Project FighterSplat- 24.5" Stepped Mono

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  • FighterCat57
    "The" Fighter Cat
    • Apr 2010
    • 3480

    #16
    From my understanding it has to be weighted heavily on the side of the flood chamber. This will allow it to tilt just enough for the prop to get wet and help straighten itself in motion. I've yet to test successfully either.

    Looking forward to your results with the new motor. =)
    FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.

    Comment

    • questtek
      Senior Member
      • May 2009
      • 556

      #17
      Originally posted by FighterCat57
      From my understanding it has to be weighted heavily on the side of the flood chamber. This will allow it to tilt just enough for the prop to get wet and help straighten itself in motion. I've yet to test successfully either.

      Looking forward to your results with the new motor. =)
      I do have all the weight on that side, 2500 mAhr 3s battery as tight as it can be next to the flood chamber and virtually nothing on the other side. I may have to glue some lead weight on the inside seam of the flood chamber. Problem is that air I believe is trapped inside the chamber so vent holes may be needed also.

      Comment

      • Chuck E Cheese
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • May 2008
        • 1684

        #18
        yes for a flood chamber to work you will need vents in the chamber to let the air out. i always drill 1/2 inch holes (about 3-4) in the bow (bottom side since it is upside down) in the most forward position possable. i also make holes in the top deck to let water in from more than just the rear opening. a few oz of lead inside the chamber will only help it fill quicker making it right itself quicker. flood chambers are finiky and you need to play with them to get them to work well. most production chambers are not big enough. the one i make for the super-v doesnt care where the weight is due to the larger size
        see my fleet : http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=294

        Comment

        • FighterCat57
          "The" Fighter Cat
          • Apr 2010
          • 3480

          #19
          Originally posted by Chuck E Cheese
          yes for a flood chamber to work you will need vents in the chamber to let the air out. i always drill 1/2 inch holes (about 3-4) in the bow (bottom side since it is upside down) in the most forward position possable. i also make holes in the top deck to let water in from more than just the rear opening. a few oz of lead inside the chamber will only help it fill quicker making it right itself quicker. flood chambers are finiky and you need to play with them to get them to work well. most production chambers are not big enough. the one i make for the super-v doesnt care where the weight is due to the larger size
          That makes perfect sense. Time to drill some holes!
          FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.

          Comment

          • questtek
            Senior Member
            • May 2009
            • 556

            #20
            Ran the boat today with a 2860 inrunner rated at 4122 KV on 3S. Yesterdays run was on a 2200mAhr pac and the voltage drop was way too much under the heavy amp draw for the 25c pacs I was using. Switched to 5000 mAhr LiPos at 40C and the diffrence was incredible. I will post a video tomorrow when we run with all the guys on my lake. If I have a chance I will also Eagle Tree it including GPS. Battery placement was unique. Two cells wedged next to the self righting (NOT) chamber and one cell under the drive shaft midships.

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            • CornelP
              Senior Member
              • May 2009
              • 745

              #21
              Chuck is right. Even the best chamber will not work without a proper vent. One more way to do this is to run a piece of 6-10mm tube (I use a thin walled carbon) from the tip of the chamber to the opposite side of the boat. The other thing is not to rely only on the hole in the transom: a few more on the deck will make it turn faster.
              And if it still does not work, just add weights... I have about 120g on the chamber wall on my 30" mono and it works perfectly.

              Comment

              • questtek
                Senior Member
                • May 2009
                • 556

                #22
                Bem,
                I am going to post this in the video section but thought you and the people following this thread might like a Heads-Up first. It will give you an idea of what the boat can do, GPS 40 MPH and there is lots more available. Wrong prop and running way too wet with a bad down angle on the stinger we missed correcting before the run.

                Comment

                • keithbradley
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Jul 2010
                  • 3663

                  #23
                  Originally posted by questtek
                  Bem,
                  I am going to post this in the video section but thought you and the people following this thread might like a Heads-Up first. It will give you an idea of what the boat can do, GPS 40 MPH and there is lots more available. Wrong prop and running way too wet with a bad down angle on the stinger we missed correcting before the run.

