JAE FE21 Build Fiberglass
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Hmmm.. Scott,l guess when I get back home and have some time I will re-examine the instructions. I did figure that I would just flush up the wood with the fiberglass under the strut since that still presents a sharp edge and overhang on the back side of the skid.Looking good Electric. I got one of these from Eric as well, so I'm watching your thread with interest.
Just a note on the ski, the wood should be in two pieces. The long back section goes on first, then the front of it is sanded to match the front of the ski (glass part). Then the front wood part is glued on with a slight overhang - just like the front of the sponsons. Download the instructions from Zippkit and it shows what I'm talking about.
Cheers,
Scott
I think I understand what you are saying about the front part of the center skid, will recheck the instructions...
Thanks for the feedback!Comment
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Squeeze it in. It can be purchase at kintec racing at 8 bucks each. Heres how it will look in the end.Attached FilesComment
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Thanks!
Is this the right one's description..?
90 Degree High Flow Water Fittings Since there are no high flow 90 degree micro fittings in any industry Kintec answers the demand. Soon to be the standard in boat fittings these are made with you in mind. Fully adjustable to point in any direction. Small and compact made of brass and comes with fitted o-rings. 10-32 thread.Comment
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Opps. My bad it should be Banjo fittings priced at 5 bucks.
You would want your T180 to fit so it these low profile fittings to go along.
Alternatively, a much safer bet would be a suppo ESC 200A. That definatley will fit i am sure.Comment
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Good points Scott the entire reason I did not attach the sheeting is to allow it to be done after it's painted so that you can get sharp edges. These boats rely on the sharp edges to keep it freed up. This allows you to pull larger props and go faster because they work using Bernoulli rather than fighting it. When done right the bottom of these are not a show piece they need to be block sanded for sharp edges and that little overhang at the front helps too. Now that it looks like you have it sanded to blend I would not redo it but make sure that you block sand it to an angle and not rounded in.Looking good Electric. I got one of these from Eric as well, so I'm watching your thread with interest.
Just a note on the ski, the wood should be in two pieces. The long back section goes on first, then the front of it is sanded to match the front of the ski (glass part). Then the front wood part is glued on with a slight overhang - just like the front of the sponsons. Download the instructions from Zippkit and it shows what I'm talking about.
Cheers,
ScottComment
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Hey Jim,
If you go with the T-180 and use the banjo fittings, you'll have a width of 168 mm to deal with side-to-side with the banjo's installed. The early T-180 hose barbs unscrewed fairly easily; the latest T-180's have some sealant holding them in pretty tight, and when gripped with pliers to screw them out , the barbs collapse and can break off. Do this :
Insert a 9/64" drill bit into the barb. This will keep it from collapsing when you grip it. I use a needle-nose vice grip.
Hit the area where the barb enters the cooling plate with a small butane torch flame to heat and expand the joint.
Say a prayer to the FE God, and unscrew.
Put some sealant on the banjo threads, be careful not to get the sealant into the passage of the banjo & install.
Here's one I did today for a customer's FE 30 and my P-Sport Fe 30 - room for 4S2P using the banjos. Worked also to stuff a T-180 in my tunnel
Nice build; like the glass tub. May have to try one of them riggeramajiggers
Tony
2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
'11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /MonoComment
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Decided to correct the mistake on the center ski. I have a good stationary belt sander so I carefully took the wood off on the leading edge. I then fashioned a seperate piece of wood to get the desired effect on the ski. I have not glued it in place because I want to get some response to what I have done before I make it permanent.
Does the length of the wood look right?
As far as the keeping a sharp edge on the length of the center ski, I have some ideas how I will accomplish that.Last edited by electric; 05-31-2011, 10:40 PM.Comment
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Electric, that ski looks better, should be right like that.Comment
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Thanks, will glue it down tonight. I just ordered the paint. I originally bought some Krylon, but based on others issues and my own on past boats I am going to try something different as suggested in the painting thread that is active right now. Should take a week for the paint to arrive.Comment
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Ray seemed to have good luck with this.. so I ordered two cans of the yellow with a clear coat as well. Figured it can ONLY be better than Krylon.
"If you try Molotow Premium this will not happen. Paints onto anything, even when wet, doesn't run unless you are a complete idiot and leaves no dust finish. This stuff is wacky!"
http://artprimo.com/catalog/art_prim...mium_info_pageComment
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I like the new ski it looks good. Any news on the other fiberglass tubs I sold? It would be nice to hear if anyone has one running other than me.Comment
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JAE Rigger
Eric, I have gotten mine, but delayed constuction due to the Zipp Kits hardware kit has just come available. The new hardware strut is adjustable. I will be starting when all of the materials are in hand and ready to start setting up the stuffing tube and ski.
Best to allTed H. Wachter
West Florida Model Boat Club
East Texas RC BoatersComment
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I've finally got some time to work on mine, so I've started to document it here - http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...594#post328594Comment
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