ML Boatworks- Sport 12, 20, 20L, and 40 Hydroplane Online Instruction manual

[cybercrxt]

Leaving the nose, and that stick dry fitted, it is now time to fit the front part of the floor pan. First, dry fit it, make sure it fits properly against the frames like so:

[cybercrxt]

Now hold that floor pan to the frames with some masking tape, ensuring the frames, and the floor pan are nice and square with each other. Once you have that taped, you can start using CA glue to hold the front end cleanly. Don't do more than just a few spots here and there to hold it in place. This will tie the whole front end together.



Fit the short pieces you cut off the batten sticks that were on the bottom side of the hull down into the front bottom pan and use them for strength:

[cybercrxt]

Now you can put a piece of 3/16"x3/16" batten stick behind the nosing, against the front floor pan. This will strengthen that bond:

[cybercrxt]

Now you can tie in those top batten sticks to the front nosing area. CA Glue them all in, keeping some weighs on the frame to ensure its as flat as possible:



Should look like this after bonded! (Note" the outside top 1/8" x 1/8" batten sticks are not shown in this pic. They can now be put in place)



Here is another pic, with those outside, top batten sticks in place:

[cybercrxt]

Now you can fit the quarter round to the bottom of the hull, which will help seal off the front and rear bottom pans:

[cybercrxt]

You now have the sponsons and center section framing complete. Once you have this done, only the top decks are left to add. Thanks like skid fin aluminum plate should be installed before top deck fitment. Any E-glass or Carbon Fiber needs to be put in the sponson floors to strengthen them. Any E-glass you want in the center section should also be added at this time. Remember, do not bond the sponsons to the center section until the top decks are installed and sanded clean. Here are some pics of where you should be with your hull right now. The sponsons are only dry fitted to the center section:



These are the parts you should still have laying around:

[cybercrxt]

Here is an example of Carbon fiber in the sponsons and center section. These are your key locations:





Here is what you will want for a skid fin plate inside the right sponson transom. Aluminum plate so you can tap and die your skid fin bolts:

[cybercrxt]

Once you have the above done, you can either start top deck placement, or start fitting your rudder, strut, stuffing tube, etc. Or you can go ahead and put on your top deck skins. Take your time with the sponson top decks. They should be bonded with Epoxy. They have a complex curve, so plan our how you want to hold it in place. I use a construction grade masking tape to hold down the sponson decks. I also use clamps when I have the option. The center section top deck is much easier, just dry fit, make sure it looks correct, and bond it with epoxy. The whole inside of your hull should be fully epoxied at this point before the decks go on!


PLEASE NOTE: The pics below are from the prototype hull. Your center section top decking has a divider so the cowling fits at the front, and the wood hatch is to the back. I took these pics from the prototype kit, and they are missing that feature. I will have pics up in the future showing that better, but until I get that done, this will do. Also note the sponsons, once sheeted, and the center section once sheeted, can then be bonded together using epoxy, and on a flat board.

[cybercrxt]

As you get to this point, you will see the cowling will need to be trimmed. The below pictures show that top deck divider and rear hatch like you kit has. Your hull is like this:





Cowling nice and trimmed. I like using scissors to cut my cowlings to size. I mark them with a marker while the cowling is still transparent and trim that line!

[cybercrxt]

Paint as you want it!

[cybercrxt]

I will add some more updated pics as I get this batch of hulls done. For now, this concludes the build manual. At this point, please feel free to ask questions on this thread! Thanks for your patience, and anyone interested in a kit, or built hull, please contact me at www.ml-boatworks.com, or (252) 717-6282, [email protected]. Kits are $165 shipped for the sport 20, $180 shipped for the sport 20L, and $190 shipped for the Sport 40. Thanks, Mike Luszcz

[rcboats1]

Have you (or anyone) built and run the sport 40 yet?

[cybercrxt]

I am working on getting the first sport 20L and sport 40hydro kits here asap to get to testing. I already have all the hardware and motors here and ready!

[cybercrxt]

Just wanted everyone to know the 20L and 40 are tested and available. They are now called the GP335 and GP400 respectively. I also have a new 26.5" hull called the GP265 available for 2s lipo or .12 nitro setups. Mike

[cybercrxt]

Now the GP265, GP310, GP335, and GP400 have been completed! Only the GP480 is yet to design and build! Mike