"Soaring Stuff" 1/6 P-Limited Crackerbox Build.

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  • Hydromaniac
    Senior Member
    • Oct 2007
    • 816

    #31
    Time to start gluing

    Now that I have made a couple of changes and everthing fits well, it's time to start gluing. Gluing 1 side at a time the, first thing is to get a good line up of the deck formers and the transome, also line up the same deck former at the notch of bulhead #2. Tack glue the deck former to the transome and bulkhead #2. Reapt the same process to the opposite side. Allow to dry, When dry, using a straight edge. check and line up bulkheads 3,4,and 5 with the transome, when you get them lined up tack glue bulkheads 3,4 &5 to the deck formers. Now tack the forward keel spine in place, once dry I added the rear keel spine support at this point and glued it in place.
    Attached Files
    www.rockymountainthunderboats.org

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    • Hydromaniac
      Senior Member
      • Oct 2007
      • 816

      #32
      Battons and chines,

      Its time to install the battons and chines, 1st check each notch in the bulkheads and transome for a good fit of the spruce strips used for the battons. Check the fit of each notch I used an x-acto knife to open them a bit to get a good fit but keeping them snug in the slot. You can also sand the notches to get a good fit. Glue and clamp each batton in to the bulkhead at each notch, I left the strips long and cut the excess once the batton had dried in place. Add all four battons at this time. Next I added the chines fitting them in the same fashion as the battons a good fit means less sanding, I Began at the nose and worked toward the rear or transome leaving the excess and trimming it once dry.
      Attached Files
      www.rockymountainthunderboats.org

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      • Hydromaniac
        Senior Member
        • Oct 2007
        • 816

        #33
        Levelling the bottom

        Next I used a long sanding bock with 80 grit sandpaper and sanded the battons and chines to get everything flat and flush, using a straight edge to continue to check the progress until there were no voids or high spots. Take your time making sure everything is nice and even.
        Attached Files
        Last edited by Hydromaniac; 03-16-2010, 07:20 PM.
        www.rockymountainthunderboats.org

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        • Hydromaniac
          Senior Member
          • Oct 2007
          • 816

          #34
          Bottom Skins

          Once all of the battons, chines and bulkhead have been sanded flush is time to add the botton skins. Mark the center of the keel from nose to transome drawnig a line along the keel center. Next test fit one of the bottom skins, sand or trim only the side that will be glued along the keel center to get a good fit. Now apply 30 minute epoxy to the skin inside and place along the keel line, tape, clamp and weight the skin so it is flat against all of the battons, bulkheads and chine. allow to dry. When dry remove the clamps, ect and repeat the same process on the remaining side of the hull bottom. Now leave to dry over night.
          Attached Files
          www.rockymountainthunderboats.org

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          • Hydromaniac
            Senior Member
            • Oct 2007
            • 816

            #35
            Progress

            Once the bottom skins have dried, the excess overhang needs to be removed so the side skins may be added. I started removing the excess with a small hand razor plane until there was just a bit of excess left then finished removing it with a sanding block, sanding it until it was flush with the chines and transome sanding the skins flush around the bottom of the entire hull.
            Attached Files
            www.rockymountainthunderboats.org

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            • Hydromaniac
              Senior Member
              • Oct 2007
              • 816

              #36
              Shears installed.

              Its time to add the shears, First check the notches at the outter bulkhead tops, using the 1/8 X 1/8 spruce shears supplied in the kit as a guide, You may need to trim or sand the notch to get a good fit , be sure to not make the notch to large, now sand one end of the shear to an angle that will go at the nose of the hull. Starting at the nose set the angle you have sanded against the nose line up the shear with the nose and the notch in bulkhead 2 at the same time, apply some medium CA at the nose and shear, a quick shot of CA kicker will hold it in place, now gently bend the shear until it meets the notch in bulkhead 2, CA and use kicker to lock it there, work the shear in to the notchess on the remaing bulkheads working toward the transome, glue and kick in place at each notch, allow to dry. When dry trim excess shear stock at the transome. Repeat the same process on the opposite side of the hull. To make bending the shear easier you can first soak the shears in alcohol for about 20 minutes before bending. Here are the shears in place.
              Attached Files
              www.rockymountainthunderboats.org

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              • Hydromaniac
                Senior Member
                • Oct 2007
                • 816

                #37
                Side Skins

                Once the shears have dried sand both sides of the hull with a flat sanding block, and 80 grit sandpaper. Sand the shears, chines and bulkheads. Sand only the outsides where the side skins will be applied making sure there are no high spots or bumps, make sure all joint areas are smooth. Once your are happy with the fit, clamp one of the side skins in place looking for the best fit placement. Use a couple of clamps to hold it in place, With medium CA and kicker tack glue the skin in place starting at the center and working from the middle out to the nose and transome , hold the skin in place and tack along bulkheads, chine and shear areas as you go, get a good flush fit. Clamping and working slowly to the ends. Once in place repeat on the opposite side skin. After both skins have been tack glued in place apply a bead of medium CA at all joints and seams and allow to dry.
                Attached Files
                www.rockymountainthunderboats.org

