These guys are great to deal with and for long control rods that work http://www.centralhobbies.com/contro...e/pushrod.html
Insane FE30 build
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Insaniac, the seal is a simple brass tube through the transom, with fuel tubing over it. Another small piece of fuel tubing pinches the main tube down onto the rod. Works well (see pics of my mono below). I can't recall who I stole the idea from, might have been Jay Turner.
Using a boot on the insde as Mark does is another good, clean method. I may still go for that method as I have a few bellow seals lying about.
Steve, no I'm running the Whip this weekend. Hope to have the Insane ready for the following race meet
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Not much progress today, had to get some other boats ready for racing tomorrow. I think I'll try putting the pushrod seal inside the hull. I have a heap of bellow type seals that are easy to mount. Just drill a hole through the transom, glue in the right size tube and slip the seal over the tube. A zip tie helps secure the seal in place.
I pressed the bushes into the strut, and set the bottom of the strut 7/8" below the hull. This should be a good starting point. Made the hole for the stuffing tube and bent the tubing. I'm using 1/4" stuffing tube with teflon and a 0.150 cable. The tube slides snugly into the front of the strut. Same set up works very well in my Whip. I didn't epoxy it all in yet, as I had to use this motor in another boat for racing tomorrow. Will glue it all in tomorrow arvo.Comment
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Scott, I have one of these boats on order and it should arrive this week. I have never set up a hydro before, just mono's. How do you determine where to drill the hole for the stuffing tube in the hull? How far is your hole from the point of the motor mount? Thanks.Not much progress today, had to get some other boats ready for racing tomorrow. I think I'll try putting the pushrod seal inside the hull. I have a heap of bellow type seals that are easy to mount. Just drill a hole through the transom, glue in the right size tube and slip the seal over the tube. A zip tie helps secure the seal in place.
I pressed the bushes into the strut, and set the bottom of the strut 7/8" below the hull. This should be a good starting point. Made the hole for the stuffing tube and bent the tubing. I'm using 1/4" stuffing tube with teflon and a 0.150 cable. The tube slides snugly into the front of the strut. Same set up works very well in my Whip. I didn't epoxy it all in yet, as I had to use this motor in another boat for racing tomorrow. Will glue it all in tomorrow arvo.Comment
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This will vary depending on the mount you use and the angle it runs. The way I do it is to "draw the boat on a piece of paper". Just lined for the bottom and the transom will do. Put the motor in the mount and lay the mount on the line representing the hull bottom. Put the cable in the flex hex and see where it goes through the hull bottom line. Measure the distance from there to the transom and now you know where to put the slot for the stuffing tube....How do you determine where to drill the hole for the stuffing tube in the hull? How far is your hole from the point of the motor mount?....
It is okay if the slot is a bit long or wide, when you glue it in place have the motor mount already glued in the hull and the motor/flex hex installed. With the cable in place slide the stuffing tube into the slot, put tape on the bottom to seal it and pour on the glue. Getting everything lined up perfectly is one of the most critical parts of any build.
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\This will vary depending on the mount you use and the angle it runs. The way I do it is to "draw the boat on a piece of paper". Just lined for the bottom and the transom will do. Put the motor in the mount and lay the mount on the line representing the hull bottom. Put the cable in the flex hex and see where it goes through the hull bottom line. Measure the distance from there to the transom and now you know where to put the slot for the stuffing tube.
It is okay if the slot is a bit long or wide, when you glue it in place have the motor mount already glued in the hull and the motor/flex hex installed. With the cable in place slide the stuffing tube into the slot, put tape on the bottom to seal it and pour on the glue. Getting everything lined up perfectly is one of the most critical parts of any build.
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Thanks! That makes sense to me. It seems like if you get a bit of a "tilt" to the motor you can save yourself a bend in the tubing, but I suppose you end up with a bigger "hole" in the hull because of the angle.Comment
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Insaniac, the cg is between 2 and 3". Mine is around 2 1/2"last time I ran mine and I still have'nt blown mine over yet. Having the battery in the nose is the best place for it. This will help keep it from moving around in an accident.
Electric, the slot in the bottom of my boat is just over 2" long. It always starts out though around 1". Then you have to keep adjusting it untill everything lines up perfect. Like Jay said its OK if its a little wide or long.
MarkComment
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For what it's worth... When I'm installing a stuffing tube... I always have the motor and hardware fully mounted. I then fit the stuffing tube in place (get the bend right, etc.), and I glue it in place WITH everything else installed and the flex in place. I also usually put tape over the bottom of the slot, and then use epoxy and layer glass cloth over the inside. Holds up very well and when you peel off the outside tape, you have a nice, clean, smooth surface.Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
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I do exactly like Darin does. For the exit hole I put a piece of flex maybe 5 or 6" long in the collet and then I see were it wants to poke through the bottom of the boat. This just gives you the statring point and then you adjust from there.
MarkComment
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Wow 2 inches? I was thinking some hole about 1/2" long max. I guess that proves I have not set up a hydro before. Could someone show me a picture of the underside of the hull so I can see what it should look like when it is complete. That would probably help me get a grasp on what I should be shooting for when I drill out the the area for the shaft. Thanks for all the additonal suggestions.Comment
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Here's mineWow 2 inches? I was thinking some hole about 1/2" long max. I guess that proves I have not set up a hydro before. Could someone show me a picture of the underside of the hull so I can see what it should look like when it is complete. That would probably help me get a grasp on what I should be shooting for when I drill out the the area for the shaft. Thanks for all the additonal suggestions.
Attached Files2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
'11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /MonoComment
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Thanks. It always is a measure twice cut once moment when you drill holes in a perfectly good hull. I am hoping to have a box with a red insane hydro in it on my doorstep sometime this week. With any luck it will come soon enough for me to put it together for this weekend.Comment

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