First boat, Delta Force 35" Pirate

[DISAR]

I would go with the first 2 photos, do the batteries fit on the sides and motor in the center? in case you need to bring the batteries aft.

[millzee]

the batteries wont fit up either side of the motor, there 6s and pritty chunky, I just tried with a piece of ply under the batteries lifting them so the stuffing tube could run under and I can move the motor back down a tad which would make the wires reach the esc, if I did that I may be able to move the batteries around more although would it make it a bit top heavy with the batteries sitting just under the hatch?

[Chuck E Cheese]

the one thing i will warn you about is that in my experience short stuffing tubes leak... i feel it needs to be atleast 4" from the trandsom. in pic #2 you are stuck, you can not bring the cog twards the rear if needed. make sure you leave your self room to adjust from 25% (to low) to 35% (to high). i run all my monos at 27-28%. i am partial to the forward motor placement but agree that it is not a good idea to add wire (it is like adding heat). i have done it on some riggers where part placement is limited but wouldnt recomend it with the 1717, shorter is better. the driveshaft and cooling lines dont care how long they are but the wires do.

i would try to go with something like picture #5 only bring the batteries and motor back and put the esc either in front or on the side of the motor.

in the example below i feel that the stuffing tube is to short. this boat takes on a little water every run and that is the only possable place it is coming in. i have only played with it a few times and need to find out what is going on but the best i can come up with is the tube is to short. i plan on lining it with paper towels and doing one lap to see if i can find a leak but am almost sure it is the stuffing tube. in the tub and under presure it doesnt leak at all. on the other hand the 2nd picture doesnt leak a drop with the stuffing tube beingn about 1 1/2" longer. also the longer the stuffing tube the straighter the shaft which = less friction (to a degree)

in my picture or your boat the battery on the port side and esc can both be moved for and aft to adjust the cog. this is just something you have to play with untill you find the right set-up. remember that there is no right or wrong way, just ones that work and dont work. the boat doesnt care about anything except the cog...

just my opinions

[johnson22456]

[millzee]

thanks mate, that's very helpful. I'll keep around now I have that advise and see what I can come up with thanks.

[DISAR]

since the batteries don't fit on the sides, chuck's advise is your only solution. just check the cog to be around 28-30% because this boat will go very fast! your setup should hit at least 60mph.

[millzee]

I got a start on it tonight, fitted the hardware to the best of my ability, I've had a few ideas now for the internal layout thanks to your comments, I'll have a crack at that tomorrow. Do you think I should cut the rudder just below the bottom water intake?

[Chuck E Cheese]

your rudder bracket looks long. typicaly the leading edge of the rudder should be even with the drive dog

[DISAR]

I think that your trim tabs should move a bit outwards, to have a distance between each other at least the prop diameter. but the typical situation- no space...

[millzee]

your rudder bracket looks long. typicaly the leading edge of the rudder should be even with the drive dog

I will get a 4" bracket, on the length of the rudder, should I just cut it off just bellow the bottom water intake, what do you think?

[millzee]

I think that your trim tabs should move a bit outwards, to have a distance between each other at least the prop diameter. but the typical situation- no space...

It amazes me that a hull that's 35"x 10 1/4" has so little space to mount the hardware, if it was only 1/2" taller in the transom I could have spaced them out a bit more. Im wondering if there is any very narrow trim tabs that will fit between the turnfins and the tabs I've put on?

[Chuck E Cheese]

i think the trim tabs will be ok.. alot of these hulls dont even need them. as for the rudder, i wouldnt go hacking it off right away. see what the others are doing with the 40" hulls and go from there. just remember you can always take more off but you cant put any back on..... cut it a little at a time.

[millzee]

Just a few pic's of more progress and a few questions that I need some clarification on. How much flex shaft should I expose between the stuffing tube and the motor coupler? Can the ESC be on any angle, what I mean is, is it ok to have it on the same angle as the hull or should I make a little stand and get it to sit flat? I think I should have plenty of room for battery adjustment to find the cog with this lay out, I plan on supports for the stuffing tube and maybe some thin ply under the battery area and then I'll fibre glass it all in place and strengthen, any suggestion b4 I do?

[millzee]

I need some clarification on. How much flex shaft should I expose between the stuffing tube and the motor coupler? Can the ESC be on any angle, what I mean is, is it ok to have it on the same angle as the hull or should I make a little stand and get it to sit flat?

[rearwheelin]

With .187 cable I would go no more than a quarter inch of space, a little more or less is ok too..... as far as an esc mount , no stand needed, any angle is fine as long as its secure..