First boat, Delta Force 35" Pirate

[millzee]

thanks guy's, I ended up adding an extra 5mm and strengthened the end of the stuffing tube by sliding a 5mm spacer of 1/4" onto the 7/32" bushing, I then cut a piece of 9/32" to make a sleeve to slide over the end of the 1/4" stuffing tube and then I slid the 7/32" bushing that has the 1/4" 5mm spacer into the both the 1/4" and 9/32" end of the tube which sandwiches all the different sizes and lengths together so from the plywood support to the flared end of the tube, the tube is three layers, 7/32", 1/4" and 9/32". I would like to think this one should hold up a little better than my first attempt. Just working on the cooling lines at the moment, I hope my order comes in the next few day's so I can use the new flex shaft and get back in the water.

[millzee]

I got the order today so I've made the new flex and fitted it finishing the new drive line. I need to know if I've got this thrust bearing fitted correctly? I've put a few pic's here so you can let me know if I've installed the thrust bearing right and a few pic's of the stuffing tube all ready to run.

[Rumdog]

Ditch the thrust bearing. You need a gap there because the cable will compress and shrink up under load.

[FloatDaBoat]

Ditch the thrust bearing. You need a gap there because the cable will compress and shrink up under load.

Better yet, move the thrust bearing between the motor end plate & the coupler.

[millzee]

Better yet, move the thrust bearing between the motor end plate & the coupler.

I was wondering about that, the motor shaft has a little outward play (towards the prop) but no inward play(back into the motor, would the bearing still be needed there?

[FloatDaBoat]

Placing the thrust bearing between the motor & coupler prevents pressure from being applied to the front motor bearing. You still need a gap between the strut & drive dog.

[millzee]

Placing the thrust bearing between the motor & coupler prevents pressure from being applied to the front motor bearing. You still need a gap between the strut & drive dog.

cool, thanks, I'll swap it over b4 I run it again. I'm thinking of trying the X445 again first to see the temps without the binding issues and then going up to the X450 as suggested by fluid, should be fun.

[rearwheelin]

That thrust bearing will not work right , it is bigger than the O.D. of the stinger strut and it will catch the water and send it up the tube into your boat ! I favor a thrust ''Washers'' at the strut and use struts that will allow me to use thrust washers there....I have never used thrust bearings on the strut, or even the motor , my boats thrust at the transom and not the motor via 3/16 cable gap between the drive dog and strut......I have never busted a cable or a motor bearing.....................I am not saying the way I do my drives is for everyone but it has worked for me and I can see the diffrence in handling ..........Milzee just go with what everyone else usually does and ditch the thrust bearing and washers at your strut , since you desided not to run liners that makes you setup to thrust with you cable. Its not good to thrust with your cable with liners........I agree get rid of that bearing, its the wrong one anyway......

[millzee]

Thanks mate, I guess I now have 5 of these in the parts box, I'll find a use for them one day.

That thrust bearing will not work right , it is bigger than the O.D. of the stinger strut and it will catch the water and send it up the tube into your boat ! I favor a thrust ''Washers'' at the strut and use struts that will allow me to use thrust washers there....I have never used thrust bearings on the strut, or even the motor , my boats thrust at the transom and not the motor via 3/16 cable gap between the drive dog and strut......I have never busted a cable or a motor bearing.....................I am not saying the way I do my drives is for everyone but it has worked for me and I can see the diffrence in handling ..........Milzee just go with what everyone else usually does and ditch the thrust bearing and washers at your strut , since you desided not to run liners that makes you setup to thrust with you cable. Its not good to thrust with your cable with liners........I agree get rid of that bearing, its the wrong one anyway......

[marko500]

I've got a whole drawer in my toolbox of "seemed like a good idea at the time parts". Most end up getting used somewhere and on something. The more I learn in this hobby the less I put into that drawer.

Mark

[Rumdog]

The only way you can thrust from the strut is with a wire drive or one of those 4mm flexes with square end and captured prop shaft.

[millzee]

I just finished putting her all back together and fitted it out with a slightly different layout. I will now have room for the gps I just bought so I'll be able to get more of an indication of how I'm tracking. I got rid of the thrust bearing and in the 3/16th gap I put a piece of silicone tube that fills about 6/8th of the gap. I packed a heap of grease in the tube and did this a few times, enough to cause the coupler to be full of grease which was a pain when I gave it all a dry test, the grease sprayed in a nice streight line from one side of the hull to the other. This may have been amplified by the fact that the motor wires needed to be switch as it was rotating the wrong way, this was a pain as I had not long shrink wrapped the bloody things, fixed the esc in place and had the layout ready to run, yet again another lesson learned, test b4 set up. The new aluminium cooling lines worked well, no water in the boat and I was able to have enough pressure going through the cooling system so the water was spraying out the outlets about 6-7', all good until extention length I'd put on the tap fitting I made had a blow out and soaked my shoes. I hope to get it wet inn the next day or so, I just have to find enough time to play in the daylight hours. Goodnight.

[marko500]

Take a left over piece of cooling hose and with a razor blade or knive and cut 1/8 inch pieces off. I use a needle nose plier and open up these up and slip them over the cooling line and then slip cooling line over your fitting. The 1/8 inch pieces then act as clamps to hold the cooling line onto the fittings. Did I explain this OK. Maybe I should just grab the camera and start taking pictures, sometimes I confuse myself! I do this on ever fitting on every one of my boats and have never had a line leak or fall off.

Mark

[marko500]

I reread your post and missed the shoes part the first time. Thought you had a line blow off inside the boat. Still a good idea to do anyways. Time for another cup of coffee...

Mark

[Rumdog]

Get rid of the tube between the dog and strut too. you want NOTHING there. It will just cause unnecessary friction, and will distort when the drive dog hits it.