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Batteries in sponsons, escs on tunnel.
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I wouldnt directly solder. Just for maintenance reasons really. It'll be a lot easier if you dunk it to pull the esc's and dry em out if you just use bullets.Comment
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I was just mulling cramming the ESC's in the sponsons as well as the batteries,but it will work out better for Rx wires on the tunnel.They do look good there as well .Guess I'll have to build a CF tray for them.Thanks guys,oh and I was just thinking of the cap temps with direct soldering.I know wire length is more important on the battery side.Comment
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Well,the ESC answer came to me on the way to work this past week in sortof a "Duh" fashion.So here's my solution:
ESC 002.jpgESC 004.jpg
This way all my wires can remain short as I logged a substantial difference when I shortened them.I was able to read the ripple with my Ice 240 on my MG.
Keeping cap temps down is the goal here.I'm still contemplating soldering ESC to motor direct as these motor wires aren't too big and my SW's are waterproofed.
I also installed pins in the front as I have found a decent waterproof for the hatch.(I'll get to that later)
ESC 001.jpg
I hope to get to water lines today as my other supplies have not arrived yet.Comment
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Looks good Shawn. I hope by your comment of finding a way to "waterproof" the hatch, you will still use tape.Comment
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Probably not at first.In my searches for a good hydro and keeping my eyes peeled for my waverunner,many,if not all claim to have the paint peeled by the tape.I do however,know it will greatly help keep the lid on in a mishap.CC Ice 240-RIP
.So I will do everything in my power to avoid this missing clear thing.
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Just remember, unless your puttinga few bolt connections down each side, your hull will probably flex enough to let water in in a crash and may end up cracking or breaking elswhere. As long as you prepped it well, you shouldnt have any paint issues, and if you do, you can always repair it. Tape it, tape it, tape it. Another thing ive seen done, get some 3M clear vinyl and put some an inch wide on both the hatch perimeter and deck opening perimeter. then tape to that.Comment
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Thats a great plan!! Awesome plan Scott my man,another tip from the great.Blushing yet?HeheWhy didn't I think of that.Comment
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No but my head is getting HUGE
Ive thought of doing it on almost every build Ive done, and still havent done it. However, my next personal build I will probably be doing it on.
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Im not sure if that would stay down or not. id imagine it would come up pretty quick.Comment
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I do it on my scale trail trucks around the body pins,just didn't think of that. I guess my vinyl graphics guy should have some of that,now that I have a guy.Comment
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The clear 3M or any other brand is actually not considered vinyl it is laminate.
There are varying thicknesses and types of sheen you can get.
If the paint job is done correctly there should not be a need for this but it is a xtra precaution you could take to make sure no issues will happen with pulling the tape.
Hockey tape is medium tacky and can cause some paint to peel. If it is something your worried about I would recommend using electrical tape which is less tacky and should have no issues with paint peeling. I have even seen some guys using blue painters tape as hatch tape seamed to work good for them.OSE GIFTING ELF
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!Comment
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Thanks for the advice Jeff.I am gonna prep as good as I can but there is gonna be alot of clear on this boat.Comment
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