JAE FE21 Build Fiberglass

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  • electric
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • May 2008
    • 1744

    #16
    Originally posted by Chuck E Cheese
    watch out because that castle/neu 2200 will eat a 120 esc right away. i ran a 1415 neu 2200 and used the t180 with a different water cooling plate and it worked well. properchopper has some tips on one of his insane hydro threads on using 90 degree fittings that would also work.
    http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ght=neu+rigger
    I agree with what you are saying and have also wondered whether a 120 can handle it. hmm. Do you know where I can get the correct 90 degree fittings? I may go ahead an squeeze in the t180 since I have it.

    Comment

    • electric
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • May 2008
      • 1744

      #17
      Originally posted by Scott T
      Looking good Electric. I got one of these from Eric as well, so I'm watching your thread with interest.

      Just a note on the ski, the wood should be in two pieces. The long back section goes on first, then the front of it is sanded to match the front of the ski (glass part). Then the front wood part is glued on with a slight overhang - just like the front of the sponsons. Download the instructions from Zippkit and it shows what I'm talking about.

      Cheers,
      Scott
      Hmmm.. Scott,l guess when I get back home and have some time I will re-examine the instructions. I did figure that I would just flush up the wood with the fiberglass under the strut since that still presents a sharp edge and overhang on the back side of the skid.

      I think I understand what you are saying about the front part of the center skid, will recheck the instructions...

      Thanks for the feedback!

      Comment

      • battlefury
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2010
        • 256

        #18
        Originally posted by electric
        I agree with what you are saying and have also wondered wheter a 120 can handle it. hmm. Do you know where I can get the correct 90 degree fittings? I may go ahead an squeeze in the t180 since I have it.
        Squeeze it in. It can be purchase at kintec racing at 8 bucks each. Heres how it will look in the end.
        Attached Files
        http://www.youtube.com/user/f4agusta09?feature=mhee

        Comment

        • electric
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • May 2008
          • 1744

          #19
          Originally posted by battlefury
          Squeeze it in. It can be purchase at kintec racing at 8 bucks each. Heres how it will look in the end.
          Thanks!
          Is this the right one's description..?

          90 Degree High Flow Water Fittings Since there are no high flow 90 degree micro fittings in any industry Kintec answers the demand. Soon to be the standard in boat fittings these are made with you in mind. Fully adjustable to point in any direction. Small and compact made of brass and comes with fitted o-rings. 10-32 thread.

          Comment

          • battlefury
            Senior Member
            • Sep 2010
            • 256

            #20
            Opps. My bad it should be Banjo fittings priced at 5 bucks.
            You would want your T180 to fit so it these low profile fittings to go along.
            Alternatively, a much safer bet would be a suppo ESC 200A. That definatley will fit i am sure.
            http://www.youtube.com/user/f4agusta09?feature=mhee

            Comment

            • Eric Bourlet
              Senior Member
              • Jan 2010
              • 104

              #21
              Originally posted by Scott T
              Looking good Electric. I got one of these from Eric as well, so I'm watching your thread with interest.

              Just a note on the ski, the wood should be in two pieces. The long back section goes on first, then the front of it is sanded to match the front of the ski (glass part). Then the front wood part is glued on with a slight overhang - just like the front of the sponsons. Download the instructions from Zippkit and it shows what I'm talking about.

              Cheers,
              Scott
              Good points Scott the entire reason I did not attach the sheeting is to allow it to be done after it's painted so that you can get sharp edges. These boats rely on the sharp edges to keep it freed up. This allows you to pull larger props and go faster because they work using Bernoulli rather than fighting it. When done right the bottom of these are not a show piece they need to be block sanded for sharp edges and that little overhang at the front helps too. Now that it looks like you have it sanded to blend I would not redo it but make sure that you block sand it to an angle and not rounded in.
              Eric Bourlet
              Team Airtronics
              Team M&D Designs

              Comment

              • properchopper
                rcgoatbuild@snotmail.com
                • Apr 2007
                • 6953

                #22
                Hey Jim,

                If you go with the T-180 and use the banjo fittings, you'll have a width of 168 mm to deal with side-to-side with the banjo's installed. The early T-180 hose barbs unscrewed fairly easily; the latest T-180's have some sealant holding them in pretty tight, and when gripped with pliers to screw them out , the barbs collapse and can break off. Do this :

                Insert a 9/64" drill bit into the barb. This will keep it from collapsing when you grip it. I use a needle-nose vice grip.

