Aeromarine Titan 40 Heavy Duty Build

[properchopper]

DSC02356.JPGDSC02332-1.JPGDSC02345.JPGDSC02346.JPGAllen P. asked me to build a Titan 40 ( ordinarily 33"; this hull measures 34 1/4" ??).

Allen really pushes his setups so he requested a strong build, especially in anchoring the batteries. I made some battery boxes which also served as a shelf/mount for the T-180. (I'll put velcro down inside once I know what Allen uses on his batteries-He's on vacation right now)He had already installed the motor mount (& stuffing tube which I replaced); motor mount is strong but not my first choice so I had to work around it.Speedmaster quad tabs (inners 1/8" up from bottom and outers 3/32" up.) Speedmaster stinger 3/8" up. These hulls have a deep V so need to stay settled in the water to minimize chine walk. OSE generic rudder, fins, and servo mount. Pushrod boot on 3/8" brass tube for best watertightness. Pinned front of hatch with leatherwork rivet. 2" non-adhesive velcro battery straps with placement to allow for battery relocating for CG adjustment. Trusty Castle/Neu 1515 1Y - should get this rather large hull into the mid-fifties (after which they have a habit of getting airborne

[properchopper]

More pix :

DSC02357-1.JPGDSC02348.JPGDSC02353.JPGDSC02354.JPGMore Pix :

As a bit of shameless self-promotion, I am now accepting commissions to build your (selected) dream boat. I specialize in FE 30's but will consider custom projects. [email protected].

Thanks for looking,

Tony

[runzwithsizorz]

I too, have one of these hulls, that I bought used. I'm currently rebuilding her with high hopes. Mine came with 1/4" ply rails, 4" wide from transom all the way up under the bow. They are glued, and glassed in, so I'm thinking, that's where they'll stay.
With them though, I'm thinking it would be unnecessary to add a layer of CF, (?, your thoughts). If I did, I would go clear up, and passed the seam, for I have seen a 5" split there on another members Titan 40 due to just rough race water, a
heads up for ya Tony. I'm a bit jealous of your battery trays/rails mounted down low, with mine at 4" wide it makes 4s a tight squeeze, and 5s out of the question. Not sure I'd care to have a motor that size go unsupported in the rear. With the larger props that this hull makes darn near mandatory you'll be punching out at 180amps+ frequently during a race, not a lot of head room with that ESC, (imho). The 90 degree water nipples on the esc, glued, or screwed? Do you feel that single rod on the front of the hatch to be enough? I've seen you make better Tony. I remember you fab'ed a strong rudder extension from a rear foot peg you stole off your bike.
Best Regards; Todd in Williamsburg, Va. (50 yrs in San Diego)

[properchopper]

Hey Todd !

The Aero hulls are pretty strong; most come with CF aready there. You may want to add some FG/epoxy to the rails where they contact the hull- I slam dunked my Insane 34" 'er & the whole rail deal came unstuck. I now use West Systems 24 Hr. epoxy with 2" FG tape reinforcing the rail/hull bond. Allen gave me the boat project with the motor mount already gorilla-stuck to the hull so I had to make due with what I had to work with. The mount & hull area are really strong/secure; almost no flex.
Most of us have been using the T-180's with even bigger motors; my IB 34 runs a 1521 1.5D/T-180 with extra caps with no issues & Mark F. has run his FE 30 with same SC & a 1527 safely; also my P-Sport FE 30 uses a 1515 1Y/T-180 (of course it runs much looser). The 90 deg. fittings screw right in and some sealant on the threads for good measure-just be careful unscrewing the straight nipples; insert a drill bit in them to keep them from collapsing & a little heat from a torch & grab with the vicey grips & they should unscrew. The pin on the front hatch has always worked for me & Allen didn't want rear locks so none are there. These hulls are great racewater survivors; Dave Newland won the P-Mono FE Exibition class at the Gas Nat's two weeks ago with his Titan - not quite the fastest boat but kept on truckin' while many of the other entries (mine included) floundered around in the slop left by the previous gasser heats.

[Chilli]

Good to see you back on the board Todd!!!

[D. Newland]

...Dave Newland won the P-Mono FE Exibition class at the Gas Nat's two weeks ago with his Titan - not quite the fastest boat but kept on truckin' while many of the other entries (mine included) floundered around in the slop left by the previous gasser heats.

If you crunch the numbers like I do, only 39% of the time does the boat with the fastest heat time take the class win. That' FE. In gas, it drops to 33%.

However, I did take fast time, too!

[properchopper]

If you crunch the numbers like I do, only 39% of the time does the boat with the fastest heat time take the class win. That' FE. In gas, it drops to 33%.

However, I did take fast time, too!

Sorry D, forgot to mention your fast time.

[D. Newland]

No worries, T! I just want to give the 'ol girl credit. The boat is currently in a major rehab right now. New rails, paint, etc. I've got 6 years of solid racing w/that hull and I plan on another 6!

[runzwithsizorz]

T33 001.jpgShuttle 011.JPG
She was a bit battle weary, worn, and tattered, but when I first laid eyes on her I just knew I had to make her mine, and to one day make her proud.

[Fluid]

I too, have one of these hulls, that I bought used. I'm currently rebuilding her with high hopes. Mine came with 1/4" ply rails, 4" wide from transom all the way up under the bow. They are glued, and glassed in, so I'm thinking, that's where they'll stay. With them though, I'm thinking it would be unnecessary to add a layer of CF, (?, your thoughts).

After an "electric layup" Titan 40 weakened, I built a new nitro version and the rails are an excellent addition IME. They stiffen up the hull and make mounting the motor easy, no need for CF at all. The weak point in AM hulls was the deck/bottom seam. For awhile they used a new glue which did not hold well at all! I reinforced the seam with glass cloth (NOT CF!) especially near the transom and haven't had a problem. It runs a 1521/1.5D with Hydra 240LV and has been a 55 mph bulletproof racer. BTW I still had to add about a pound of lead at the chines to keep it down in Texas race water.....


.

[RaceMechaniX]

Tony,

34" and 1/4" would make it a Q boat, so you going to sand off that last 1/4" or are you rigging this for Q power.

TG

[properchopper]

Tony,

34" and 1/4" would make it a Q boat, so you going to sand off that last 1/4" or are you rigging this for Q power.

TG

Tyler,

I built this for Allen P.; He hasn't expressed any interest in racing since that crazy day in Camarillo when the kiddies got the best of Allen & me (mostly)