the look out

You're welcome, mate.
anytime

I mounted the driveline brass at front the motor, but the rear was free to move,as it was captured by the stinger...
I use sealant between the stinger interface to the transom underhull, and worked well.

Also mounted a small block behind the pretend hydraulic steering arm area, with a 3/16 hole in center. The brass tube fitted that for pull cable, and was glue d into place for additional support.
If the cables can warp the brass runner, the steering fails.
W

I will keep this in the back of my mind. This is my first build so I have a lot to remember. Thx again