M1 Supercat / KB45 10XL (Sport)

**Flying Scotsman** · 10-29-2007, 06:28 PM

Reddy, very interesting. You and I are on the same plain.

My motor will not be as far forward as yours. The other components seem to be identical. My choice for power is 5S or 6S Li-Po and time will tell as far as prop sellection is concerned, but I favour a 640 prior to testing

**Steven Vaccaro** · 10-29-2007, 08:37 PM

Nice job, I happen to like the sticker on that motor

**Flying Scotsman** · 10-29-2007, 09:54 PM

Originally posted by Flying Scotsman

Reddy, very interesting. You and I are on the same plain.

My motor will not be as far forward as yours. The other components seem to be identical. My choice for power is 5S or 6S Li-Po and time will tell as far as prop sellection is concerned, but I favour a 640 prior to testing

Please note that Reddy has been more than helpfull in my set up!!
His knowledge on KB45 motors is fantastic

Douggie

**kal1b3r** · 10-29-2007, 10:24 PM

that boat looks sick, and for some reason, i really like the fact that there is a lot of room on the inside on the boat.

**Mich. Maniac** · 10-29-2007, 11:05 PM

Originally posted by Steven Vaccaro

Nice job, I happen to like the sticker on that motor

I do agree. How much do you have to spend to get some?

**ReddyWatts** · 10-29-2007, 11:09 PM

Originally posted by Flying Scotsman

My motor will not be as far forward as yours. The other components seem to be identical. My choice for power is 5S or 6S Li-Po and time will tell as far as prop sellection is concerned, but I favour a 640 prior to testing

I tried a X642, X640, X637, Y537/3, X442, X440, X437/3. The Y537/3 rocks on this motor using 24 nihm cells. I am thrilled with the way it turned out. My lake is getting to small.

IMO, if a motor is not loaded properly for the controllers dynamic timing range, (to much or to little load) it will run hot. With the Y537/3 prop, it is staying under 110F, using a OEMRC controller. Therefore it is loaded within the range the controller was designed.

Is this the way you guys understand it?

**10gauge** · 10-30-2007, 10:56 PM

Great job ReddyWatts on your M-1! I was just curious...
I have an M-1 and a 21EGSRA HW still in its packaging.
How is the 21EGSRA HW on the turns?
How did you reinforce the transom mount area?
How would a KB45-8XL (1700kv) run on 6S?

Congratulations on your M-1... Looks awesome!

**ReddyWatts** · 10-30-2007, 11:18 PM

I am still learning how to turn this hull. It handles different than my Mean Machine, but so far I have not noticed any boat handling issues. It is just my driving since I got it dialed in. It rides on the back pads and flies down the straights and I let off before the turn and then power on through the turn. It really looks cool in the straights.

I used a dremmel and carefully smoothed it a little, then cut to fit a T shaped 1/8 plywood and glued it with epoxy to the transom. It is solid.

Ask SJFE about the 1700kv motor. I think he has run that one.

**SJFE** · 10-30-2007, 11:38 PM

The 8XL ran a little hot in the Jolly around 20 volts. Even with a small k40 prop. I was drawing around 100amps constant with 160 amp spikes. Temps where around 140 on the packs 135 on the esc and almost 130 on the motor. All this on a 34 inch cat @ 8.5 pounds.

**sdartt** · 03-04-2008, 04:35 PM

Thanks for the M1 Setup

I just ordered my first FE hull, it's a M-1 like yours with the exception it is red, I am a lousey painter. You parts list looks great, OK if I copy you?
Thanks again for all the work you did with part numbers, web address's and your time.

**Fluid** · 03-04-2008, 07:19 PM

....It rides on the back pads and flies down the straights and I let off before the turn and then power on through the turn. It really looks cool in the straights....

One thing you can try is to angle the rudder pivot back. Place the hull on a flat table at its ride attitude and look at the rudder pivot from the side. If you angle the pivot with the lower end further away from the transom than the top end, this will cause the bow to drop when you turn. This can help to plant a cat in the corners without having to chop the throttle. However on some hulls you just have to use the throttle....

.

**ReddyWatts** · 03-09-2008, 05:54 PM

Thanks Fluid for the cat cornering setup tip.

I have changed to a different HV sport controller. This one has two heat sinks, one on each side. I have added two 12 volt fans wired in SERIES for the 28.8 volt setup. Cut some cooling exhaust slots in the controller heat shrink. Used metal screws to hold the fans on the sinks. Wired it directly to the controller battery leads. It only has a black and red lead coming from the motor. I like the idea that it continues to cool until you pull the battery leads when you get it back on the bench. They only draw 10 milliamps each and run very quite. This was a very easy mod.

Evercool 50x50x10mm 3 Pin Tachometer Ball Bearing CPU Fan-EC5010M12CA

http://www.coolerguys.com/840556021834.html

Buy Evercool 50x50x10mm 3 Pin Tachometer Ball Bearing CPU Fan-EC5010M12CA from Coolerguys online store at best price. DC Fan Size: 50x50x10mm, Bearing Type: Tachometer Ball Bearing

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Attached Files

bphobbies controller 001.jpg (108.8 KB, 87 views)

**10gauge** · 03-10-2008, 11:34 PM

ReddyWatts, what was wrong with the previous ESC? Were you having heat issues? I have a OEMRC 100A HV ESC too, and was curious why the switch?...

Thanks

**ReddyWatts** · 03-11-2008, 12:38 AM

One of the Fets died in the OEMRC for no reason, so thought I would try something different. Everything was running cool with good margins.

M1 Supercat / KB45 10XL (Sport)

M1 Supercat / KB45 10XL (Sport)

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