Replacing a stinger's brass bushing with lead-teflon bushings

[properchopper]

I've found that the brass bushings in my Speedmaster stingers get sloppy fairly quickly, and even a new replacement bushing will have some play as the brass insert in the stinger wears. The vibration in this area has to be robbing some power, and I'm most concerned with this in my spec powered rigs ( my full "P" boats with healthy big Neu motors most likely shrug this off). Lead-teflon bushings are inexpensive, simple to install, easy to replace, and seem to afford a lower coefficient of kinectic friction than the double brass bushing, at least by hand-twirling the shaft. Shown is a shortened Speedmaster stinger, this should work for other stinger brands , also for struts that use the rotating brass bushing ( I did this to my MC strut as well so I know it works on AQ struts).

Step one : knock out the insert with a drift :
DSC03203.JPG


Step two : press in lead-teflon front (of boat) bushing :
DSC03205.JPG


Step three : use drift to insert to correct depth so the front of the prop shaft rides inside it :
DSC03206.JPG

Step four : press in rear (of boat) bushing as in step two (sorry, picture didn't come out)

Step five : put a little light oil on the shaft , chuck it up in the trusty drill & take it for a spin for a few moments until it spins as smoothly as a presidential candidate's
press secretary
DSC03207.JPG

Keep 'Em Wet, Amigos,

Tony

[Chrisg81983]

Tony I have been doing this for quite some time now I am a big fan of lead Teflon bushings they work great for me and you are right about that excess play that developes rather quickly when using the stock brass bushings

[TheShaughnessy]

hmm, i have the lead Teflon bearings in my MG strut. How often should one replace them? At first i suspected it was my flex shaft that was the culprit so i tried a new shaft i happened to have, but the slop was still there. Now I'm convinced it is the bushings. At least they are only a few bucks, compared to 10 bucks a pop for the bearings i have in my Vegas strut.

[Jeff Wohlt]

Odd as Speedmaster and others swear that a spinning bushing is no problem. Lead teflon is a good smooth set up even some of the very high dollar german stingers have these....you will not find a spinning bushing in them anywhere...as a matter of fact they are a bitch to get out....which I have done to put bearings in for some.

[Chrisg81983]

They can be a bitch at times I just ordered a set of drives from hanspeter I am curious to see how they are made

[properchopper]

hmm, i have the lead Teflon bearings in my MG strut. How often should one replace them? At first i suspected it was my flex shaft that was the culprit so i tried a new shaft i happened to have, but the slop was still there. Now I'm convinced it is the bushings. At least they are only a few bucks, compared to 10 bucks a pop for the bearings i have in my Vegas strut.

Bushings are like women. You replace them for the same reason

[Chrisg81983]

Bushings are like women. You replace them for the same reason

Lol So I am not the only one who thinks this

[richard]

hi just want to see way you get the lead teflom bushing .

[785boats]

I've replaced Speedmaster bushings with lead bushings & I've done the opposite too. And of course I've run both systems in their original setups.
I must agree with you Tony, the Lead bushings definitely last longer. Doesn't seem to matter whether it's a strut or a stinger, or in a Mono, Cat, or Hydro.

Richard.
The bushings can be bought right here at Offshore Electrics.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=oct-oc6ltsb

All the best.
Paul.

[jcald2000]

Strange, I run speedmaster bushings in almost all my set ups including ul1 powered JAE, with abought 50 runs on it no slop at all. But I run an oil lube system. Are you using grease?
My 8s 2p rigger at 7500 watts has no slop either, with oil lube.

[Shooter]

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but it's a great subject. I too have been replacing all of my brass bushings with lead teflon. So far, they have been nice tight fits and with the Chopper's burnish procedure, they are free spinning with essentially no play.

A lot of people swear by the spinning brass bushing, and I've never had problems with them when they're not sloppy, but I can't see how it reduces friction. You are spinning a larger diameter. Frictional forces are more effective at slowing the shaft down the further they are from center (hence why bigger brake disc diameters apply more brake torque).

[Chrisg81983]

I as well prefer a lead Teflon bushing over a brasd bushing

[ray schrauwen]

The German Lead teflon bushings are a far far superior construction compared to Octura. Octura's work but, the ones from H&M are awesome.

Odd as Speedmaster and others swear that a spinning bushing is no problem. Lead teflon is a good smooth set up even some of the very high dollar german stingers have these....you will not find a spinning bushing in them anywhere...as a matter of fact they are a bitch to get out....which I have done to put bearings in for some.

[Shooter]

Thanks Ray. I will check them out!