Rigger Building: Understanding Propeller, Turn Fin, and Aerodynamic Influences

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  • Meniscus
    Refuse the box exists!
    • Jul 2008
    • 3222

    #1

    Rigger Building: Understanding Propeller, Turn Fin, and Aerodynamic Influences

    Translated from German for everyone's convenience:

    Author: Oliver Siess

    hydro.jpg

    Neutralizing the propeller influences

    If the shaft of your Hydros exactly in the middle (in the longitudinal axis) fitted (top view), the boat will inevitably lead to a slight right turn. This phenomenon occurs because as already mentioned by Radeffekt and its propeller (about) torque ago. Especially large diameter propeller generate considerable torque, for this reason, at Hydro boats preferably relatively small screws at high speeds (= low torque) is preferred.

    Basically, you can resolve this problem by gently moving the rudder to the left so that the boat is in neutral position of the stick straight. However, this is the worst way, since this "obstacle", that is, the rudder, provide valuable input power is not lost.

    A better solution for balancing the propwalks to the shaft holder or the entire shaft slightly (up to 3 degrees) to rotate to the left (limit) is. It is also possible to complete the off-center shaft, so not exactly to install in the imaginary axis of the boat. Depending on the size of the boat propulsion system is then (as seen from above on the boat) by 2-5 mm parallel set right next to the longitudinal axis.

    In both cases, is counteracted by the eccentrically acting now thrust of the PropeIlers Radeffekt, at best, raise the forces (= straight).

    With a rigid shaft system, this must of course be provided already during installation.

    If this measure is not sufficient, other solutions must be applied.

    Although used by most manufacturers an isosceles V-angle in the hydraulic structures, it is common for some outriggers and Hydroplane models to compensate for the breaking of the model to the right with different float positions. Here, the left float (V-angle) is made flat, resulting in a greater wetted sliding surface of this float and thus to a pull to the left. Here, too, raise the forces, while a perfect straight line is the result.

    But as already mentioned, will then trigger the (counter) torque of the propeller pulling the model right, because this is the right float a heavier burden. To compensate, you can either trim weights in or on the left float attach or change the weight distribution in the body so that both swimmers are charged while driving back the same. With outriggers can also set the left float closer to the fuselage.

    It is important that the various measures to neutralize the propwalk and the propeller torque are always executed in mutual agreement!

    But it goes further, because no action without reaction! If the propeller torque lifting the front left float data, it of course, the stern of the boat pushed down slightly. A small wedge, mounted on the rear right side of the fuselage, can help build a counter-torque to the lift effect on the front float. The use of wedges was (and still is) widely used as Outrigger were unknown with rear support floats.

    Which method for balancing the torque or the propwalks for your boat is the best that can be generally said of course not, but they should not as far to move away from the suggestions of the manufacturer.

    Turn Fin.jpg

    Cornering

    If the centrifugal force pushes the body in turns out, it is necessary to create a pivot point. Since Hydros more to move across the water as through, measures are needed to enable a better cornering ability. Hydro One has to almost downright somewhere "hook" to the extent possible to limit drift. This function takes as already mentioned the turn fin. It should be something placed before the focus on the right float. Turn the fin is mounted too far forward, there is a risk that the boat runs out of the course. The performance of these typical "Einkringeln" can often be seen in such boats.

    If the turn fin mounted too far back on the other hand, very much rudder is needed to steer the boat, which of course leads to a loss of speed. Normally, the fin on the back of the right float is attached rather close to the fuselage. However, when the fin is too close to the center line, this can raise the right float. To prevent this, you can bend the fins turn towards the hull to keep the swimmers below.

    For the bending of the fin, there are three possibilities: The turn fin extends fully in 90-degree angle into the water, what more should be the exception, is on some boats but certainly the only way. The second and most common way is to make it in the direction of the fuselage up to 7 °. Another variation is the turn fin to the beginning of the paper in 90 ° angle into the water-dip and curve, only 1 to 2 cm under water from 6 to 8 degrees.

    The boat should have after the attachment of the fin a turbulent ride, check to see whether the fin is aligned straight! Make sure that the front edge of the turn fin is behind the fixing points, as it usually begins to flutter and the boat does not run smoothly with increasing speed. Some swimmers have a back, the reasons of production technology from the bottom front inclined to the rear. This offers a turn fin, which is (viewed from the side) in the fixed angle adjustable so that the above problems are excluded.