                  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9YUd8...=youtube_gdata
                  Nice work
                  40mph looks pretty wicked on that little hull. With the flood chamber dialed in this thing could be a blast to run all day without worrying about retreiving it! I like it!
                  www.keithbradleyboats.com

                  Comment

                  • Brushless55
                    Creator
                    • Oct 2008
                    • 9479

                    #24
                    very cool looking hull!
                    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

                    Comment

                    • Brushless55
                      Creator
                      • Oct 2008
                      • 9479

                      #25
                      Originally posted by questtek
                      Ben,

                      The pics below show a carbon fiber turn fin on the NightHawk. It should give you an idea of placement. This boat was supposed to be self righting but I flipped it more than a dozen times and IT HAS NEVER SELF RIGHTED............Not even close to it!

                      I think it has potential so I built a new type of motor mount that attaches to a base plate with four stainless nuts. This permits motor changes in a minute or so and does not require any type of fancy allan wrench maneuvers. I will try the Turnigy 1600KV, 1500 watt motors you recommended on 6 s to see what it will do.

                      Nice enough boat but really does not compare in my opinion to the DF sniper. Again, just my opinion after running both of these boats for over a month now.
                      You like the DF23 better?
                      .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

                      Comment

                      • martin
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • Aug 2010
                        • 2869

                        #26
                        This hull is the same as an Hor mono also known as Ariane mono 1, As with most of these self righting hulls you have to add a fair amount of weight either stuck inside flood chamber or on top of the deck as well as battery over against flood chamber wall. They will then right in a few seconds. 4122kv on 3s is way to high, Either your esc or motor or both wont last to long at 45754rpm.

                        Comment

                        • sailr
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Nov 2007
                          • 6924

                          #27
                          You also have to cut out bigger holes in the deck to let it sink faster.
                          Mini Cat Racing USA
                          www.minicatracingusa.com

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                          • martin
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Aug 2010
                            • 2869

                            #28
                            I didnt mention extra holes cut because Chuck E Cheese had already pointed that out, So yes you def need to do this as well. Not just so it floods quicker but to let trapped air out of the chamber as well.

                            Comment

                            • questtek
                              Senior Member
                              • May 2009
                              • 556

                              #29
                              Originally posted by Brushless55
                              You like the DF23 better?
                              Yes, but the Nighthawk is starting to look pretty good. So far I get 45 MPH from the Sniper and 40 MPH from the Nighthawk. I need the pros like Mark F and Tony to go the extra few miles for me now on each one of them. Ordered new 45-90C batteries so should not have the voltage drops I experience on my old 25c cells.

                              Like most RTR's the Nighthawk took virtually a complete rebuild when you repower it. ALL the wood mounts ripped out almost immediately including the servo mount. If you notice in the pics I designed an easy to remove mount with 4 bolts so I can interchange with the Sniper.

                              Pics also include comparisons of the top and bottom of the hulls.
                              Attached Files

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                              • questtek
                                Senior Member
                                • May 2009
                                • 556

                                #30
                                Originally posted by martin
                                This hull is the same as an Hor mono also known as Ariane mono 1, As with most of these self righting hulls you have to add a fair amount of weight either stuck inside flood chamber or on top of the deck as well as battery over against flood chamber wall. They will then right in a few seconds. 4122kv on 3s is way to high, Either your esc or motor or both wont last to long at 45754rpm.


                                You are so right on the motor. Ironically I WANT to blow it up......or at least see just how far I can push it. You can see by the pictures I have a dual cooling system, jacket and front mount. The orange tape secures two temp sensors on the motor along with RPM and GPS into the EagleTree.

                                This is a cheap inrunner however my motivation in pushing it so hard is to test a special lubricant am using on the bearings. I attached a picture of the lubricant. You can read more about it at:


                                I met the guys that run the company a few years ago. I started using it on my boat that has twin 400 HP turbocharged Cat diesels and noted a significant improvement in a performance. I am using this same product on the bearings of the motor after each run. So far, so good but I will continue testing and pushing the RPM even higher. These are probably 30k cheap bearings so it is doing great so far!
                                Attached Files

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