DF Sniper 45 T-Mono Build Target 100mph

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Tyler where did get the Lehner 3080? what website sell them in us? i am looking for one.

Philip

[RaceMechaniX]

I bought them directly from Lehner in Germany.

[RaceMechaniX]

Got a little more work done this week. 2 part foam has been installed in the nose and in the sides. It came out OK, not as nice as I would have hoped, but the hull is rock solid now. Also installed the battery tray. It will have carbon cloth on both sides to support the 10S2P worth of batteries that will sit atop it. Right now its just the bottom that has carbon. All the hardware is mounted and bottom has been blue-printed.







Next step is to finish the battery trays with velcro on the floor and some velcro straps running side to side.

[Make-a-Wake]

Looks awesome............can you tell me how a flooded tube works?

[millzee]

The boat looks tough, love it. I'm sorry for the newbie question dirtying up your thread but I'm wondering how the stuffing tube is supported, I get the idea of the flooded tube but I just can't see any support to hold the brass tube in place?

[RaceMechaniX]

The idea behind the flooded stuffing tube is to allow vertical moving of the strut. If you just had the stuffing tube pass through the transom and it was a tight fit so it sealed the water then it would be impossible to allow for any strut adjustment. In nitro and gas boats we just make an oval hole in the back and leave it open for water to drain out. In the FE boats, we have to seal it, so we install a larger tube which the stuffing tube fits in. We epoxy the tube in the rear on the OD to seal the tube to the transom. In the front of the tube, we seal the stuffing tube to the ID of the big tube. Now we have a sealed tube, but with th extra length between where the stuffing tube is sealed and where we have the strut we have enough bend allowance in the stuffing tube to make strut adjustments. The stuffing tube is supported near the motor by the expoxy and its supported at the rear by the strut.

Hopefully that all makes sense.

[Make-a-Wake]

Yep.....thanks!

[Punisher 67]

Looks awesome............can you tell me how a flooded tube works?

I was wondering about that , thanks for asking.....................

Tyler so thats what green grass looks like , Jeez we are frozen here to the earths core and its been so long..............

[RaceMechaniX]

Peter,

It was a nice day here in the 60's, great to be out working in the garage. However Sunday I head back to Detroit for more sleet and snow :-(

TG

[millzee]

The idea behind the flooded stuffing tube is to allow vertical moving of the strut. If you just had the stuffing tube pass through the transom and it was a tight fit so it sealed the water then it would be impossible to allow for any strut adjustment. In nitro and gas boats we just make an oval hole in the back and leave it open for water to drain out. In the FE boats, we have to seal it, so we install a larger tube which the stuffing tube fits in. We epoxy the tube in the rear on the OD to seal the tube to the transom. In the front of the tube, we seal the stuffing tube to the ID of the big tube. Now we have a sealed tube, but with th extra length between where the stuffing tube is sealed and where we have the strut we have enough bend allowance in the stuffing tube to make strut adjustments. The stuffing tube is supported near the motor by the expoxy and its supported at the rear by the strut.

Hopefully that all makes sense.

thanks mate, I like that idea and may use it one day, I appreciate you going through it like that.

[RaceMechaniX]

Thanks for the catching that Peter, I'll fix the original post. I thought I almost had the whole chart memorized.

TG

[Punisher 67]

Not a problem Tyler

Yes I have looked the chart lots also pondering , for anyone else that is curious on whats available from Lehner here is a PDF attachment that lists all the motors , winds and relative KV's

[Anbjorn]

Good to see your progress.
I will be cheering for your 100mph goal
Anbjørn

[RaceMechaniX]

A little more work done today. Last night I added carbon to the top of the battery tray. The U shaped cutout will allow me to mount a 11/32" collar with an oil fitting to clamp the tubes together and lube the flex shaft in between runs.



This morning I blueprinted the bottom using 400 grit and lots of water. The hull right out of the mold was very flat and straight, it did not take much gelcoat removal to flatten of the last 1/3 of the V.



This afternoon I went down to West Marine and found these Stainless webbing tie downs. They are a little bulky, but I am sure they will hold up. I made some pedestals to mount them on out of some basswood. T-nuts were counterbored and pressed in from the bottom. Prior to epoxying them in place I use a small dot of tape to cover the thread hole so eposy does not fill the threaded section. The bottom and one side of the pedestal match the rail and bottom of the V so it has two solid gluing surfaces.

[Brushless55]

Yeah baby!