Osprey 41-inch mono

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  • BakedMopar
    No Mo Slipah
    • Sep 2009
    • 1679

    #16
    following this one!
    If all of your wishes are granted, many of your dreams will be destroyed!

    Comment

    • Jesse J
      scale FE racer
      • Aug 2008
      • 7116

      #17
      ready for vids! looks great man.
      "Look good doin' it"
      See the fleet

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      • forescott
        Hopelessly Addicted to RC
        • Nov 2009
        • 2686

        #18
        Got the motor mount and stuffing tube epoxied in place. Mounted the T-180 and began routing the water lines. Got the stinger mounted and was able to utilize 2-of the original stinger holes. The others will be filled with epoxy. Cut the flex cable and mounted the traxxas steering servo. I had to make a small notch with the dremmel in the servo mount because the steering servo has a small rounded bump out that wont let it lay flat against the mount. Now I'm figuring out lipo placement and will be making a couple of battery trays to hold everything in place.
        Attached Files

        Comment

        • Chuck E Cheese
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • May 2008
          • 1684

          #19
          nice, cant wait to see that motor go...
          see my fleet : http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=294

          Comment

          • Jesse J
            scale FE racer
            • Aug 2008
            • 7116

            #20
            Very nice looking. What a great hull, what does the bottom look like? is that a toysport?
            "Look good doin' it"
            See the fleet

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            • forescott
              Hopelessly Addicted to RC
              • Nov 2009
              • 2686

              #21
              Nope, its the HK osprey. 24 degree v-hull with no steps. Similar to the df-40

              Comment

              • forescott
                Hopelessly Addicted to RC
                • Nov 2009
                • 2686

                #22
                Got a little more work done on the osprey today. Made a battery tray for the rear out of one of the stock battery supports and some 3/4 inch aluminum angle. Used velcro straps and a zip tie to hold the 2 rear packs in place. For now I laid some velcro above the stringers and am using velcro straps on the forward batteries until I get the c.o.g. dialed. Then I might fab a couple of trays to hold the forward batteries more securely. Also used the receicer tray I cut out of my EKOS a while back and epoxied it above the steering servo. Will end up putting a balloon over it w/a zip tie. Just waiting for an rx pack and need to route the water lines. It's almost there!!
                Attached Files

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                • forescott
                  Hopelessly Addicted to RC
                  • Nov 2009
                  • 2686

                  #23
                  Lubed up the flex with my usual grim racer blue lube and slid it into the 7/32 brass tube. It feels like a lot of resistance and is really sticky to turn by hand. I'm kinda uneasy about running it this way. I need some advice on a high heat lube that is relatively thin and will allow the flex to spin more freely than what I'm using!! HELP!! I dont want to burn up my electronics. Looking into running wire drive if I can find the right parts.

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                  • carlcisneros
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • Jan 2010
                    • 1218

                    #24
                    I can not remember the size of the brass tubing that I use in my 20 Speedmaster mono, but it
                    is the size that plugs straight into the back of the stinger strut.

                    I run a nitro motor (CMB 21Evo Valvola) in it with an ABC 1614/3 chopper prop. I use the 3/16"
                    flex with welded on stub shaft.

                    If memory serves, your 7/32 tubing is too small. will have to measure mine Saturday and will let you know for sure.

                    Carl

                    Comment

                    • Chuck E Cheese
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • May 2008
                      • 1684

                      #25
                      thick grease is thick grease, once hot it melts and becomes thin grease. 7/32 is the right size for 3/16 cable (7/32 = 3.5/16) as long as your bends dont kink the cable you are good to go. does it spin free with no lube??? i didnt think so....
                      see my fleet : http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=294

                      Comment

                      • jcald2000
                        Senior Member
                        • May 2008
                        • 774

                        #26
                        Lightly sand the flex cable with 400 then 600 grit sand paper to take off the wire fuss in a drill.
                        Use 75-140 SYNTHIC Extreme Pressure rear diff. lube. I use Valoline from the auto parts store, just be sure it says Extreme Pressure on it. Lube after every run or run an oiler set up.


                        Thanks Jay Turner!!!

                        Comment

                        • forescott
                          Hopelessly Addicted to RC
                          • Nov 2009
                          • 2686

                          #27
                          Here is a pic of the brass tube in the hull (the one on the right). The flex spins effortlessly in the tube without lube. I did put the flex in a drill and run it through sandpaper to smooth it out a little. I used to run lithium grease with my flex, but it burns up/washes out pretty quick and doesn't do much for keeping out water. I think I'm gonna have to experiment with a few different kinds of lube until I find something that gives me a good balance between heat reduction and low friction. But the grim speed grease isn't gonna work unless I put it on, wipe it clean and add some type of oil over top.
                          Attached Files

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                          • carlcisneros
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Jan 2010
                            • 1218

                            #28
                            I measured the stuffing box on my 20 mono this morning.
                            it is .250inches the same dia. as the tube inside my stinger strut.

                            You should have also received as bushing when you purchased the stinger.
                            That size is 7/32 I.D. and is used for bushing inside the stinger.

                            you need the space inside the stuffing box for the lube to flow when it gets hot and the shaft
                            can float efortlessly inside. Otherwise it will heat up very quickly and can actually burn if it becomes too hot. I know, it happened to me a few times before I went to the larger tubing.

                            as far as a good grease, I have always use the blue stuff with teflon in it. Works great and lasts a long time to boot.

                            I know this above info is what I use on my nitro boats but am getting ready to build my first FE Rigger.

                            Thanks much

                            Carl

                            Comment

                            • forescott
                              Hopelessly Addicted to RC
                              • Nov 2009
                              • 2686

                              #29
                              My stinger is the same. I slid a piece of 1/4 inch tube over the 7/32 and slipped it into the stinger so it fits well. 1/4 inch all the way just seemed too sloppy, and I didn't want water coming up the tube. Seems as if the propshaft can spin inside the 7/32 bushing of the stinger, then the flex should be able to do the same inside the stuffing tube.

                              Comment

                              • martin
                                Fast Electric Addict!
                                • Aug 2010
                                • 2887

                                #30
                                An alternative which some use is chain saw cutting bar oil. This is an oil but very sticky so that it sticks to the cutting chain and simply dosnt get throne off when the chain rotates, Its also designed to with stand high temps. And also cheap and easy to get. Their are different types available, vegtable based which is biodegradable,mineral and synthetic. The last one is said to be the best choice and avoid vegatable based. Martin.

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