Q: Carbon fiber cooling jacket

[catboat]

Hi all -

I'm hoping you guys could help me regarding make a carbon fiber cooling jacket. I was reading this old thread....

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...=kb45+bearings

My questions are:
1) What thickness carbon fiber should I be using?
2) How do you get crisp edges if you use carbon fiber cloth (as opposed to cf tape)?
3) Do you have to brush the entire cooling jacket with epoxy or just the edges?

This project is for a feigao 9xl motor.

Thanks so much for all your help.

Sak...

[HYDROJERRY]

Hay Sak,,i think i replied somewhere else on this maybe over on RCG forum heres pics of one i bault and its on my 9xl hope this helps ya,,

[catboat]

HydroJerry -

Thats exactly what I'm trying to do. I'll look over @ RCG to see if I can find your posts.

If you happen to recall cf thickness that you used or any other info let me know.

Thanks so much for your help.

Sak...

[bonewar]

Catboat,

Have a look here mate.

http://www.fastelectrics.com/blmotors1.asp#Motor_Kuhlers

And there very cheap.


Bonewar

[HYDROJERRY]

Sorry iwas wrong the post was on the fast electrics Q/A section,,,yeah thats the place that Bonewar suggested,,just seams like we could make them too...or try.

[Jeff Wohlt]

rc universe or one of those is where you saw it. A guy took some CF cloth and wrapped it around a D cell battery I think ...after he wrapped it with duck tape or something that would not stick to epoxy then did a few wraps and it was done. Looked pretty good and worked fine.

I would get the CF tape like I found...this way the edges are done and are less likey to split. You can do it with FG tape as well. He then drilled his ports and had a o-ring in it then just used shoe goo or rtv to do a seal around it to make sure...which I like to do anyway for extra protection.

Should be easy to make...might be what I do for the leopard motor I have. You can then get the full motor cooled. OSEs are the longest out there to cover 95%+ of the motor. BUT you can also buy CF tube but it is higher but nice. Cutting may not be fun.

Heck you can use PVC pipe if you want. Aluminum is better for coolong but not sure it really matters that much if you have decent water flow. There are racers that as soon as they hit the pits they have a small pump in the cooler water that is cold and circulate water thru to get the motor cooler faster. As the motor sits it continues to heat up from the arm.

[CornelP]

Almost the same technique here, but I use aluminum foil as a non stick base (with PVA when I have it...). Just give it a couple of turns and when it's dry it will just slide out from the mold.
Another difference is that I go a different way in strengthening the inlet/outlet, see the pics.

[catboat]

Catboat,

Have a look here mate.

http://www.fastelectrics.com/blmotors1.asp#Motor_Kuhlers

And there very cheap.


Bonewar

Bonewar -

Thanks for the link...I wish I was in AU. It's a no brainer @ that price. If I could find it somewhere within the states (US) at that price, it doesn't make sense to make it.

So for now...I'm going down the path of making one....

Thanks again for your input.
Sak...

[catboat]

Almost the same technique here, but I use aluminum foil as a non stick base (with PVA when I have it...). Just give it a couple of turns and when it's dry it will just slide out from the mold.
Another difference is that I go a different way in strengthening the inlet/outlet, see the pics.

CornelP -

Thats by far, the best homemade design I've seen yet. I was considering using the water inlets that OSE has but they aren't ideal for me given the hull space I've got. Your inlet/outlet setup is superior in my opinion.

I've got a few questions for you if you don't mind...Can you share some details...

1) where do get your CF
2) what thickness
3) are you using cloth or tape
4) Can you provide detailed instructions from start to finish.

Sorry for all my questions, but this will be my first time doing this and I'd rather not make 20 throw away CF water jackets before getting it right.

Any feedback is really appreciated.

Thanks again.
Sak...

[CornelP]

CornelP -

1) where do get your CF
Hobby King or a local supplier, this one in the pics, for the black 580 was the local guy. CFK also from HK.
2) what thickness
Carbon was 160g/sqm, CFK 80g/sqm
3) are you using cloth or tape
Only cloth
4) Can you provide detailed instructions from start to finish.

Sak...

No problems with the questions, fire away...