    The rear swimmers have the task of the boat in turns to keep quiet. Some hulls, the height of the float to be adjusted. If the stern of your boat drifts in corners too much, it must lie deeper. Then set the float at a lower depth to bring the stern deeper.

    If you set focus and turn right fin and the boat still in turns with the tail "is", you can also create a longer rudder problem. The goal is to take the smallest possible turning radius, without straining the engine by immersion of the hull so strong that he will lose much speed.

    So it is not desirable to reduce the drift effect too much, as it ensures a clean and quiet curves and an efficient power delivery.

    Aero.jpg

    Aerodynamics

    As mentioned above, is a hydro really a ship in the traditional sense. It is more a successful combination of a streamlined ship design with smaller contact surface on the water and many aerodynamic flight characteristics.

    The current "great" Hydroplanes the Unlimited Hydroplane class developed by Hydro-and aerodynamics with doctor and professor. What is left at the end, is much theory, which in turn are "tested" at the object must practice. In the area of ​​aerodynamics can be "let off steam" as an ambitious model builder actually. Now, not just any Schifflesbauer the mainframe computer of the Max-Planck-Institut at home, and so one can only think of what you yourself have tried and what one's colleagues of the "model-flying craft" communicate can do.

    In short: Do not engage in too many experiments!

    Many hydraulic models are equipped according to the original with spoilers and flaps, as they behave aerodynamically, mostly at all not up for debate. What is forgotten is that the originals are developed in a wind tunnel to the last detail and adjustable-board computer, the various front-and rear spoiler while driving. This is of course the model is difficult to understand or because of model-specific problems do not partially realized.

    The Rumpfanstellwinkel is a very important parameter for the "dynamics". An airplane flies because of the negative pressure produced and the pressure under the wings of a boost. The same applies to our model Hydros: a hull with a positive angle of attack will take off at a certain speed at a negative angle of attack it is pressed down. Sharp edges cause air turbulence, which means resistance. Rounded corners and edges to reduce drag.
    Last edited by Meniscus; 05-12-2011, 02:37 PM.
    IMPBA: 7-Time FE World Record Holder "Don't think outside the box. Rather, refuse to admit that the box exists in the first place!"

    MGM Controllers - Giant Power Lipos - ML Boatworks - Wholt's Wire Drives & Struts - Nano-Oil
  • Meniscus
    Refuse the box exists!
    • Jul 2008
    • 3222

    #2
    spoiler.jpg

    The aerodynamics is used for model-Hydros way more important than often assumed. therefore should be avoided all kinds of wings and spoilers, unless they prove to be necessary, for example, the bow down to bring. (Outrigger are designed so that they have the lowest possible aerodynamic drag. The body is reduced to its essentials, the floats are connected to the main fuselage by thin carbon fiber or aluminum poles, wind and water are thus offered the lowest possible resistance.

    Additional spoilers on Hydro or Hydro Plane constructions are often out more as decoration or as cumbersome and often worsen the driving dynamics! Each spoiler means additional air resistance!

    In prototypical Hydroplane models are, of course, spoilers and wings can not be avoided for reasons of appearance, then one can also profitably be used for voting.

    If the spoiler, however, act only as mere decoration, it is a symmetrical airfoil with a 0-degree position to the water surface (ie neither to nor output-generating) use-

    Furthermore, it is recommended that the top of the fuselage slightly arched shape {sketch 7) to ensure better protection from side winds. Some models are already taking into account aerodynamic aspects have been developed, these have been in a longitudinal section of the hull in a semi symmetrical airfoil shape that supports the addition Gleit-/Liftverhalten. Unfortunately, are made for technical reasons or ignorance of many ABS models with a peripheral sealing edge. This means that turbulence at the bow and stern to help bring down to let the boat run more unstable.

    When using front or rear spoilers playing their shape, size and position of an essential role. Most of (quick) Hydros often have the problem to take off with the bow. Before experimenting with spoilers, should the trim and propeller settings are optimized. then the boat should still have a tendency to take off with the bow, one can begin to experiment with front spoilers. Unfortunately there is no rule of thumb for size and shape, front spoiler, however, should always lie in front of the gravity of the boat. Often help small aluminum brackets that are mounted in the bow area and between the floats. It is important that they are mounted high enough, because it may cause difficulty in starting.

