'67 Blonde Miss Bardahl 1/10 Shovel

[BHChieftain]

Here's a 1/10 1967 Miss Bardahl shovelnose build.

Hull is a Karelson low profile, carbon fiber, built by Craig Bradshaw from West Coast Custom Boats. I asked Craig to paint her in the Blonde 1967 color scheme, and to install the hardware-- he did an awesome job. She is set up for RHT but can be setup to run LHT by moving the fin to the left side, changing the motor direction and changing props. Decals are on order.

Planning to run a proboat 1500KV motor with an X447, but will also try a proboat 1800kv motor with an x445. Not looking for a speed demon but would like to have it run stable in the mid 40's.

I hear these hulls are not really able to be waterproofed esp. if capsized, so I'm planning to build a waterproof radio/esc/servo box, still thinking about how to design that.

So on my todo list:
-Finish decals
-Build/paint the V12 motor model and driver
-Build rx/esc/servo waterproof box

Any tips on the best way to seal the motor bay?

Chief

[BHChieftain]

Given that these hulls are not designed to stay dry inside, what's the best way to minimize water intrusion? Are auto-bailers on this type of hull a good idea or am I just askin' for trouble with those (I heard they can flood the boat if something blocks them)?

Chief

[BHChieftain]

Decided to skip the bailers and just use some sponges. Planning to use a proboat 60A ESC which comes in a highly water resistant box already-- I'll add some additional liquid electrical tape to it. Will use a Traxxas waterproof RX box.

I lost my source for decals-- anybody have a lead on where I can get some cut?

Chief

[JimClark]

Contact Mike McNight at

http://www.thunderboatgraphics.com/

He has all the graphics you need for that boat

[BHChieftain]

Thanks for the lead,
Chief

[BHChieftain]

I'm looking for a semi-permanant sealing material to seal the prop strut from the inside of the hull-- I don't want a permanant material like epoxy as I want to be able to adjust the strut from time to time.

Silicon? Hot Glue? Silly Putty?

Chief

[westbeach]

Aquarium grade silicone might be the ticket you're looking for.

[lenny]

Hi,
Why are these hulls not designed to stay dry ?
What do you mean by that ?
Mine came with auto- bailers installed in it,
And I made a water proof seal with three thumb nuts for the hatch.

Thanks for any info.

Given that these hulls are not designed to stay dry inside, what's the best way to minimize water intrusion? Are auto-bailers on this type of hull a good idea or am I just askin' for trouble with those (I heard they can flood the boat if something blocks them)?

Chief

[BHChieftain]

Hi,
Why are these hulls not designed to stay dry ?
What do you mean by that ?
Mine came with auto- bailers installed in it,
And I made a water proof seal with three thumb nuts for the hatch.

Thanks for any info.

The open motor bay looks pretty tough to seal -- see pics. I'll try a sponge first as I don't want to drill more holes in the hull for auto bailers-- I can always install later.

Chief
PS I should be able to work on this boat in a few weeks-- got sidetracked prepping a OPC tunnel for a race...

[BHChieftain]

Not much progress, been working on my son's 29' P-spec OPC racing tunnel. Did receive the boatstand, painted to match. I'll add green highlighs to the stand later. Also received the '67 bardahl graphics but have not applied them yet.

Chief

[BHChieftain]

All hardware / watercooling installed.

Took her out for maiden voyage today, tried x447 and m445 prop. Like the x447 better. Motor getting really hot, although the ESC is cool-- I think I had some binding on the driveline-- when I pulled out the motor I noticed it was pulling down on the shaft drive and putting pressure on the bushing.

Here's a video on the 3rd run, with a nice blow over flip. Landed right side up. A few runs later it flipped upside down and flooded, but no damage. I'm still playing around on battery placement-- seems to do better with the lipos as far up in the nose as possible.

Need to finish decals, driver, and model motor.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qIYBhEYv0A

Chief

[monojeff]

I use silicone on my 1/10 strut and stuffing tube it works well.
What esc are u using and what do u have the timing set at?

[BHChieftain]

Hi,
60A proboat ESC. Timing is set to "low" (not many choices for that esc...). For lubricant I had just used a couple drops of light oil on the bushings. Which silicon do you use?

Also-- for your 1/10, do you place the batteries out towards the sponsons, or do you keep them close together midline? (mine are midline at the moment). Debating if I want faster roll response as the sponsons bounce or do I want to dampen that with weight out towards the edges.

Chief

[monojeff]

You are using a good esc and timing is set correctly so not sure why heat is an issue.
I can leave my hand on the can after runs without a problem of heat I am not sure what exactly temps are but I would say right between warm and hot is about right.

I use 100% silicone from home depot usually.
You can get the bathroom kind its a red and white tube and is smaller so can store it easily in tool box or whatever.

You do not want the sponsons to hop because that will caus handling issues.
I put the batteries on the sides of the boat some people put them on 1 side vs the other depending on what works best and which way your turning.

Also what rudder are you using as this can be a big factor in handling.

For lubricant I use a mixture of chainsaw bar oil and mystery oil then for my strut I use grim grease.

These boats you want to free up the sponsons so they are not running wet but not to much or they will flip so CG can be adjusted according to conditions.
On a good day I will have the CG further back if there isn't that much chop.
Take a look at this for some setup tips.

http://classicthunder.org/SetUp/10comandments.htm

That should help get you in the ball park and can adjust from there.

I run a air damn on mine now that I have it running well in the mid 40s if I don't it will certainly blow over.
Also when I tend to put the batteries to far forward it wants to dive sometimes when letting off the throttle on chop so something to keep an eye on.

The smoother the better with these scale boats dont want any hoping or bouncing.
Have fun nice looking boat I know Jim likes it......

[JimClark]

How's the shaft line up? To seal my strut I mixed some epoxy with some microbaloons to thicken it and load that into a suringe and force some into the gap and make sure I get a nice little bead of epoxy around the strut.