Ok, steps:

1. Wrap the template (with the proper diameter) with kitchen aluminum foil (2 layers minimum). It has to be wrinkle free, if possible
2. Coat with PVA (not essential)
3. Apply one brushed layer of epoxy
4. Apply 40 or 80g/sqm Glass fiber (for a smooth interior). I wrapped it twice around the cylinder.
5. Apply CF or CFK, again preferably 2 layers (1 piece, wrapped twice)
6. For a smooth finish apply on more fiberglass coat, 40g/sqm (the CF one in the pics has it, the CFK doesn't)
7. After drying, wet sand a bit, apply a thin coat of resin (just for the looks). Always do a piece longer than you need and let it dry vertical.
8. Remove from template, wet sand the inside smooth, cut to size.
9. Drill the 4mm holes for the piping (or whatever diameter you are using). I do one pipe perpendicular under the motor, one longitudinal on top. This way you are sure to cool the whole motor and lose much of the air inside.
10. Fix the piping with some CA glue.
11. Cut the pieces for the strengthening. Two triangles and one square with a 4mm hole, slightly larger than needed. Fix with CA so there are no leaks.
12. Pour epoxy around the piping.
13. When completely dry, wet sand smooth.
14. Just for the looks, apply one more thin coat of epoxy.
15. DONE

PS: the diameter of the template should be a bit smaller than the motor + o ring used, so it will be tight, but not too tight... I had a 0.5mm difference and it was ok. Another tip: if you find a can or tube that is close enough, apply tape or, better even, a large heat shrink tube to get the diameter right...

[catboat]

No problems with the questions, fire away...

Ok, steps:

1. Wrap the template (with the proper diameter) with kitchen aluminum foil (2 layers minimum). It has to be wrinkle free, if possible
2. Coat with PVA (not essential)
3. Apply one brushed layer of epoxy
4. Apply 40 or 80g/sqm Glass fiber (for a smooth interior). I wrapped it twice around the cylinder.
5. Apply CF or CFK, again preferably 2 layers (1 piece, wrapped twice)
6. For a smooth finish apply on more fiberglass coat, 40g/sqm (the CF one in the pics has it, the CFK doesn't)
7. After drying, wet sand a bit, apply a thin coat of resin (just for the looks). Always do a piece longer than you need and let it dry vertical.
8. Remove from template, wet sand the inside smooth, cut to size.
9. Drill the 4mm holes for the piping (or whatever diameter you are using). I do one pipe perpendicular under the motor, one longitudinal on top. This way you are sure to cool the whole motor and lose much of the air inside.
10. Fix the piping with some CA glue.
11. Cut the pieces for the strengthening. Two triangles and one square with a 4mm hole, slightly larger than needed. Fix with CA so there are no leaks.
12. Pour epoxy around the piping.
13. When completely dry, wet sand smooth.
14. Just for the looks, apply one more thin coat of epoxy.
15. DONE

PS: the diameter of the template should be a bit smaller than the motor + o ring used, so it will be tight, but not too tight... I had a 0.5mm difference and it was ok. Another tip: if you find a can or tube that is close enough, apply tape or, better even, a large heat shrink tube to get the diameter right...

Hi CornelP -

First..Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!! Your instructions are perfect. I've got some more questions regarding the materials. Here goes...

1) The black 580... is that 580 g/sqm?
2) Re: step 4 - regarding Glass fiber - are you referring to white/clear common fiberglass?
3) What is CFK? In your pics, other than the color, the materials seem the same to me.
4) So the initial epoxy brushing is enough to penetrate 4 layers of CF?
5) Do you reccomend...after laying the 4 layers of CF , to airtight seal it my foodsaver kitchen appliance...I thinking this would compress the layers real tight.
6) When your done, is the CF rock hard or does it flex a bit if you squeeze it?

Thanks for all your answers and feedback.

Sak...

[CornelP]

1) I was referring to picture No5, with a black Feigao 580L motor.
2) Yes, white.
3) CFK: carbon fiber kevlar.The yellow fibers are kevlar, carbon is all black
4) just the base. When I say 'apply a layer of cloth', it means applied with the help of a brush and some epoxy in between. Just do not overdo it...
5) If you have one, yes... I don't :D
6) It does flex, but just a bit. If you want rock hard, just add more layers of glass to the base or more carbon

You're welcome.

[catboat]

CornelP -

You guys are great!!! Thanks for helping me so much. 1 Last question. I'm going to try to get some CF. In the meantime, I have some fine & course fiberglass in my shop right now. Since I'm anxious to start this project sooner.....

Will it work by using only fiberglass (w/o any carbon fiber)?

I realize that fiberglass might be a bit heavier, but I'm just wondering if fiberglass has similiar heat dispensation compared to carbon fiber.h

Thanks so much.

Sak....

[CornelP]

It will work as well. You're not looking for any heat dissipation, so the material does not count, the jacket just has to be watertight. Some guys just make it out of PVC piping of the right size.
If you use fine fiberglass (in 5-6 layers) and a good epoxy, you might get a semitransparent jacket, quite good to see if you actually have water flow.