ETTI 150 Opto ESC cap bank install help?

[OshkoshMono]

Hello, I'm new here. I have a widowmaker 22, but am now building an aeromarine titan 33/40 with all OSE supplied parts. I got the ETTI 150 Opto ESC w/ capacitor bank, but I am not sure how to solder it together and how best to waterproof the ESC and bank. I tried searching but found nothing. ??? So far i just have the hull mostly painted. looking really cool so far (IMO). (Key Lime Pearl w/ pearl and green flake under Nason clear urethane) Thanks, -Nick

[Jesse J]

1. welcome to forum
2. ESC is very water resistant (as close to waterproof as you can get)
3. please post pics (we are photo junkies and like to see your builds)
4. ESC capboard is very easy - it just comes off the battery leads + to red and - to black (click here and see enlarged pic 3)- this is probably waterproofed too? somebody else will comment on this hopefully.

[OshkoshMono]

Thanks! I'll post some pics soon. So the capbank goes between the esc and batteries? Ok, cool. Does ETTI have a website that I just can't seem to find?
I shouldn't need a BEC just running a traxxas slash servo right? (I think it's a slash servo anyway, bluewaterproof from OSE) I hope I'm not sticking too many topics into one thread, but i also wanted opinions on stuff tube length. I was planning on running mine long (like 8-10" so the motor is farther forward and the batteries velcro along side the stuff tube. That water here is always 2-6" chop so i want this as low CG and stable as possible. My widowmaker 22 is ALWAYS upside down. I was also thinking a longer stuff tube would have a longer service life with wear being spread out?? No??

[Jesse J]

Don't worry about too many topics, this is YOUR thread! I have not looked for ETTI site. You found the link to the picture, right? VERRRRRRY easy. Don't fret.

Your ESC WILL need a BEC or rx battery pack (Opto means no internal BEC - better in my book).

The risk of putting your motor in front of the batts is that you have a forward limit to your battery placement (running in chop you want that option). I like motor as close to transom as possible. This puts batts in front - note I like to maintain COG flexibility, so I put all the goods inside before gluing anything. I make sure my most forward placement of batteries will achieve 33% COG yet enough room to slide em back to get 25%. These are the two extremes and having the space to adjust batts allows you to have correct attitude in rough AND calm waters. There is nothing worse that a boat that won't air out if conditions are flat, or one that won't tighten up if its rough.

Chop rules - did you see my fountain 42 vid?

[OshkoshMono]

Ok cool. Thanks again. I like your FLEET! Nice looking boats! Didn't see the fountain vid though.
So a shorter stuffing tube has no real down side? I was just thinking it would run hotter and wear out sooner. Battery placement option is important though as you say. I kinda laid out the parts in the hull and was thinking I could still move the batteries forward but they would partly (or fully) be along side the motor mount, forcing them to be closer to the sides. Would that make the boat less stable? Thanks for the help. First build and I really don't wana mess it up. I blew the lid off my initial intended build budget...Oooops.

[Jesse J]

Here is the fountain vid.

shorter would be better for flex shaft, less drag (total resistance = friction X length). Just use lots of lube. I have some hydros that use wire drive and they don't care as much about length.

I don't know if you would be able to notice the batteries being a little bit outboard (by the motor), maybe a veteran racer would, but I am not that yet.

[OshkoshMono]

Nice VID. Towards the end of the video where the boat kinda barrel rolled onto it's roof, would longer turn fins help prevent that? My widow maker 22 does that a LOT. Probably unavoidable I suppose. Oh and for the ESC and cap board, do you think I should shrink wrap it, or just leave it. Do the fresh solders from the cap bank need to be coated at all? Does it matter how long the wires are between the bank and ESC? Sorry so many questions...

[tth]

Here is your Etti site as requested. It is homebased out of Hong Kong.

http://www.etti.com.hk/index.php?language=en

[OshkoshMono]

Thanks, they have a great pic on the Etti site of the cap bank soldered in to the esc. Looks like you just strip back some of the + and - leads and solder without actually cutting the leads. http://www.etti.com.hk/popup_image.php?pID=186
Doesn't look too hard. You guys think that's the best way to solder it?

[tth]

Definately! No need to cut at all. Just cut a section of insulation out and solder the cap board to the leads. Make sure to look at the board first I believe the solder points are staggered a bit. Even tho it is water resistant I still put heavy shrink wrap on my ESC's and Cap Banks!!!

[OshkoshMono]

Cool. Sounds easy enough. Do you seal the ends of the shrinkwrap? Or would that cause the ESC to overheat? The way I drive it'll be upside down a lot. Have a hard time not pinning it all the time.... Oh, as for adding some support rails along the bottom of the hull and motor mount, roughly 1.5" by 10-12" or so. I have a 12x16" sheet of 1/8" black lexan that I could cut the rails out of and epoxy in the hull. Think that would add too much weight? Maybe I could drill 1/2" holes along the length of them to shave weight? Or, bad idea?

[OshkoshMono]

Actually, for the hull supports, maybe 1.5 by 10-12" is a bit too big. Maybe more like 3/4" by 8" with 3/8" holes drilled along them to cut weight?