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I like the blue
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The plan was just a single, that's what I have parts here for... but I will put a dual rod style servo arm on it so if you want to add another down the road it will just be a matter of bolting one on.
What do you think of the ESC cover plate? It is removable (they are normally removed for battery installation/removal) for ESC maintainance but keeps them out of sight otherwise. A few guys have put emblems or decals on them as well, they really pop with a shiny silver decal in the center!Comment
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I love the esc cover. It really makes the interior look clean. I have some ideas for a decal for it.Comment
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I've got a great picture of my sock I wanted to share so I thought I would post it here. Somehow the transom of Bullwink's EKOS got in the pic too...
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It's very difficult to capture the brilliance of a nice carbon fiber boat, and I will be the first to say that pics don't even come close to a fair representation of what this boat looks like. Still, I'll post what I have. One important thing to note in this boat is that all the water cooling, motor wires, servo and esc to rx wires have all been ran. Everything but batteries are in this pic. I think colored water lines and wires running recklessly inside a boat will make any hull look bad.
Hopefully onlookers can appreciate the clean look of this boat.Comment
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Beautiful job Keith! Nice Sock too!Comment
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You've done nice work there Keith, looks great.Comment
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Hi Keith,
I have a couple of questions. On a two motor setup, do you normally put the normal Left turning prop and shaft on the Port side and the Right counter Rotating Prop on the Starboard side?
And also, I will need to add flotation foam. I am thinking about pouring 2 Part Foam into the sponsons. It will strengthen them plus add some weight in the front to help prevent blow overs. What are your thoughts on this?Comment
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Try both. Different boats wil react differently to each rotation. I really don't remember how I ran them on my EKOS...I think I had them turning outward but I can't be sure, it could have been either way.
I've actually never used the two part foam. I normally use pool noodles. Once I find out where I want to place the lipos, I cut the pool noodles so they butt up against the batteries, keeping them from moving forward in a crash (that's normally where they would go if they broke loose).
The two part foam might turn out nice so if it's something you want to do, give it a try. I wouldn't be too worried about adding weight though, you should be able to do that with your batteries. Start with your COG around 35% and go from there.Comment
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I received my EKOS (All in one piece. Sorry about yours Lenny) from Keith today. All I can say is it is beautiful! The CF ESC Holder is like glass. I have already tested it in my pool.
A couple of questions - One motor spins up a lot faster than the other pulling the boat to one side. There is no binding in the drive shaft. I individually programmed both Swordfish ESCs for standard start.
Causes? Fixes?
Also, even though the black cooling tubing from Venom looks cool. It is very stiff - not very flexible. I pressure tested the system and it leaked severly at the ESC. The cooling tube is so rigied that I don't think zip ties will help. So I may have to replace that.Comment
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One motor starting before the other could be a programming issue. I know you said you programmed them both, but maybe the parameters are different from one ESC to the other. I would try some different settings, like set them both to "hard" start or "high" start power (I don't remember what SF calls it) and see what happens. If that doesn't work, try calibrating them to your tx again indivually. Sometimes there a slight difference from one motor to the other, but definitely nothing extreme. Be careful with this until you get it figured out. Sometimes one motor not spinning as fast can be a sign of ESC problems. Hopefully yours is just a matter of settings.
As far as the tubing leaking, did you check the fittings on the cooling plates of the ESC? I just ran my 41" cat today with the same style hose (but from fighter cat) and it was bone dry. I would be surprised if the tubing was leaking. I bet it's the fitting itself... take it out and put some thread sealant on it (unless it's loose...you may be able to just tighten it if that's the case) then put it back in.Comment
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One of the ESCs appears to be bad. I connected the good ESC to to both motors and they ran fine. I connected the bad ESC to the other motor and same thing. Now the motor does not spin at all. It stutters like when you have a bad connection.Comment
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Update: Steve warranted the bad Swordfish. Yeah OSE!
4 weeks ago: Keith warned me to make sure the cables were intalled to run in the correct direction or they would unravel. Well, I wasn't sure which was which so I took a guess and guessed wrong. I pressed the throttle and Instant carnage! The cables unwound immediatey. Had to wait for new cables.
Last week: Ran it with two Counter X442s. Brought it in after one minute and the motors were at 180F. Ran it again and went airborne, flipped, and blew out the windshield. Got some water in and the servo took a dump.
This week: Poured two part foam in the hatch to seeal the windshield. Put on two ABC 1616's 42mm x 1.6, it was a little slower and more controlable but this thing is crazy fast! However, when I brough it in after 2 minutes, the motors were at 180 - 190. Question, are these normal temps for air cooled outrunners?Comment
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