    Use with all spoilers are hard material. Fiberglass or aluminum plates with thicknesses of 1-3 mm are recommended, since with increasing speed properly "pressure" acting on it. The simplest solution is often the best that they avoid complicated adjustment mechanisms in spoilers. Especially for small e-Hydros should the weight factor "can not be neglected. Suffice aluminum strips that are made with the pliers, depending on demand.

    For larger boats (such as 1 / 8 Scale Hydro-) of course there is the possibility of the spoilers on the RC system to control. Exaggerate but not the effort in this area, even for large boats is the weight factor exists, and an adjustment of the spoiler while driving is (mostly) does not make sense, since the conditions in the model performance change so fast that an effective readjustment by the far away on the banks of the stationary model can not be captain. It is better there already, check on the water and wind conditions before the start and, if the spoiler up or shutting it down.

    Experiments with gyros from the helicopters and pneumatic spoiler adjustments are indeed improve technical tidbits, but the driving dynamics of a Hydroplanes not essential.

    The rear wing can / should have a slightly (!) Have positive angle of attack, to lift the rear end and push the nose down. Here, however, the wing shape also plays a crucial role. To illustrate the enormous power of salaried wing it suffices to while driving at 50 km / h, the palm out the window holds. You'll be amazed! Achieve this speed already well-tuned 7-cell outrigger with no problems.

    In order not to much to go into the wings of physics, I recommend a symmetrical airfoil. If you already have a rear wing fitted with a semi-symmetrical profile on your Hydro, is a 0 degrees to slightly negative position of advantage. The experimentation are no limits here, you walk away not too far from the "base".

    The attachment of the rear spoiler and the side and main tail should indeed be constructed stable, but have so-called break points of the torso and the sides of the main wing connections

    proved extremely useful. These can be easily achieved through the use of plastic screws (= breaking point). Hydro then really makes your time 'nen Adler (and this is certainly not unique), it pulls the boat does not equal the whole tail (and spoiler) away.

    scale.jpg


    Conclusion

    As you have noted in this report with certainty that the vote of a Hydro depends on many factors. One should, however, from the diversity of individual angles, surfaces can not be so confusing. Complying with some basis and is a problem after another, one will be sure to achieve a presentable result. There may be no more charming area than to experiment with models at the interface between water and air. In this sense:



    Keep the boats in the air!
    IMPBA: 7-Time FE World Record Holder "Don't think outside the box. Rather, refuse to admit that the box exists in the first place!"

    MGM Controllers - Giant Power Lipos - ML Boatworks - Wholt's Wire Drives & Struts - Nano-Oil

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    • Steven Vaccaro
      Administrator
      • Apr 2007
      • 8724

      #3
      Good stuff!
      Steven Vaccaro

      Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!

      Comment

      • Meniscus
        Refuse the box exists!
        • Jul 2008
        • 3222

        #4
        There's more, just need the time to translate the German into something meaningful, but these are the highlights. I did post some references to Canards on Simon's thread.
        IMPBA: 7-Time FE World Record Holder "Don't think outside the box. Rather, refuse to admit that the box exists in the first place!"

        MGM Controllers - Giant Power Lipos - ML Boatworks - Wholt's Wire Drives & Struts - Nano-Oil

        Comment

        • Ub Hauled
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Aug 2007
          • 3031

          #5
          Me likes...
          is this Oliver Siess the same as the Hydro and Marine one?
          :::::::::::::::. It's NEVER fast enough! .:::::::::::::::

          Comment

          • Meniscus
            Refuse the box exists!
            • Jul 2008
            • 3222

            #6
            I would assume so, but don't know for sure.
            IMPBA: 7-Time FE World Record Holder "Don't think outside the box. Rather, refuse to admit that the box exists in the first place!"

            MGM Controllers - Giant Power Lipos - ML Boatworks - Wholt's Wire Drives & Struts - Nano-Oil

            Comment

            • detox
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Jun 2008
              • 2310

              #7
              Originally posted by Meniscus
              If the turn fin mounted too far back on the other hand, very much rudder is needed to steer the boat, which of course leads to a loss of speed.
              He mentions that if the turnfin is mounted too far back this will slow boat in turns. Some HYDRO boats have a fixed turnfin location which can be hard to move turnfin more forward. So wouldn't the only fix be to lengthen the rudder bracket and propeller shaft bracket. I could use the Speedmaster brackets that are designed for a mono. This would move the turnfin on my Whiplash 3/4" more forward to hopefully add more speed in turns. I will try
              Last edited by detox; 05-13-2011, 09:53 PM.

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