                Comment

                • Hydromaniac
                  Senior Member
                  • Oct 2007
                  • 816

                  #38
                  Sanding

                  After the side skins glue has dried, I removed the excess overhang with my small hand plane then block sanded with 80 grit sandpaper until all of the joint areas were flush and smooth at the bottom, transome and shear seams. Now that the basic hull is very and strong I removed the building jig anchor tabs with a razor saw. I then used a sanding block and shaped the bulkheads and deck formers, this creates the contour transision from the deck to the shears and sides. A nice smooth job helps to keep the deck smooth and free from low spots.
                  Attached Files
                  www.rockymountainthunderboats.org

                  Comment

                  • Hydromaniac
                    Senior Member
                    • Oct 2007
                    • 816

                    #39
                    Little more progress!

                    The basic hull is making quite a bit of progress, Now we'll move on to the deck and hatch, At this point I am only going to add 1 of the 3 deck supports, Using a piece of the left over batton 1/8 x 1/4 stock I installed the deck support that runs from the nose brace back to bulkhead 3. After checking the fit and trimming the notches in the bulkheads I clamped and glued the deck support in place. The reason I only installed the center deck support is that now is a good time to waterproof everthing from bulkhead 3 forward to the nose. Leaving the remaining deck support off now allows more room for access to get a good waterproofing job done. I applied a good coat of 30 minute epoxy thinned 30% with alcohol to the entire area between bulkhead 3 and the nose.
                    Attached Files
                    www.rockymountainthunderboats.org

                    Comment

                    • ace028
                      Senior Member
                      • Aug 2007
                      • 952

                      #40
                      Looking great! Can't wait for more progress!!!
                      Twin power =

                      Comment

                      • Hydromaniac
                        Senior Member
                        • Oct 2007
                        • 816

                        #41
                        Originally posted by ace028
                        Looking great! Can't wait for more progress!!!
                        Thank You we are making a lot of progress.
                        www.rockymountainthunderboats.org

                        Comment

                        • Hydromaniac
                          Senior Member
                          • Oct 2007
                          • 816

                          #42
                          Moving forward.

                          Now that the nose area has been sealed up I added the remaining 2 deck supports. Once I had a good fit I glued them in place, sanded them to the bulk head shape and waterproofed them as well. While the waterproofing was drying I added a transome doubler. This does not come in the kit but a good idea for some added protection. I took a piece of 1/8 light ply and traced the existing transome pattern on to the ply then cut out the doubler and epoxied it in place to the hull using spring clamps. When dry I sanded it flush with the hull.
                          Attached Files
                          www.rockymountainthunderboats.org

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                          • Hydromaniac
                            Senior Member
                            • Oct 2007
                            • 816

                            #43
                            Hatch Opening

                            Next is to prepare the hatch opening. I glued some hard balsa pieces I had on hand between the bulkheads at the hatch opening and sanded them to fit. I did this to increase gluing surface of the deck skins and hatch opening frame pieces. Next I clamped the 1/8 ply strips to the opening and clamped them in place, I traced their shape on to them then cut and sanded them to final shape.
                            Attached Files
                            Last edited by Hydromaniac; 03-23-2010, 10:22 AM.
                            www.rockymountainthunderboats.org

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                            • Hydromaniac
                              Senior Member
                              • Oct 2007
                              • 816

                              #44
                              Now I fit them in to place and clamped the at their correct location,I did the same process for the remaining side and transome. I used one of the provided hatch formers at bulkhead 3. I used masking tape to hold some small spacers in place and masked the frame betwen the opening frame and hatch pieces. This is all clamped in place and tack gued together with medium CA.
                              Attached Files
                              Last edited by Hydromaniac; 03-23-2010, 10:22 AM.
                              www.rockymountainthunderboats.org

                              Comment

                              • Hydromaniac
                                Senior Member
                                • Oct 2007
                                • 816

                                #45
                                Hatch

                                The kit provides several hatch formers. Once I figured my opening sizes and placement I placed the formers where need. I then came back and added the supports, Everything is then glued in place. You can build the hatch as you desire . The instructions and kit will build a flat deck type with a scoop, But it allows for other modifacations as desired. I am building an open engine bay on this one. Enough parts are provided in the kit. Once the famework has dried I removed it from the hull and sanded the hatch to shape with a sanding block and 80 grit sandpaper. I then test fit the hatch skin, I found if I applied the skin in one piece as it is in the kit, I had a slight buckle between the cockpit and engine bay. So I cut the skin in to 3 pieces to allow a good fit. I first glued the center piece in place then came back and trimed and applied the outter 2 skin pieces one at a time. The skins are glued in place with 30 minute epoxy , I clamped each in place and allowed to dry. When dry a simple clean up sanding was done. Here is the engine bay type hatch.
                                Attached Files
                                www.rockymountainthunderboats.org

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