First Build, Balsa/Ply 28.5inch 1980 Pak n Pay Hydro

[Stuey]

Hi, my name is Stu,
I am attempting a scratch build, quite new in this game with more of a background in RC Cars, but love the brushless/lipo combinations available these days and thought they were a great idea in a hydroplane with very little resistance in the water while on plane.
I have a backgroung in industrial painting and I am sure that a 2 pot paint system can make one of these balsa boats waterproof and strong,, but I have to build the thing first to paint it.
My lack of knowledge is definitely in the building part, have done my research, but any advice or knowledge is definitely appreciated and welcome.

Specs to date are as follows:
28.5 inch balsa boat with 1/64 ply cladding
Aquacraft UL1 powerplant, 60A ESC with 36-56-2030Kv supported by Orion 7.4v Carbon Molecular Lipos x 2, 45/90c discharge
Speedmaster mini hardware on the rear with 3/16" Flexidrive inside two copper tubes
Aquacraft UL1 Turnfin
Allof the above are able to be changed if required.

I welcome anyones enquiries, and hope I can help with some of the paint reaction problems I notice you guys seem to have happen, basic rule of thumb, stick with one brand/system and things normally run smoothly. however, the only real paint is 2pot paint for the best finish,,,throw those aerosols out the back door..

Many thanks to Steve Vaccaro for advice on drive systems for something like this, and I plan on using his products where possible

[siberianhusky]

Nice! One of my favorite boats. Almost did one in 1/10 this winter, changed my mind to Miss Wahoo at the last minute.
Since I need a new build I might go ahead with the PnP.
Any idea of the paint code for the orange? Have a file on this boat with as many pics and info as I have been able to find. Not sure what year I'd build, a few small cosmetic changes between them.
Looks good!

[Stuey]

Thanks Mr Husky'
Sorry but unsure of the paint code as I am planning on doing my own paint scheme in 2 pot epoxy, Red, Black and Silver.
Many paint shops have machines with an optical eye which can reproduce a colour, but of course you need the correct colour from the start to supply them with.
Good to do the Pak n Pay I thought as you are able to construct the lid out of balsa rather than an aftermarket add-on, and yeah quite an original looking boat.
No big air-scoop hanging over the cockpit too which I thought would be good for aerodynamics.

[TotalPackage]

I love your boat. I like the pay n paks .wann see a real sharp one look at this:







Wolf Whistle

[Stuey]

Thanks for the pic Total Package, have printed it and added it to my file, the design of the paint scheme is inspirational.
Well what is better than one big V8,,, two big V8's of course, fantastic.

[Stuey]

On the subject of powerplants, does anyone have any suggestions for electric motors for the size of the boat I am building? The specs on my plan call for a 2200kv brushless motor with an Octura 642-646 prop...

[siberianhusky]

UL-1 set up would rip!
Thats the one of the spec motors for 1/10 hydro under one of the few sets of rules out there for 1/10 racing.
Probably be a pretty lightly loaded set up amp wise. Considering yours is an inch or two shorter than a UL-1

[TotalPackage]

540 9xl on 4s

[Stuey]

progress...

Thanks for the motor recommendations, sounds like the UL1 motor is a pretty good choice.
Well have the bottom skins on now and all faired up, the next stage is to apply a 1/64th ply over these areas.
I have been using a bit of laminating epoxy lately and think this will be a way better product than standard epoxy for doing this, the flow it has is huge.
The front tubs are all waterproofed with laminating epoxy, which is why they are now reddy-brown. definitely think this stuff must be easier to use than a thick standard epoxy.
I have used carbon fibre strap as stringers to go under the top decks, partly because I just like carbon fibre and also to give me a bit more room in the tub if required. Maybe receivers and speed controllers and things can fit under there to keep the weight forward.
I do have a question regarding strut placement on the back end, apparently it is meant to be offset to the right a bit? Is this for torque reasons? What would be an advisable offset from the centreline transom? Do you offset the motor and driveshaft too? or does that not matter?

Stu

[Stuey]

Pics,,,

Whoops,, forgot the pics of progress