STEALTH SPORT HYDRO Nitro to FE

[Darin Jordan]

Terry, Thanks for the defense, but it's not necessary. These internet warriors can presume what they want to presume... All I did was ask a question, and then, after getting the answer, post a point of fact. If they can't handle the truth, that's their deal. Anyone who actually knows me wouldn't have questioned my intent...

I received my Stealth earlier this week. Nice boat. Very well laid up and looks to be a decent design. Getting the transom inline with the inane FE Sport Hydro rules won't be an issue. I can have it in compliance in about 10-minutes... Perhaps a tad longer if I want to take the time to make the update blend in and be seamless.

I appreciate Phil providing the FE community with these quality products... He has a much larger market with Nitro, and he doesn't have to head down this road. His willingness to work with us and these $#@!& rules is truly appreciated, and I look forward to getting this boat built and race-ready. Thanks Phil...

[longballlumber]

Getting the transom inline with the inane FE Sport Hydro rules won't be an issue. I can have it in compliance in about 10-minutes... Perhaps a tad longer if I want to take the time to make the update blend in and be seamless.

Darin,

Out of curiosity how do you plan on handling the transom shape? Are you planning on sanding off the “nubs” that create an air trap on the rear half of the boat to make the “transom bottom” one continuing surface?


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[Darin Jordan]

Darin,

Out of curiosity how do you plan on handling the transom shape? Are you planning on sanding off the “nubs” that create an air trap on the rear half of the boat to make the “transom bottom” one continuing surface?


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You know... because of our rule of not being able to have any "ride surfaces in the rear 50% of the hull", I'm not sure we have any real choice but to sand off the air-traps and make the bottom just flat back there. I need to look more closely at mine again, but it almost appears that those "air traps" back there don't extend all the way forward anyhow, and they appeared to be angled inward as you measure forward on the hull.

My plan was to just sand the bottom flat back there, sanding off the air-traps completely (I don't think they are necessary anyhow), and then add material to the back of the transom. From my calculations, the width needs to be extended about 0.250" on either side. Phil mentioned 1/8" on either side, but I don't think this is correct, based on the provided measurements.

It would be nice if our rules were more inline with actual boat design. If they were, then you could just add width to what is already there, and let the air-traps be 1/4" wide or ???

In fact... The definition of what a "ride-surface" is being a little vague, one may be able to just make everything wider and leave them. The don't touch the water when the boat is running at speed, so I'm not sure they actually meet the definition of what a "ride surface" is anyhow. That would certainly make the "fix" easier for those, like you, who already have their boats done, painted, and working well... Hmmmmm.....

[longballlumber]

I have been running this “fix” thru my brain ever since the issue was discovered… I have only come up with more questions…

What constitutes “bottom” if I remove all of the hardware and put the boat on a flat surface it will lie on the sponson transoms (left and right) and with this hull design it will rest on the “nubs”. Does the outside to outside of the resting surface become the bottom of the hull? In theory, the measurement we are currently using for the 65% rule (on this hull) is a rear tunnel width.

I am starting to think the 65% rule is OK, BUT they need to measure the transom width regardless of non-trip angles.

I have never seen the tub of a “rigger” have non trips built in.

Ha... Ride surfaces... what defines a ride surface or plane? Especially if the centerline of the strut/prop are well below this "riding surface"

Later,
Mike

[Darin Jordan]

Ha... Ride surfaces... what defines a ride surface or plane? Especially if the centerline of the strut/prop are well below this "riding surface"

Later,
Mike

Mike... exactly... It's ambiguous, and would be left up to the CD of the event to ultimately decide. I hate rules that work that way, but they are what they are...

I think, if I recall the "discussions" that took place back when they were hashing out these rules, that THIS is what they were trying to avoid... Someone taking a rigger and adding enough "deck" surface to it to make it "Sport Hydro"... That's why they used the bottom of the transom, specifically. (sorry for the crude rendering... I just whipped it up quickly for this post...)

[Grimracer]

Mike,

The old Jag use to have non trips on the tub... kind of.... I also have a Huey hydro that has em... still has rear sponsons too.

Some day you have to come over and see my bevy of antique junk!

Grim

[RCKong]

I think the "nubs" funnels air under the back of the boat when the transom dips in the water, and probably helps the boat cut in the corner - good stuff. The measurement I provided is from the outside of the "nubs". I for one won't be removing them. I'll just wait until PT has a revised version and buy it.

[Darin Jordan]

Some day you have to come over and see my bevy of antique junk!

Grim

Grim,

I still think it would be totally cool to create a "Vintage" class, or have a "Vintage Expo" or something like that where we all get together and bring out the OLD stuff... Maybe make it a "Pre-80's" thing, or whatever, hulls, and put on some races! One could have a division for "Modern and FE" power plants, and then a division for "original" power...

I have two NorthWind "Monos" here (.21 and .45 sized) that would fit the bill...

[Darin Jordan]

I for one won't be removing them.

My guess is that the new one will have them as well... just further out...

I'm kind of with you... I don't think I'm going to remove them either. Just extend the material out on either side of them and make it flush with the bottom of them. In my opinion, they don't qualify as "riding surfaces"... If you boat is riding on those, with 7/8" of tunnel depth, you have some setup issues... Even in the turns...

[RCKong]

No issues here, my boat rides very nicely. Thats why I don't want to change it

[T.S.Davis]

I would support that solution too. Leave the traps and slap some material outsied the nubs on the non trips to get you wide enough. There's no way those are shoes now. The boat isn't riding on them now. It wont be riding on them if they're a 1/4" wider either. To me this is an acceptable solution for those that already have them. Again, I wont be pressing our group to do this unless they plan to hit some sanctioned events.

If we want to get really tech a nickle. Neither book defines "transom" really. What do you do with my Whip40? It has no transom. Is my transom width then 0%? Silly.

[longballlumber]

This is getting more and more interesting…
You guys that HAVE measured are you using the measurement inside to inside of the “nubs” or are you measuring outside to outside of the “nubs”?

There can be a .25” difference in that dimension (.125 on each side)

What about a +/- tolerance in the measurements… I could argue that my measurement (outside to outside) is 6.625. That could change the requirements of fixing.

Later,
Mike

[T.S.Davis]

There's no tolerance Mike.

I think you have to measure out to out. The whole 65% BS is there to keep people from designing a boat that is a rigger. This doesn't do it but I know that was the intent.

There's so much more to sport design than just tub width.

[Darin Jordan]

8" at the top and 6 3/4" at the bottom of the transom.

The measurement I provided is from the outside of the "nubs".

6.75"/11.125" = 60.7%. It needs to have an additional 1/2" (0.48125" ) added to the width at the bottom of the transom.

What about a +/- tolerance in the measurements… I could argue that my measurement (outside to outside) is 6.625. That could change the requirements of fixing.

Later,
Mike

I'm sure there is a tolerance that each individual hull will have... +/- tenths, perhaps... Each owner will want to accurately measure and determine exactly how much material they will have to add, but EACH WILL have to add... based on what people are measuring...

[Darin Jordan]

There's so much more to sport design than just tub width.

+1