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  • FloatDaBoat
    Bare Bones Fabricator
    • Sep 2009
    • 368

    #16
    Battery Hold-Down

    I sanded balsa blocks to the desired thickness to allow battery clearance over the rear boom retaining tube, then coated them (two coats) with thinned-down 30 minute epoxy. I glued the Velcro strips on the balsa blocks with Stick & Seal adhesive, then secured them in place with Scotch double sided mounting tape. The aluminum angle was attached using Super Strength 3M double sided automotive molding tape. The battery will have Velcro Stick & Sealed to the bottom, which will allow for it to be positioned fore or aft to adjust the balance between front & rear sponsons. Tight Fit !!!
    DaPic:
    Attached Files

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    • monojeff
      Moderator
      • Nov 2010
      • 2562

      #17
      Decals headed your way boat is looking great!!
      OSE GIFTING ELF
      HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!

      Comment

      • FloatDaBoat
        Bare Bones Fabricator
        • Sep 2009
        • 368

        #18
        Originally posted by monojeff
        Decals headed your way boat is looking great!!
        Great! Thanks, on both counts. Can't wait to see the decals. I'm to the point now where I need to build a boat stand so I can begin final assembly of all the bits & pieces.

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        • FloatDaBoat
          Bare Bones Fabricator
          • Sep 2009
          • 368

          #19
          Turn Fin Stuff

          I fabricated my turn fin assembly from .090 & .062 inch 6061 aluminum, shaped the pieces with Bastard flat/mill files, then finished with 400 grit paper & fine steel wool. I tapped the sponson brace to accept 3 mm machine screws to secure the turn fin, then attached it to the sponson with # 7 nickel plated hinge screws (with the self tapping portion cut off to facilitate easier removal at a later date - if required) & 30 minute epoxy. [See Pics]
          Attached Files

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          • FloatDaBoat
            Bare Bones Fabricator
            • Sep 2009
            • 368

            #20
            I received my decals from Jeff - - they managed to survive the DREADED USPS Mail Processing Machines. The detail is amazing for such small decals; it’s needless to state, I’m more than satisfied & will not hesitate to be a return customer in the future. Fantastic work, Jeff!!! Thanks!!!

            Comment

            • FloatDaBoat
              Bare Bones Fabricator
              • Sep 2009
              • 368

              #21
              Rigger Stand

              I constructed the Boat Stand from ¼” Poplar stock & ¾” Poplar dowels, then finish coated the bare wood with Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear spray enamel. The padding between the stand & hull tub is cut from self adhesive 1/8” Felt Blanket, cut to size with sheet metal cutting shears (this stuff is tough - - didn’t want to risk ruining my good fiberglass cutting scissors). As I compose this, my wife is sewing the carry straps, which will be attached to the ends of the long dowels at each end of the stand.
              DaPic:
              Attached Files

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              • FloatDaBoat
                Bare Bones Fabricator
                • Sep 2009
                • 368

                #22
                Done Deal Decals

                Applied the decals MonoJeff made for this 18 + inch rigger . . . .
                Attached Files

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                • dana
                  Banned
                  • Mar 2010
                  • 3573

                  #23
                  I'm curious about the stuffing tube meeting the strut. It looks like you left part of the stuffing tube in the strut as well. Am I rite? Is it glued in?

                  Comment

                  • FloatDaBoat
                    Bare Bones Fabricator
                    • Sep 2009
                    • 368

                    #24
                    dana,
                    Here’s a pic of the completed Strut Assy. I used double walled adhesive lined shrink tube to attach the nose of the strut to the Teflon tubing (the Teflon is inserted inside the strut ~ 3/8”) & inner stuffing tube. It’s semi-flexible, retaining the shape it was originally shrunk to until it needs to be bent to adjust the strut height/angle. Because the stuffing tube wants to slide forward or back when the strut’s adjusted, I utilize an outer stuffing tube (which is epoxied into the tub) to allow for this. The shrink tube provides a waterproof seal, & I use Liquid Tape to seal the joint between the inner & outer stuffing tubes. I install a vacuum cap on the end of the lubrication injection tube to keep water out. The only point where water can get into this system is through the prop shaft/bearing surface. I use this method on all my boats, & have never gotten any water inside the hull through the stuffing tube. Hopefully, this explanation answers your question.
                    Attached Files

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                    • FloatDaBoat
                      Bare Bones Fabricator
                      • Sep 2009
                      • 368

                      #25
                      Almost There

                      I’ve installed all the External Hardware. In order to complete the build, I still need to mount the ESC, RCVR, Steering Linkage, & run the Cooling Lines. Pics . . . .
                      Attached Files

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                      • Boaterguy
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • Apr 2011
                        • 1760

                        #26
                        Can't wait to see it scream!

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                        • FloatDaBoat
                          Bare Bones Fabricator
                          • Sep 2009
                          • 368

                          #27
                          Maiden Capable

                          Aside from a few additional details, this little dude is ready to rip - - & I’m already trying to locate a 2850 3330 Kv motor . . . .
                          Attached Files

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                          • Boaterguy
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Apr 2011
                            • 1760

                            #28
                            2857 3200kv, not exactly what you want and i don't know if anyone's tried it but..
                            http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...otor_FIN_.html

                            Comment

                            • FloatDaBoat
                              Bare Bones Fabricator
                              • Sep 2009
                              • 368

                              #29
                              BoaterGuy,
                              Thanks for the link, but that’s a 2-pole, 3.12 mm shafted motor. I need something that has a 4 mm shaft/4 poles and is a direct bolt-in replacement. Leopard makes one (see pics), but I haven’t been able to locate a seller. Steven has the 2860 Series (actually 64 mm in length), but that’s just a mite too long/heavy. Tacon might have something similar, but no luck there, either. Moot point at this stage, though, as I may be satisfied with what I’ve got once I make the initial runs.
                              Attached Files

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