The CG I am running is 10" from the rear of the ride pad with 4s Thunder Power 5000mah.My 5s-6s skylipo's are a little shorter so I should be ok as well.I was just saying it's close,I don't wanna move my mounts.I'm gonna try some detounged 447's next on 4s.The 1820's aren't even working with 445's.I've also got some 450/3's to try.Now if the ice would go away.
coopers shocker build #2
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Yea that's what happened to me with the daytona, I would have had to move the mounts back. Would have been a big task so I found this shocker hull, if it would have been available when I bought the daytona I would have bought it then! And I'm starting to play with the props now so I'm setting up the daytona for a single drive system, I don't know what I'm doing with prop work so it make no sense for me to try and learn on twins! and I hear ya with the ice! Don't have ice here yet but 25-35 degree weather is more for building for me. But when I get this done I have a small shallow pond near so might have to load up the kayak and long johns and do some trial runs! Can't wait till spring! Looking forward to summer to run up against the neighbor with a etti deamon rigger, don't know what he has under the hood till we run them! Secret till we race in springComment
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I used to do my props back in the pre-internet days so I think I'll start the re-learning curve soon.I am also gonna order some 645 and 648 props from Ben when he gets back. I think I'll be ok with the current setup once the speed goes up a bit.
An Etti Demon eh! I've been eyeing those up for awhile but it is very race purpose and a large pond/lake will be needed.My Miss Bud project will have to do there.Comment
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rw boat shocker hull 006.jpg
got the battery trays cut
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ill epoxy the mounts in and plenty of straps for keeping batts in one place, i am going to be getting different velcro straps these were just for fit, and just some foam to cushion the battery, also keeps them from slideingComment
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i used a piece of tubeing for the pushrod to go through, a little more room, epoxyed inside
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oh and this is my other helping hand, he was supposta be a retriver of capsized boats, but just a great pain and lazy lazy lazy, although he does like to chase the boat! kinda funny to see him get roosted,Attached FilesComment
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went with a piece of brassComment
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glassed in the stuffing tubes, and found a way to get the cables exactly in line with the tube, i used different couplers, inserted some tubeing, put larger tubeing inside tubeing and made a tight seal into the final size of the stuffing tube, kept them 1-1/2 inch long so not to have any bent for that length, as to have the cable straight for a bit before the bend,
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does anyone have an opinion on length of rudder? im not sure yet if i am going to go with the one with two water lines or if im going to go with thru-hull pickups,
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and is this rudder going to be too far back for this cat? the leading edge of the rudder is 1-1/2 behind the trailing edge of the props. or should i use one that is closer to the boat?
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well the rest of the night is going to be trying to figure out where to place the speedo's
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Did you see how I mounted my ESC's?inside 003.jpg
Just an idea to keep the leads short.I can't say about the rudder except that I have a dual pickup long one.
Coming along nicely Coop.Comment
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Yes I did see how you did yours, nice, I'm going to have to mount mine flat, lots of cooling, each speedo has 8 inlet/outlet fittings. However I am considering shortening the motor leads, I have mine bolted to an aluminum plate which in turn is going to be epoxied on the hull, like with the batteries everything in this boat is going to be well secured, don't want to take flight but the blow overs are going to be inevitable, I'm just trying to figure out how far foreword /backwards I'll have to mount them. I still want to run this boat with multiple different setups, batteries-props ect.Comment
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Thanks by the way! Yea I just don't know what I'm going to go with for cooling. I like the look of no cooling lines, but I feel that the rudder pickups can't be beat for water volume, and eather way the cooling system is going to be well secured for speed equals pressureComment
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Yes I did see how you did yours, nice, I'm going to have to mount mine flat, lots of cooling, each speedo has 8 inlet/outlet fittings. However I am considering shortening the motor leads, I have mine bolted to an aluminum plate which in turn is going to be epoxied on the hull, like with the batteries everything in this boat is going to be well secured, don't want to take flight but the blow overs are going to be inevitable, I'm just trying to figure out how far foreword /backwards I'll have to mount them. I still want to run this boat with multiple different setups, batteries-props ect.Comment
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I just took a look at the ESC pic and noticed your motor bullets,4mm,right?That's all I'm running for now,I am gonna leave them unless it's a problem.But they haven't heated up yet,I've checked.
Oh yeah,I still haven't tried to adjust the rudder back or forward yet.My Miss Behavin' can be adjusted but haven't tested it.I also have not found any definative
answers on here yet either.Comment
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Actually they are 5mm connectors, and I use ec5 connectors on all my stuff, high quality silver soder too. It flows at alot higher temp but that is usually the weakest point in the connection. If I melt those which I never had yet with 170 amps then I'll move up to some 8mm conectors which I have a bunch, just never had to use them yetComment
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Silver solder is very important here.I have 8mm on my DF 35" with 1717 on the motor only.I run CC 6.5's everywhere else.I just figured they were bulky in the tight ESC to motor area.
A trusted friend said I probably wouldn't hit 100 amps per motor on a twin.Hehe He doesn't know what props I'm gonna work to.Comment
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