                Hit the area where the barb enters the cooling plate with a small butane torch flame to heat and expand the joint.

                Say a prayer to the FE God, and unscrew.

                Put some sealant on the banjo threads, be careful not to get the sealant into the passage of the banjo & install.

                Here's one I did today for a customer's FE 30 and my P-Sport Fe 30 - room for 4S2P using the banjos. Worked also to stuff a T-180 in my tunnel

                Nice build; like the glass tub. May have to try one of them riggeramajiggers

                Tony
                Attached Files
                2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
                2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
                '11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono

                Comment

                • electric
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • May 2008
                  • 1744

                  #23
                  Thanks again for all the help. Just got back in town this evening. I am heading out for the long weekend in the morning. Hopefully, I will have some time to work on it Monday. Never enough free time!!!

                  Comment

                  • electric
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • May 2008
                    • 1744

                    #24
                    Decided to correct the mistake on the center ski. I have a good stationary belt sander so I carefully took the wood off on the leading edge. I then fashioned a seperate piece of wood to get the desired effect on the ski. I have not glued it in place because I want to get some response to what I have done before I make it permanent.

                    Does the length of the wood look right?

                    As far as the keeping a sharp edge on the length of the center ski, I have some ideas how I will accomplish that.
                    Attached Files
                    Last edited by electric; 05-31-2011, 10:40 PM.

                    Comment

                    • Scott T
                      Senior Member
                      • Oct 2007
                      • 590

                      #25
                      Electric, that ski looks better, should be right like that.
                      Scott Tapsall
                      Pine Rivers Model Powerboat Club - Facebook Page
                      My Gallery

                      Comment

                      • electric
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • May 2008
                        • 1744

                        #26
                        Originally posted by Scott T
                        Electric, that ski looks better, should be right like that.
                        Thanks, will glue it down tonight. I just ordered the paint. I originally bought some Krylon, but based on others issues and my own on past boats I am going to try something different as suggested in the painting thread that is active right now. Should take a week for the paint to arrive.

                        Comment

                        • electric
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • May 2008
                          • 1744

                          #27
                          Ray seemed to have good luck with this.. so I ordered two cans of the yellow with a clear coat as well. Figured it can ONLY be better than Krylon.

                          "If you try Molotow Premium this will not happen. Paints onto anything, even when wet, doesn't run unless you are a complete idiot and leaves no dust finish. This stuff is wacky!"

                          http://artprimo.com/catalog/art_prim...mium_info_page

                          Comment

                          • Eric Bourlet
                            Senior Member
                            • Jan 2010
                            • 104

                            #28
                            I like the new ski it looks good. Any news on the other fiberglass tubs I sold? It would be nice to hear if anyone has one running other than me.
                            Eric Bourlet
                            Team Airtronics
                            Team M&D Designs

                            Comment

                            • teddyboy
                              Senior Member
                              • Jan 2010
                              • 518

                              #29
                              JAE Rigger

                              Eric, I have gotten mine, but delayed constuction due to the Zipp Kits hardware kit has just come available. The new hardware strut is adjustable. I will be starting when all of the materials are in hand and ready to start setting up the stuffing tube and ski.

                              Best to all
                              Ted H. Wachter
                              West Florida Model Boat Club
                              East Texas RC Boaters

                              Comment

                              • Scott T
                                Senior Member
                                • Oct 2007
                                • 590

                                #30
                                Originally posted by Eric Bourlet
                                I like the new ski it looks good. Any news on the other fiberglass tubs I sold? It would be nice to hear if anyone has one running other than me.
                                I've finally got some time to work on mine, so I've started to document it here - http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...594#post328594
                                Scott Tapsall
                                Pine Rivers Model Powerboat Club - Facebook Page
                                My Gallery

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