Aeromarine Titan 29 Build

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  • Dragonturbo3
    Member
    • Jul 2007
    • 63

    #1

    Aeromarine Titan 29 Build

    Hello Guys,
    I just bought a Titan 29 Hull off OSE and in an effort to built it right the first time thought I would consult you guys along the way.

    This is what I am hoping to achieve. I am not interested in lightning speed or winning major races. I just want to be somewhat even with my buddies Supervee27(maybe a little faster). His only upgrades are a 3 blade prop, trim tabs, and the extra turn fin. He is running the stock motor and esc and servo. He is also using 4600 matched intellect nihm batteries.

    Here is what I have so far. I ordered the Titan 29 hull and motor mount. I already have an ammo motor that for some reason has no label but I read somewhere that it was the recommended replacement for the Supervee27. I will also be using the Supervee27 ESC a traxxas waterproof servo and 2 7.4 40c lipo batteries.

    I was hoping you guys could help me choose drive hardware and a prop. For drive hardware I almost got the speedmaster mono that is ose, but decided to check first. And I am clueless about props.

    Also if someone can point me to a thread with tips on how to paint a hull. I can do one color no problem, but I kind of want to have a nice looking boat when I am done.

    Thanks and I will make sure to post lots of pictures when I get it.
  • Chilli
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Jan 2008
    • 3070

    #2
    Here is a build thread that includes a Titan 29 I finished for my son a few weeks ago. Excuse the corny graphics. It will give you a idea of the hardware layout. I use as 10XL and it should easily do 40's with long run times on 4S power. Be careful if using the Supervee ESC. The Titan is bigger and heavier than the SV27 so it will draw more amps which could stress out the ESC. Also I don't believe the SV ECS has low voltage cutoff for Lipos. If you run the batteries down too much you can damage them.

    http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...=winter+builds
    Mike Chirillo
    www.capitolrcmodelboats.com

    Comment

    • Dragonturbo3
      Member
      • Jul 2007
      • 63

      #3
      Thanks That helps a lot. And I like the the Dinaco Blue. Are the graphics stickers or painted?

      Comment

      • Chilli
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Jan 2008
        • 3070

        #4
        They are printed vinyl graphics. They are very durable and you don't have to clear coat them.
        Mike Chirillo
        www.capitolrcmodelboats.com

        Comment

        • Jesse J
          scale FE racer
          • Aug 2008
          • 7116

          #5
          where did you have em done?
          "Look good doin' it"
          See the fleet

          Comment

          • Chilli
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Jan 2008
            • 3070

            #6
            Mike Chirillo
            www.capitolrcmodelboats.com

            Comment

            • Dragonturbo3
              Member
              • Jul 2007
              • 63

              #7
              What about prop size? I read your build but I do not remember seeing anything about prop size.

              But you are running a different motor that will probably make a big difference.

              Do you know where the balance point is on the Titan 29?

              Comment

              • Chilli
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Jan 2008
                • 3070

                #8
                Motor does make a difference in what prop you run, I run a M445 and M545 with the 10XL. Once your set on your motor, I'm sure someone will recommend a prop. For CG, I always start at around 33% or in your case 13 inches from the transom. Every setup is different. The faster you go, the more you have to move the CG up. Also, depending on your speed and motor, don't rule out adding a little weight to the boat to keep it on the water. Keep us posted on the build.
                Last edited by Chilli; 02-09-2010, 02:39 PM.
                Mike Chirillo
                www.capitolrcmodelboats.com

                Comment

                • Dragonturbo3
                  Member
                  • Jul 2007
                  • 63

                  #9
                  This is unrelated but I have read that there is information on this forum on laying carbon fiber or fiberglass in an abs hull. Can some one give me a link I have an old catamaran that I would like to use but the abs is molded to only hold certain battery and motor. This would really help my old cat.

                  Thanks
                  Dragon

                  Comment

                  • Brushless55
                    Creator
                    • Oct 2008
                    • 9488

                    #10
                    I have my cog set at 28%
                    more than that, mine runs to wet.
                    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

                    Comment

                    • Dragonturbo3
                      Member
                      • Jul 2007
                      • 63

                      #11
                      I have most of the parts I need but I still need a rudder. Looks like OSE has two that I can choose from, but do I need the 130mm or the 160mm. I was thinking the 130mm but correct me if I am wrong.

                      I am using a speedmaster stinger, and I read somewhere on her that you can cut them down. I also read that I want the rudder in front and as close to as possible to the prop as possible, is this true?

                      Comment

                      • Dragonturbo3
                        Member
                        • Jul 2007
                        • 63

                        #12
                        The hull is being drop shipped from Aeromarine, I guess Steve ran out. Have not gathered all the parts yet anyway.

                        Comment

                        • Dragonturbo3
                          Member
                          • Jul 2007
                          • 63

                          #13
                          I received the hull the other day.

                          Question about what to start first. Should I paint the boat first or install the hardware? Not sure but it seems like a lot of the builds start first with installing the hardware. Is this just in case something gets damaged you do not have to redo the paint scheme.

                          Questions about painting.
                          Is it ok to paint the bottom of the hull? Right now it is all gel coat I believe. Should I be sure to at least clear coat the entire boat? Is there any major prep work that I need to do other than lightly sanding the surface? And do people usually just use paint like Krylon or is there something special I should be looking for?

                          Thanks for the help.

                          Comment

                          • Jesse J
                            scale FE racer
                            • Aug 2008
                            • 7116

                            #14
                            Funny you ask the order I was just thinking about this seconds ago while working on mine, I have done both. BUT, I am electing this time to install all the hardware, get all the man handling and dings and scratches and goo on it now, so when it is all set up, I can strip it down and clean it up nice for the painters.

                            I am NOT painting the bottom of the hull, adds weight and if scuffed, never looks right again.

                            The professional automotive painters I am taking mine to suggested a type of brillo pad you get at the automotive body shop. Said to ruff it up lots so it is super smooth but not glossy anywhere. 'Course painters are SUPER picky. I have not gotten this yet and when I do I will post a picture in my Mini X thread.

                            As for order of hardware installation, I start with the stinger/stuffing tube, then rudder. On the inside, the motor mount (also impacting stuffing tube length/angle) and rudder servo may need to be juggled (as in my case - boat is 6" wide). In the Titan you have a lot more room. BUT think about if you are going to want the batteries in front of the motor or along side.

                            Its best to mount all external hardware so you can place your innards in and have the most accurate idea of where to put stuff for desired COG range (established by battery placement).

                            What rudder did you end up with? I put the 5" er on my Titan and wouldn't go a mm less. Also, don't cut the stinger down, 3" is perfect for the Titan as it will be pretty light at speeds and the longer stinger keeps her from blowing over a little better and in heavy chop.
                            "Look good doin' it"
                            See the fleet

                            Comment

                            • Brushless55
                              Creator
                              • Oct 2008
                              • 9488

                              #15
                              I'm not sure what you call it but my T29 bounces from side to side at full speed and it slows down alot in turns even at full throttle..
                              .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

                              Comment

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